• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.127-138
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• 2009

This study is about the analysis on symbolic meaning and kunstwollen of Issey Miyake's art works which is influenced by various external factors such as social and cultural background, nationality and philosophy. Especially, this research focused on 'Pleats Please Issey Miyake' and 'A Piece of Cloth' which are the core of his works. The most important concept of Issey Miyake's works is the relationship of human body and a piece of cloth. Miyake's clothes has provided the time and the space where inspires the vitality into wearer. He accomplishes the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Miyake wants to express the emotion of the human being through his clothes and tries to make special code between creator, wearer and viewer. Fashion is accomplished in connection with human body, not exists just as 'clothes'. Fashion has valued as an art which expresses the ideology and the sentiment of human being most directly. Issey Miyake who has tried to express human life and emotion has promoted fashion as an important part of art. Miyake is accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.1-23
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• 1998

The origin and structural development of Do-po have been studied with a consideration of the back piece of Do-po in this paper. This study found that Do-po was in this paper. This study found that Do-po was originally imported from China. This paper reports that an earlier record on Do-po is found in an epitaph(1564) than the record found in S njoSilnok(1607) which is conventionally known as the earliest record on Do-po. The structure of Do-po has been widely known as an“attachment of J n-sam”on slitted back piece of the outwear. However, this study shows that Do-po has been formed by inserting the gusset of the front piece into the back piece of the outwear Jik-nyung. This change can be considered as the economical and practical needs to save the cloth or by the aethetical need of simpler clothing. This study also classifies the shape of gussets largely into nine classes according to the temporal development in the shape of gussets.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.111-123
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• 2009

This study is to explore the usability of a pattern making software 'Looks tailor X' developed recently by the Digital Fashion in line with the cloth simulation software 'DressingSim'. When the software engineers develop software for clothes and clothing simulations, most often they lose touch of real-world craftsmanship of pattern making. As such, the software evaluation of the functionality and the usability is a crucial step in the field of virtual clothing. We carried out a detailed evaluation of the software via the process of making some basic types of pattern including tight skirts, pants, jackets, and one-piece dress. In this paper, we documented a step-by-step scenarios of making clothes using the Looks tailor X, and listed both the advantages and limitations of the software from the perspective of an enduser, i.e., a professional fashion designer. We also briefed suggestions on the refinement of the future software in the field.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.80-91
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine how he successfully connected his ideas of fashion design for art with the commerciality without a conflict about for 40 years. It is expected that this study will be a precedent in the aspect of the symmetry between artistry and commercialization in Issey Miyake's works. We will examine Issey Miyake's idea of fashion design and its development for the commercialization since 1970s that he started to give shape to his ideas in the fashion works to exactly commercialize in the market. 1. Re-creation of tradition(a piece of cloth): throughout the 1970s, Miyake continued to experiment with a variety of Eastern design elements. The elements of Japanese or oriental tradition made him to be at the very center of supreme of the world of fashion. He took advantages of his identity, and developed the tradition for mass produce. 2. Design for mass(Pleats Please): Miyake decided to make clothes for the people, not only for the top class of the society. This thought developed the designs for the mass, which were functional, universal for the modem buyer, and accessible to a wide market. He realized his ideal by the medium of pleats, which were made through industrial processes, while he tried variously the aspect of formative of the pleats in the collections. His designs concept is summarized by the industrial product design and anonymous design. 3. Innovation of manufacturing system(A-POC): Miyake in 1999 developed A-POC. A-POC is used modern computers in conjunction with traditional technology. A-POC does not make only a new cloth but also makes a new manufacturing system of clothes.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.14
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• pp.94-108
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• 1993

The cultural properties of cloth are of animal orgin (silk), or of vegetable orgin(cotton, hemp, ramie). As clothes are of an orginic material, they were subjected to damage by chemical, phisigical or biological factors, viz, moulds insects, lights, humidity and temperature changes, etc. And these factors promote that clothes generally result from various types of deterioration. In 1992, We were performed the conservation treatments for total 9 pieces of cloth, such as 3 pieces of General PAK SHIN-RYONG(Important Folklore Material No.110) 3 pieces of Madam Jung(Important Folklore Material No.115) and 1 piece of King Se-jo(Important Folklore Material No.219). The procedure of the conservation treatment for clothes describe the following below. 1) The washing and dry-cleaning to remove the contaminated substances from cloth was used 0.2% stearyl potassium soap solution and the mixture solution compound of n-Hexane, C6H14. and n-Decane, C10H22. And after the washing and dry-cleaning, the dry of clothes was carried out in a warm condition. These steps were repeated in 2 times over for each cloth. 2) The repair of clothes was attached the similar textiles to stronger fabric linings by needlework.3) The reprodution was made for cloth of King Se-jo to equalize the type, color, quality and skill of materials. 4) After these above procedures, all clothes fumigated to prevent the biodeterioration by using the mixed gas of methyl bromide and ethylene oxide as insecticide and fungicide. 5) Finally for the purpose to keep in a safety long-term condition, the treated clothes sealed with Biaxially Oriented Polyvinylacohol Film(BO-PVA film) and Helium, purity 99.999%, filled up in sealed BO-PVA film bag.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.400-411
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• 2012

