• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권5호
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• pp.27-37
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• 2004

This study was initiated for the purpose of improving the visual effect of lingerie design, and it focused on the image factors and their characteristics of the lingerie design. Images of 105 lingerie design were evaluated by 3-5 images/participant with each image being evaluated 15 times through the SD method 5-scale questionnaire. The lingerie design elements were also analyzed by a committee. For data analysis, SPSS 10.0 program was used, and the principal component analysis, Ward-cluster, K-mean cluster analysis, ANOVA, duncan-test were conducted. The results are as follows: 1) The three major characteristics of the visual images in the lingerie design were aesthetics, dignity, and youth, which were supported 76.78% by the responses. 2) The visual image types can be categorized into four clusters; a dignified style, a sprightly style, a practical style, and a sexual style. 3) The design elements that allowed different design characteristics among the image types were style(one-piece/two-piece), total length, waist fit, matching color, silky lustrous, see-through on waist, hip, race percentages. 4) The ABC(apparel-body-construct) observed that a practical style was perceived as flat and whole rather than a dignified style or a sprightly style, while a sexual style was seen as round and partial.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1140-1151
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• 2009

This study researches the formative character of 1920's fashion through cinema costumes from the perspective of the theories of W$\"{o}$lfilin and Delong. This study organizes a new perspective such as closed form & open form, part recognition & whole recognition, and flat & rounded to analyze the characteristics of form in the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby', 'Chariots of Fire', and 'Chicago'. The 1920's style in the fashion history is a closed form and flat because of simplicity and functionality. The costumes in Chariots of Fire' that focuses on the reappearance of 1920's fashion is a flat and closed form. However, the costumes of 'The Great Gatsby' that presents a symbolic meaning and 'Chicago' that expresses a splendid look are an open and rounded form. Evening dresses are open, with whole recognition and a rounded form because of sheer fabrics, beading, uneven hemlines, and lighting. Daytime dresses are a closed form and flat because of heavyweight fabrics, dark or achromatic colors and non-patterns. Also, open form and rounded, closed form and flat have a similar distribution in diagrams. When the viewer recognizes the form of clothes, they react in a similar way to two-dimensional and three-dimensional presentations that shows that the form of clothes is recognized by the relation with the body. In addition, this study researches the connection between diverse elements such as clothes, body, movements, space, and external elements such as lighting.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2004

This study is regarding closed and open forms, which have relatively high recognition among visual perception phenomena in costumes. In particular, this study reviewed closeness and openness of ethnic look, which is a representative open costume. Closed form can be summarized as simple and clear silhouette, conspicuous differentiation from the background, simple construction of the costume and colors with low brightness and clearness. It Is modern, functional, rational and modest. On the other hand, open form can be summarized as complicated and inconspicuous edge line, complicated inner shape and colors with high brightness, high clearness and vividness. It includes concepts of pleasure, entertainment, joy, eroticism, rebel and resistance. Modern costumes have been simplified for a long time and they have functional and closed characteristics in their shape, structure and form. On the other hand, modern open form costumes are usually found in sub-cultural styles such as punk, hippie, kitsch and vintage, and some ethnic looks. Following is a summary of the characteristics of open form shown in the ethnic look. 1. The shape, structure of costumes, hair accessories, lace, ruffle and ornaments are complicated and irregular. 2. The silhouette is inconspicuous because of ambiguity between backgrounds and ABC (Apparel-Body-Construct) or the use of see-through materials. 3. It makes complicated visual shapes because it does not have a single type but is composed of various clothing items together. 4. It gives complex feelings by matching various colors or more than two different fabrics. 5. It looks like the open type because of the complex patterns shown in the costumes.