• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.369-392
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• 1998

In order to identify and describe the central core of fashion desire, the concept of“anti-aesthetics”and“open fashion”were analyzed based on the discourses of postmodernism dis-cussed in the field of sociology, culture, art and philosophy. In this paper, first, the new perspectives of fashion related to modernism and postmodernism were proposed, open concept, anti-aesthet-ics which is ephemerality but eternal ideology. Key principles of postmodernism as anti-aess-thetics mean the philosophy of nihilism proposed by Nietzsche indeterminency, the endd of original art(the death of art), the sublimity provided by Lyotard, and the pluralism to release human from the closed way of thinking, value, ideology. Second, the old and classical definition of fashion,“the differentiation of class”proposed by Veblen and Simmel has been changed into the“differentiation of taste”in postmodern condition. Third, the dichotomous system, that is, ration vs emotion, soul vs body, male vs female, culture vs nature, and so on has been deconstructed and disolved in the postmodern fashion phenomenon using the technique of anti-formalism, such as pastich, parody, bricolage an kitsch for the expression of sublimity and freedom of human.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.62-75
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the color and color coordinations and their aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs from 1996 to 2000. The research data were gathered from Vogue and Collezioni Donna from this period. Total of 1004 works were collected and used for this study. The results were summarized as follows. In the colors of the military look, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest quantity, which indicates that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors since 1996, and this influence was reflected in the military look. In terms of color coordination, monochromatic coordination accounted for 52.7% of the military look, through which it could be presumed that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image of the military designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.85-96
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• 2000

The study is aimed to analyse social and cultural background and to compare the changes of the cosmetic culture in Korea and the western countries accompanied by the developemnt os the cosmetic industry in the 20th century. The cosmetic culture of Korea has kept on changing adopting the new western style make up, These changes were very closely related with the current sociocultural environments and the developments of the cosmetic industry. The analysis and comparison of Korean cosmetic culture and that of Western countries can be summarized as following: Fistly the cosmetic culture of korea came out after Korean War through the improt of western movies. Secondly at the beginning of accommodation of the western concept of beauty the standards of beauty were confused with that of traditional make up. Thirdly in terms of the history of costumes in the western cosmetic culture the trend was feminine and curve lineal style in the 1910s straight and young style in the 1920s Young elegant curve lineal style and straight-line style replaced among themselves in every 10 years and the cycle became more rapid after the 1970s and there were diversity in the cosmetic culture affected by the postmodernism Fourthly the cosmetic culture of :total fashion" was taken into consideration. Fifthly the cosmetic culture of "total fashion" was taken into consideration. fifthly the make up of Korean and that of western countries are not only a way to express of aesthetic desire for beauty but sanitary management and it is a kind of an expansion of value for management for an inner self. Now is the time to refuse the attitude of accommodation of the western cosmetic culture without any consideration. We need to rediscover our traditional cosmetic culture and cultural distinctiveness and try to mix them with the western cosmetic culture in order to develop our own peculiar style which will be able to Korean design remain in the international stage and grow further.d grow further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.98-111
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• 2006

The objective of this research is to examine the commonness and differences of Korean, Chinese and Japanese costume colors of modern and present ages. The result of this study showed that modern China and Japan had quick influx speed of Western culture. Dissimilarly, modern Korea kept conception of colors from Chosun periods that show the high frequency of 'Five Elements Colors' and neutral colors in Red, Yellow and Purple Blue. Today, the costumes of China, Korea and Japan use similar tones of color but each country approached in different selections of achromatic colors; Korean prefers color in Yellow Red, Purple, and Chinese in Green Yellow, Green and Japanese in Purple Blue. Light greyish and pale toned Yellow Red and grayish tone have increased in modern Chinese and Japanese costumes. Also both countries have corresponding assumptions in using color of Red in strong tone. The analysis of color and tone distribution showed that, Japanese costume colors in modern and present times have correlative number of use as in Western culture. Traditionally, Japan has least notion of using 'Five Elements Colors' which only gives minor changes by convergence of Western color culture. In other side, China had developed in color rather than tone compares to Korea and Japan by using many of the Red color of strong, vivid and deep tones which made red distinguishing color of China. Japan continues to use of low chroma colors and became a characteristic in modern and present day, also they use an abundance of color in Yellow Red, purple Blue. Korea has a higher frequency showing in light, bright tones of color distinctively compares to China and Japan.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.15-33
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• 2011

The late $19^{th}$ and early $20^{th}$ centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (牲理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as "the force which drives people into a particular social order". Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state. Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the notion of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans' passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives' Hanbok (韓服) and progressives' Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by "Colored Clothing" (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷髮) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a "Modern Nation". With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910, and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced. During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly "White Clothing (白衣)", emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due to Japan's coercive power and strong zeal for "Great orient (大東亞)", white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformists (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger. Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were different although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.7
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• pp.828-840
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• 2011

