The purpose of this research is to analyze the morphological relationship between changes hair styles and changes in necklines and collars in 20th century fashion. After selecting the representative plate by each age for this study, the neckline, collar, and formative relevancy of hair style according to it have been analyzed by measuring the neckline, collar, and the width and height item of each hair style. The results of this study show- that the width changes of necklines and collars were mostly proportional in relation to each other, but the width changes of collars and hair styles were inversely proportional. While the amplitude of necklines and collars' width change was very broad, the amplitude of some hair style's height change was very broad. Regarding width, this result had similar results of the researcher's former research, the relation according to the width of necklines, collars and hair style from 16th century to 19th century. However, regarding height, this result was different from the preceding research in that the amplitude of hair style and collars' height change was very broad between 16th and 19th centuries, but the amplitude of neckline's height change is relatively small. This means various heights of necklines appeared in the 20th century, but more various heights of collars were shown between the 16th and 19th centuries. This research hopes to be helpful by predicting trends in fashion, and to be basic resources to understand the systemic relationship of these factors.
Until the late 19th century, $\ulcorner$Gagogwonryu(歌曲源流)$\lrcorner$ was a collection of songs which had powerful influence on Gagog tradition. However, its role on Gagog(歌曲) tradition since then is less well known. Generally, it is presumed that Gagog tradition might disappeared by giving way to modern song genre. So this article question that $\ulcorner$Gagogwonryu$\lrcorner$ became extinct rapidly between the late 19th century and early 20th century, and follow $\ulcorner$Gagogwonryu$\lrcorner$ tradition of early 20th century. Gagog instruction for beginner had a clue to answer this question. This instruction was written by Ha Son-il(河順一) who was a teacher and singer in a private music institute. named 'ChoyangGurakbu(調陽俱樂部). Accordingly, this article has processed two phases in order to find out this question. First of all, this article analyzed Gagog instruction that Ha soon-il edited. As a result, it found out that Gagog instruction included the whole $\ulcorner$Gagogwonryu$\lrcorner$'s contents in the 19th century and was transmitted actively until the early 20th century. Second, this article found out $\ulcorner$Gagogwonryu$\lrcorner$ tradition of the early 20th century by analyzing character of ChoyangGurakbu. And also this article discovered ChoyangGurakbu had been managed by an vigorous aid association. Gagog instruction for beginner written by Ha Son-il had spreaded from strength to strength in the early 20th century.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.32
no.10
/
pp.1619-1628
/
2008
The aim of this study was to compare and contrast the changes in wedding coordination between the end of 20th and the beginning 21st centuries. one wedding magazine was selected and used to supply data. four hundred and thirty one wedding photos were examined from a popular wedding magazine called "My Wedding", issued between 1993 and 2007. the results are described below. First, changes in make-up and hair style: from the end of 20th to the beginning of 21 st centuries, the style of make-up changed from being exaggerated with strong colors which made the typical brides make-up to utilizing the minimal color selection which made natural-looking. the hair style has also changed from up style to natural hair style. Second, changes in wedding gowns: the style of wedding gowns changed from the shapes of X line which was to cover the body figure of bride to simple shapes such as an strapless and fish-tail style of gowns. Third, changes in wedding jewelry and accessories: hair pieces consisted of large flower crowns and hair bands with flowers in the end of 20th century. the various sizes and colors of tiaras and crowns were popular in the beginning of 21 st century. for wedding accessories, large shapes of earrings and necklaces were popular at the end of 20th century, whereas various size and styles were more fashionable later on. in conclusion, brides in the beginning of 21 st century prefer to wear sexy or alluring dresses with natural hair styles and make-up, in contrast to the classic or traditional wedding outfits that were more popular at the end of 20th century.
Embroidery is one of the oldest methods of textiles surface decoration. The masterpiece "Tapisserie de Bayeux," is one of the earliest Medieval embroideries. Embroidery was popular on a broad scale with introduction of what was called Opus Anglicanum("English work") in the 13th century. France had been producing sophisticated embroideries since the 16th century. England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th century. Until the 17th century, the Church was the most important patron of needlework. Then a shift in emphasis occurred towards the domestic embroidery. English 17th century domestic embroidery reached a high point of technical brilliance and charm. In France, embroidery was produced on hangings as well as costume. 18th century interest in embellishing the domestic environment, embroideries became much more finely detailed than those of the 17th century with the use of finer wool and silk threads. French silk were the finest in the world, and their embroidery was arguably equally fine both in furnishing textiles and on costumes. "Art Needlework" was the major movement in embroidery in the late 19th century. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, followed by similar institutions around Britan. Splendid fashion embroidery of French haut-couture that was represented to Lesage atelier in 20th century.
