• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.68-91
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to create modern patterns based on considering the types and design elements of Joseon hwapo patterns containing Korean identity, and to develop costume designs by applying design elements of traditional Korean dress, Hanbok. These designs combine traditional costumes with modern sensibility using the attribute listing method, and present them using a 3D virtual clothing program. Through this, it is meaningful as it organizes data on Joseon hwapo patterns, which were rarely dealt with in the traditional Korean costume research, and it is also of research value as it is a work that utilizes Joseon hwapo patterns as a new source of fashion design development. As a research method, literature research was conducted based on the documents, 'Nabeshima-sarasa hidensho', 'Nabeshima-sarasa mihoncho', and 'Zoho kafu benran', which are related to Joseon hwapo remaining in Japan. Based on the literature research, research was performed by creating pattern design and costume design using the attribute listing method, and 3D virtual clothing. Traditional Korean costumes used in design development in this study were saekdong-jeogori, dolddi-jeogori, magoja, hongjangsam, durumagi, jungdan, gollyongpo, jeogui, breast band, mujigi-chima, chima, and baji. Further, accessories used in each costume, such as pyeseul, daedae, hapi, and jeonhaeng-utchima, and features of configurations, such as yongbo, chest ribbons, band hem, gusset, collar and dongjung, heorimalgi, neckline, and sapok line, were used for design development.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.116-137
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop jacket patterns that could fit well for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome body shape and to present a pattern drafting method. As a research method, an educational pattern was chosen through a preliminary experiment. Fit problems of the educational pattern were derived by wearing it on a virtual model with a turtle neck syndrome body type for each neck angle. Based on the three types of experimental patterns developed by supplementing these problems, a development pattern drafting method was developed for each neck angle. Three development patterns were compared and evaluated with the educational pattern using 3D virtual fitting. Fit problems of the educational pattern included: 1) insufficient ease amounts for hip, hem, bicep, elbow, and sleeve hem circumference; 2) horizontal items could not be leveled due to insufficient back length; 3) the shoulder line went backwards; and 4) the front center line did not form a vertical line. To solve these problems, an experimental pattern was developed by increasing the insufficient ease amount, increasing the insufficient back length, and correcting the position of the shoulder line. Measurements that differed in the pattern drafting method of the three types of development patterns by neck angle were positions of back center line and back neck point, front length, and front neck width. Through appearance evaluation of the development pattern and educational pattern by neck angle, the development pattern was highly evaluated, indicating that problems of the educational pattern were improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.940-951
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• 2012

This study evaluates the fit preference of the tailored jacket according to body types for 20's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point fit evaluation scale utilizing a wearer acceptability scale by Shen and Huck was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. This scale contained 23 items in three categories: front fit, back fit, and side fit. For each item, 5 responses from 'too tight' fit (1 point) to 'too loose' fit (5 point) were possible. The middle position for each fit criterion indicated a 'good' fit (3 point). The data were analyzed with a t-test using statistical program SPSS 17.0. According to the results, there were no significant differences ($p{\leq}.05$) between the real and virtual fit preference in total measurement items such as front collar, lapel and roll line, front shoulder slope, front armhole, front waist, abdomen, sideseam, hemline, front silhouette, side shoulder, side armhole, side sleeve width, side hip, side silhouette, back collar stand, upper back, back armhole, back waist, back hip, back silhouette except front bust, side waist, and back center back. The factor that caused a difference in the fit preference between the real and virtual fit evaluation was a specific body type such as Body Type A that indicated a small bust circumference and a big hip circumference.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.144-158
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a bodice block suitable for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome. The problem of turtle neck syndrome body type was derived through the evaluation of bodice blocks. First, the length of the front bodice was longer and the length of the back bodice was shorter. Second, the front neck point, back neck point, and the shoulder line were not in place. Third, the side neck was pushed up. Fourth, the length of armhole was long and it floated. Fifth, the front hem was attached to the body and the back hem was away from the body. A finally developed pattern was designed by developing four test patterns to solve the problem that appeared in a selected bodice pattern, and a t-test was conducted to determine the difference in the appearance evaluation by virtual clothing between the two patterns, bodice block and the development pattern. According to the result, the fit was not good from the side body because the position of the side neck point was not in a place due to the characteristics of the body shape of turtle neck syndrome, but the problems of the anterior neck position, the position of the back neck point, the shoulder line position, and the armhole shape were improved in the developed pattern.