Fine art and clothes have been closely connected since art became part of civilization. However, there relationship was one-sided rather than exchanging the essence of each other. In the $20^{th}$ century, modern art began to change. Artists started intervening clothes in their work as conceptual tools. In the 1960s, Marcel Duchamp started to study 'what is fine art?' He tried to perform anti-aesthetic work that denies traditional types and contents of fine art by reconsidering a concept of fine art that started a new chapter of conceptual art in the late $20^{th}$ century. Conceptual art is about concepts and ideas of the work rather than aesthetic and material concerns for the challenges traditional ideas. Conceptual art asks audiences for more active reactions. For these reasons, semi logical ideas and clothes became very important to conceptual art. This study categorizes and analyzes various roles of clothes in conceptual art. Conceptual arts since 1960 were studied in this research and the works of clothes were intervened were analyzed. The types of using clothes in conceptual art can be divided into 'ready made,' 'intervention,' 'data type,' 'language,' and 'action and process.' The different types were mixed together rather than used alone. Conceptual artists tried to deliver the characteristics and attributions of modern society through clothes. They expressed criticism of political society, anti war movements, absence caused by death, new lives, violated femininity, changed meanings of marriage, and absence of individual rights under the social system in their work. Clothes played their roles as concepts of various things including violated femininity, illusions of politicians, autocracy, new lives, social systems, and regulations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.407-423
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.263-276
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• 1994

The achievement of notable social reoforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries needlessly speaking remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns such as :1) high industrialization 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly the industrial world of the but-tons too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced, The design (incused design) used in the 19-20h centuries are : men landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, tec, 1, The classification o f the buttons by materials Techniques shapes colors marking (Incused design) used in the productionof buttons in the England United States of America Laska Italy france Denmark Japan and India are categolizzed as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Matal Enamel Iodine Agate, Coral, Green jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and bone etc. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button in-dustries are : Artificial jewell glass Acrylic material Styroform Celluloid and Nylon etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work inlay work precision casting press mosic dye etching, processing, engraving and embossed carving etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons in -dustries are : Round shape however elliptical column angular and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design(incused design) on the buttons are embodiment and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination abstractive with has offers much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the in-dustrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense ideology and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for dress how-ever the buttons beyond from this role of function now a days. 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of he button beyond from this role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape materials colors 2) technique locations size and design (incused design) 3) The ramaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area such as matchs with the color of garment of contrast with brigtness of colors contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting press handcraft inlay work etching mosic etc,. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses location can be de-termined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits, However the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence rhythm contrast harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role : Since the button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations political background cultural as-pect etc. on the buttons. The design of buttons in the western circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanis and handcraft. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the but-tons however materials used in the buttons are : Bone of livestocks ivory, turtle shell are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly the level of buttons indus-try of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of western circles. It is highly suggested therefore the but-tons industrial field of Republic of Korea shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.51-74
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• 2015

The purpose of this exploratory research is to study Cashin's fashion philosophy and to draw her design characteristics through analysis of her work. As a result of this research, 76 garment pieces were selected from the 180 Bonnie Cashin collections at the University of Cincinnati to document and evaluate. The final selection includes: sixteen jackets, fifteen skirts, five pants, five tops, seven dresses, twenty five coats, and three capes. Bonnie Cashin specialized in practical and functional; yet innovative designs such as leather trimmed tweed Jackets/coats, canvas raincoats, suede leather coats, and ponchos. Her trademark elements include toggle closures, oversized pockets, her Noh coats, tweed suits, canvas raincoats, fringed suede dresses, funnel neck pullovers, jersey dresses, and ponchos. She emphasized function and comfort and she believed that a good design must also be practical. The examination of these 76 pieces from the University of Cincinnati's private Bonnie Cashin Collection brings to light Bonnie Cashin's creative design and what she represented in the development of American fashion design in the $20^{th}$ century.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.41-54
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• 2010

This paper aims at studying about spatial structures and formative characteristics of Lucy Orta's fashion design. Her works utilizes the thought related on the architectural space that has been revealed sharp change of the paradigm since the late of 20th century. Lucy Orta against individualism of the urban life, and manufactures portable and moving housing and multi-functional fashion that is paved with individual rest unit and give a sense of security through simple combination among the units. Besides, she has development multiple portable clothing and equipments for the rescuethrough exploiting pioneering high technology. The results of this study can be summarized as the following: 1) refuge habitant creates individual space for physical and mental protection from the urban surrounding, 2) nomadic dwelling shows multi-functional fashion space fit for digital nomads' life style aims at continuous movement, 3) connective nexus and urban life guard are comprise of detachable individual unit in public space for remaking of the bonds, affinity, and relationship, and the complex of rescue clothing and equipments for meeting a challenge of the threat about human existence from uncertain environmental change in the future.