This study is concerned with the process of development and architectural characteristics of secular stained glass in the 20th century. Stained glass had been architectural art from the origin. But it had declined since the Renaissance era, and began to revive in the early 20th century. Stained glass work is very flourish in Korea today, but it is still treated as simple decoration or 2-dimensional mosaic. Architect and interior designer even have little understanding of architectural character of stained glass. In order to recover the architectural nature of stained glass, I have considered the process of development of secular stained glass in the 20th century, and analysed the works of Frank Lloyd Wright, the postwar German artists, Georg Meistermann, Ludwig Schaffrath, Johannes Schreiter, and English artist, Brian Clarke. Major findings of the study are as followings : First, stained glass has come to life again from the secular glass painting decoration in the end of the 19th century, through Art-Nouveau, De Stil, Bauhaus in the beginning of the 20th century, and L'Art $Sacr\acute{e}$. Second, Frank Lloyd Wright, the postwar German artists and Brian Clarke have established the architectural concept and potentiality of the modem stained glass in the secular field. Third, They have done by coming back to the basic creative method by traditional lead-came technique in spite of the development of various materials and techniques. Forth, stained glass fundamentally has architectural characteristics as the characters of Space, Time, Place, Context, and they have showed the new possibility of stained glass by recovery of these characters.
There are three kinds of books written by different authors in different regions in the 19th century. These books include "BonChoYuHam (本草類函)" (1833), "BonChoBuBangPyeonRam (本草附方便覽)" (1855) and "BonChoBang (本草方)" (1860?). However, these books are very similar in terms of content and format. They were written in the format of large medical books and they contained prescriptions made up with 1-2 kinds of herbals depending on diseases. These three books which could not affect each other appear to have these commons. The reason is that these books were newly edited based on Bubang (附方) in "BenChaoGangMu" depending on diseases and "BenChaoWanFangZhenXien" (1712) written by Cai, lie Xian (蔡烈先) was used as the reference. Woodblock printed book of "BenChaoGangMu" viewed by medical practitioners in Joseon Dynasty in the 19th century mostly had "BonChoManBangChimSun" which could be called '"BenChaoGangMu" Bubang index' as the appendix. All authors of three books tried to make 'reorganization of "BenChaoGangMu"' by using "BonChoManBangChimSun" as the important reference. Work of 'reorganization of "BenChaoGangMu"' focusing on symptoms being made in the 19th century was made a few times in the 20th century. "YangMuSinPyeon" and "SuSeBiGyeol" published in 1928 were outcomes of these works in the 20th century. 'Reorganization of "BenChaoGangMu"' being made in 19th-20th centuries showed great interest for "BenChaoGangMu" in the medical community in the late Joseon Dynasty. In addition, the practical scholarship of Joseon Dynasty gave "BenChaoGangMu" the value as the collection of prescriptions rather than the concept of book for herbal medicine. Prescriptions of reorganized "BenChaoGangMu" have been spread out to many books in the late Joseon Dynasty. Thus, the impact of "BenChaoGangMu" on society in the late Joseon Dynasty seems to be much larger than what has been known so far.