This study analyzes the formative changes and trends of cape design in modern fashion. In this study, a total of 496 cape designs were collected through the four major fashion collections of Paris, Milan, New York, and London from 2006S/S to 2010F/W, and a literature overview on capes was performed. The results of this study show that the cases with collars and hoods attached outnumbered the non-collared designs. In addition, the cases of lengthy cape in the hip or knee line represent more portions in designs. As to the material, it indicated that generic cloth was used the most. In most cases, decorations with various details and trimmings were also used. For expression characteristics, cases only with unique texture to cloth material and formative beauty were the most remarkable without decoration. For the formative feature, the independent item style was found the most, even though it was worn together with other kinds of clothing. Integration with other types also appeared such as cape jacket, cape dress, cape one-piece, or cape coat. Cape design features in contemporary fashion and could be characterized as feministic elegancy, harmony of practical value and fashion, authoritativeness, and decorativeness from the design trend analysis.

• Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.593-598
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• 1997

The changes of tissue structure in timothy and alfalfa during ensiling process with silage additives; lactic acid bacteria, cellulase and formic acid, were observed with a video microscope. Stem samples were obtained from the second internode, and cut to divide into 2 pieces. One piece was for observation of ensiled material and the other was for silage. The latter piece was put into a nylon cloth bag, and ensiled with grass for 50 days in a small experimental silo Lignification of the plant tissues was checked by acid phloroglucinol. Natural silage fermentation resulted in some degradation of less lignified parenchyma in both plant species. However, lignified sclerenchyma and vascular bundles remained intact. The cellulase enhanced the degradation of parenchyma tissue, while the formic acid suppressed the degradation. The effect of lactobacillus was small. The percentage of remained cross sectional area of stem and the loss of NDF and ADF by silage fermentation confirmed the observation. High negative correlations were obtained between the remained area and loss of fibrous components during silage fermentation in both plants, and between the loss of fibrous components and in vitro dry matter digestibility in timothy but not in alfalfa.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2008

This study is aiming to set a characteristic design and a fashion trend by analyzing hat style trends and fashion images shown in fashion collections in recent seven years. Also, based on the result of the analysis on the five world's major collections, the influence and the interrelation of hat and fashion image were analyzed. The study was performed by the context analysis method and the image evaluation method. In the context analysis method, the 1,391 pictures for hat-styles which were believed to be the standard of fashion style from the S/S season of 1998 to the F/W season of 2004 were analyzed. The research is summarized as follows. Based on the result of the fashion collections, the kinds of hats came Bowler, Beret, Cloche, Capeline, Cap and Hood in order, and Casual, Feminine, Natural, Formal, Romantic, and Mannish came in order for the case of the fashion images for putting on a hat. The result of the analysis on the characteristic of fashion design according to the kinds of hats, the casual image, with highest frequency, was found from all of the kinds except Capeline. Bowler and Cloche were conspicuous in jackets/slacks, Capeline was conspicuous in one-piece shape, and cloth silhouette showed the highest frequency in H type. As for Bowler, the color of cloth and hat was mostly black, and as for Beret and Cloche, achromatic color showed the highest frequency. But as for Capeline, the cloth color, including chromatic color, was various. As for Beret, pattern and material image were various comparatively, but as for other kinds of hats, there were the materials with no pattern and with hard material image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.113-124
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• 2018

This study is to find ways to use fast-fashion wedding dresses continuously which usually have worn three or four times and just wasted, which is an current interesting issue over the society. Among clothing from the 19th Century, three styles of Empire, and Crinoline were analyzed from their underwear styles to outwear styles through library and museums and are made for rental service. Based on 8-year-old girls' physical dimensions, openings and closing methods of each size were applied to develop and make rental dress designs. It will be a good opportunity to study history and develop creativity if children can try different styles of dresses from different cultures and times and also experience difference wearing ways as they also have such desire. Underwears were designed to be worn by adjusting cloth rings, rubber bands, or hook and eye to fit different dimensions. The final products are as follows. First, empire dress doesn't need underwear to wear. Depending on the purpose of the rental dress, the back side of upper clothes have lace up by using cloth rings like empire style. Skirt was cut to use hem lace suitably from wasted dress. Second, Crinoline dress is usually configured of Crinoline, Petticoat, Two Piece on Drawers, Chemise, and Corset. It was designed by flat front, bigger sides and backs by Crinoline and Petticoat.