• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.77-98
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• 2024

The mourning attire worn by the Sangju (Chief Mourner) during Confucian funeral rituals is known as Gulgeonjebok. It is comprised of Gulgeon, Sujil, and Hyogeon on the head, and Jungui underneath. On top of the Jungui, the ceremonial garments called Choeui are worn, along with Choesang. Yojil and Gyodae are then tied around the waist. Mahye and Hangieon are worn on the feet, and a walking stick made of bamboo, paulownia, or willow is carried. A needlework master, Choe Onsun, who was designated as a Holder of Intangible Cultural Property of Jeollabuk-do on November 27, 1998, is recognized for her efforts in restoring and recreating the forgotten Gulgeonjebok. Thanks to her endeavors, the period, regional, and cultural characteristics of Gulgeonjebok in the Jeolla Province have been preserved. This study aims to examine and reproduce characteristic items of Gulgeonjeboks handed down by a needlework master, Choe, by conducting an empirical study on the dimensions and schematization of the Gulgeon, the method of cutting, and the sewing process. The empirical research on Gulgeojebok is expected to further enhance traditional sewing skills. It will also serve as a foundation for deepening the level of research on traditional dress and sharing traditional cultural heritage.