The space has been interpreted from various perspectives, such as hierarchical, cultural, economic, political factors, etc. So we can see the space as a social existence. Space is now being formed through the dialectical relations of these elements. From this point of view, this study started to research the spatial practice of morden people through the case in the early 20th century film. With the discourse of Henri Lefebvre and David Harvey, and Michel de Certeau's theory, this research tried to find the mechanisms of spatial practice. Also Benjamin is a philosopher who intervenes the relationship between modernity and cultural production and his way of reading cultural phenomena seems to serve as the useful methodology of cultural studies. Modern people were individual unawared of the era, awakened to the ego. They were wandering the room and the street, private and public places. They were city dwellers walking around, collecting goods, and living of everyday life. Spatial practice is a fixed activity and have continuity. spatial practice appeared in the early 20th century film is at the intersection of social practices and the practice of everyday life. Social practices are a fixed practice and continuous practice. The practices of everyday life are nomadic practice and amusable practice. Modern people accommodate and adapt to a given space of the city through fixed practice. They realizes the access and the distance from spaces through continuous practice. They select and approved the spaces through nomadic practice. And they possess exclusively and utilize the spaces through amusable practice. Through These research spatial practices, it could easily found similarities and differences between modern space on the early 20th century and contemporary space of 21st century. True modern is not the past but the present.
Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
/
2003.10a
/
pp.45-45
/
2003
The purpose of the study is to find out megatrends and design trend through the analysis of the influential factors on trend and various fields of design trend in the late 20th century. Further, it is to establish database to prospect the design trends of the 21th century by analyzing and estimating the design color trend.
Purpose: Since the 19th century many concrete models and theories for the ideal city had been proposed and in some way had affected on the ideal urban plans in the 20th century. Modern cities in the 20th century faced a total chaos, due to the world war and new social paradigm came from the development of technology. These social context leads us to be interested in ideal city. And two planned cities; Chandigarh, India and Brasilia, Brasil, are meaningful as the result of the modern ideal city in the early 20th century even though they completed just in part. Method: This study is focused on the characteristics of the modern ideal city in the early 20th century based on comparison with two realized cities. There are similarities and differences in their background, concept, and the characteristics of form and space. Result: First, both cities are required to make monumental and symbolic images by political issues. For this, Le Corbusier proposed the grid system for a metaphorical city and L. Costa defined the urban form with abstract axis for a mythological city. Second, the administrative districts in both cities are planned as symbolic places by formative buildings and their hierarchical arrangement. For neighbourhood unit 'Sector' in Chandigarh and 'Superquadras' in Brasilia are used for the neighbourhood unit respectively. Third, the car-oriented road system and urban environment by population overcrowding in tow cities are criticized in common. Consequently, as we can see, the modern ideal city in the early 20th century succeeds in making symbolic urban image, but exposes the limitation of sustainability.
Underwear has undertaken the auxiliary role of outwear also. Thus, as outwear has changed forming the characteristic mode in every period, underwear has changed endlessly, so that it may match the form and function of outwear, in accordance with the stream of period. In this study, this researcher examined hoop and petticoat which were used for widening the skirt which is female clothes with diverse names in every period. under one name which is farthingale, centering around the West and korea, from 16th century to 20th century(the first term). In addition, it examined by comparison the relevancy between to the history and change factor of underwear which was used for swelling the skirt in Korean clothes. The result to have studied on the history and change factor about the farthingale of West and Korea is as follows: This study found that the silhouette of women's clothing has a strong relationship with underwear. Also The result to compare the underskirt of the West with that of Korea is as follows : They has other character, but in 18th century, being compared the underskirt of the West with that of Korea, for the swelling of skirt, this study found that they had something in common with the underskirt of the West and Korea.
본 웹사이트에 게시된 이메일 주소가 전자우편 수집 프로그램이나
그 밖의 기술적 장치를 이용하여 무단으로 수집되는 것을 거부하며,
이를 위반시 정보통신망법에 의해 형사 처벌됨을 유념하시기 바랍니다.
[게시일 2004년 10월 1일]
이용약관
제 1 장 총칙
제 1 조 (목적)
이 이용약관은 KoreaScience 홈페이지(이하 “당 사이트”)에서 제공하는 인터넷 서비스(이하 '서비스')의 가입조건 및 이용에 관한 제반 사항과 기타 필요한 사항을 구체적으로 규정함을 목적으로 합니다.
제 2 조 (용어의 정의)
① "이용자"라 함은 당 사이트에 접속하여 이 약관에 따라 당 사이트가 제공하는 서비스를 받는 회원 및 비회원을
말합니다.
② "회원"이라 함은 서비스를 이용하기 위하여 당 사이트에 개인정보를 제공하여 아이디(ID)와 비밀번호를 부여
받은 자를 말합니다.
③ "회원 아이디(ID)"라 함은 회원의 식별 및 서비스 이용을 위하여 자신이 선정한 문자 및 숫자의 조합을
말합니다.
④ "비밀번호(패스워드)"라 함은 회원이 자신의 비밀보호를 위하여 선정한 문자 및 숫자의 조합을 말합니다.
제 3 조 (이용약관의 효력 및 변경)
① 이 약관은 당 사이트에 게시하거나 기타의 방법으로 회원에게 공지함으로써 효력이 발생합니다.
② 당 사이트는 이 약관을 개정할 경우에 적용일자 및 개정사유를 명시하여 현행 약관과 함께 당 사이트의
초기화면에 그 적용일자 7일 이전부터 적용일자 전일까지 공지합니다. 다만, 회원에게 불리하게 약관내용을
변경하는 경우에는 최소한 30일 이상의 사전 유예기간을 두고 공지합니다. 이 경우 당 사이트는 개정 전
내용과 개정 후 내용을 명확하게 비교하여 이용자가 알기 쉽도록 표시합니다.
제 4 조(약관 외 준칙)
① 이 약관은 당 사이트가 제공하는 서비스에 관한 이용안내와 함께 적용됩니다.
② 이 약관에 명시되지 아니한 사항은 관계법령의 규정이 적용됩니다.
제 2 장 이용계약의 체결
제 5 조 (이용계약의 성립 등)
① 이용계약은 이용고객이 당 사이트가 정한 약관에 「동의합니다」를 선택하고, 당 사이트가 정한
온라인신청양식을 작성하여 서비스 이용을 신청한 후, 당 사이트가 이를 승낙함으로써 성립합니다.
② 제1항의 승낙은 당 사이트가 제공하는 과학기술정보검색, 맞춤정보, 서지정보 등 다른 서비스의 이용승낙을
포함합니다.
제 6 조 (회원가입)
서비스를 이용하고자 하는 고객은 당 사이트에서 정한 회원가입양식에 개인정보를 기재하여 가입을 하여야 합니다.
제 7 조 (개인정보의 보호 및 사용)
당 사이트는 관계법령이 정하는 바에 따라 회원 등록정보를 포함한 회원의 개인정보를 보호하기 위해 노력합니다. 회원 개인정보의 보호 및 사용에 대해서는 관련법령 및 당 사이트의 개인정보 보호정책이 적용됩니다.
제 8 조 (이용 신청의 승낙과 제한)
① 당 사이트는 제6조의 규정에 의한 이용신청고객에 대하여 서비스 이용을 승낙합니다.
② 당 사이트는 아래사항에 해당하는 경우에 대해서 승낙하지 아니 합니다.
- 이용계약 신청서의 내용을 허위로 기재한 경우
- 기타 규정한 제반사항을 위반하며 신청하는 경우
제 9 조 (회원 ID 부여 및 변경 등)
① 당 사이트는 이용고객에 대하여 약관에 정하는 바에 따라 자신이 선정한 회원 ID를 부여합니다.
② 회원 ID는 원칙적으로 변경이 불가하며 부득이한 사유로 인하여 변경 하고자 하는 경우에는 해당 ID를
해지하고 재가입해야 합니다.
③ 기타 회원 개인정보 관리 및 변경 등에 관한 사항은 서비스별 안내에 정하는 바에 의합니다.
제 3 장 계약 당사자의 의무
제 10 조 (KISTI의 의무)
① 당 사이트는 이용고객이 희망한 서비스 제공 개시일에 특별한 사정이 없는 한 서비스를 이용할 수 있도록
하여야 합니다.
② 당 사이트는 개인정보 보호를 위해 보안시스템을 구축하며 개인정보 보호정책을 공시하고 준수합니다.
③ 당 사이트는 회원으로부터 제기되는 의견이나 불만이 정당하다고 객관적으로 인정될 경우에는 적절한 절차를
거쳐 즉시 처리하여야 합니다. 다만, 즉시 처리가 곤란한 경우는 회원에게 그 사유와 처리일정을 통보하여야
합니다.
제 11 조 (회원의 의무)
① 이용자는 회원가입 신청 또는 회원정보 변경 시 실명으로 모든 사항을 사실에 근거하여 작성하여야 하며,
허위 또는 타인의 정보를 등록할 경우 일체의 권리를 주장할 수 없습니다.
② 당 사이트가 관계법령 및 개인정보 보호정책에 의거하여 그 책임을 지는 경우를 제외하고 회원에게 부여된
ID의 비밀번호 관리소홀, 부정사용에 의하여 발생하는 모든 결과에 대한 책임은 회원에게 있습니다.
③ 회원은 당 사이트 및 제 3자의 지적 재산권을 침해해서는 안 됩니다.
제 4 장 서비스의 이용
제 12 조 (서비스 이용 시간)
① 서비스 이용은 당 사이트의 업무상 또는 기술상 특별한 지장이 없는 한 연중무휴, 1일 24시간 운영을
원칙으로 합니다. 단, 당 사이트는 시스템 정기점검, 증설 및 교체를 위해 당 사이트가 정한 날이나 시간에
서비스를 일시 중단할 수 있으며, 예정되어 있는 작업으로 인한 서비스 일시중단은 당 사이트 홈페이지를
통해 사전에 공지합니다.
② 당 사이트는 서비스를 특정범위로 분할하여 각 범위별로 이용가능시간을 별도로 지정할 수 있습니다. 다만
이 경우 그 내용을 공지합니다.
제 13 조 (홈페이지 저작권)
① NDSL에서 제공하는 모든 저작물의 저작권은 원저작자에게 있으며, KISTI는 복제/배포/전송권을 확보하고
있습니다.
② NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 상업적 및 기타 영리목적으로 복제/배포/전송할 경우 사전에 KISTI의 허락을
받아야 합니다.
③ NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 보도, 비평, 교육, 연구 등을 위하여 정당한 범위 안에서 공정한 관행에
합치되게 인용할 수 있습니다.
④ NDSL에서 제공하는 콘텐츠를 무단 복제, 전송, 배포 기타 저작권법에 위반되는 방법으로 이용할 경우
저작권법 제136조에 따라 5년 이하의 징역 또는 5천만 원 이하의 벌금에 처해질 수 있습니다.
제 14 조 (유료서비스)
① 당 사이트 및 협력기관이 정한 유료서비스(원문복사 등)는 별도로 정해진 바에 따르며, 변경사항은 시행 전에
당 사이트 홈페이지를 통하여 회원에게 공지합니다.
② 유료서비스를 이용하려는 회원은 정해진 요금체계에 따라 요금을 납부해야 합니다.
제 5 장 계약 해지 및 이용 제한
제 15 조 (계약 해지)
회원이 이용계약을 해지하고자 하는 때에는 [가입해지] 메뉴를 이용해 직접 해지해야 합니다.
제 16 조 (서비스 이용제한)
① 당 사이트는 회원이 서비스 이용내용에 있어서 본 약관 제 11조 내용을 위반하거나, 다음 각 호에 해당하는
경우 서비스 이용을 제한할 수 있습니다.
- 2년 이상 서비스를 이용한 적이 없는 경우
- 기타 정상적인 서비스 운영에 방해가 될 경우
② 상기 이용제한 규정에 따라 서비스를 이용하는 회원에게 서비스 이용에 대하여 별도 공지 없이 서비스 이용의
일시정지, 이용계약 해지 할 수 있습니다.
제 17 조 (전자우편주소 수집 금지)
회원은 전자우편주소 추출기 등을 이용하여 전자우편주소를 수집 또는 제3자에게 제공할 수 없습니다.
제 6 장 손해배상 및 기타사항
제 18 조 (손해배상)
당 사이트는 무료로 제공되는 서비스와 관련하여 회원에게 어떠한 손해가 발생하더라도 당 사이트가 고의 또는 과실로 인한 손해발생을 제외하고는 이에 대하여 책임을 부담하지 아니합니다.
제 19 조 (관할 법원)
서비스 이용으로 발생한 분쟁에 대해 소송이 제기되는 경우 민사 소송법상의 관할 법원에 제기합니다.
[부 칙]
1. (시행일) 이 약관은 2016년 9월 5일부터 적용되며, 종전 약관은 본 약관으로 대체되며, 개정된 약관의 적용일 이전 가입자도 개정된 약관의 적용을 받습니다.