• Journal of East-Asian Urban History
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• v.1
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• pp.99-134
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• 2019

In the Edo period, there were many samurai residences with gardens in Edo. In the 20^th century, some of these gardens were inherited and new gardens were also cultivated in Tokyo. Because of this, Tokyo in the 20^th century has been a garden city since the Edo period. This study shows the characteristics of gardens inherited today from the 20^th century and the succession process of these gardens in the 20^th century.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.1-18
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• 2001

Korea huts been dramatically changed during the last century in many aspect of society, with the introduction of western culture in the beginning of 20th century. This study aims at understanding the changes in our traditional culture shown by costume as well as examining the aspects of the changes of traditional clothing according to age, by comparing the differences of our traditional dress Hanbok between ear1y and the late of the 20th century. Analysis of photographs showing Hanbok of both ages was used. 155 photographs of people wearing traditional Hanbok in the beginning of the 20th century were collected from the photo collection books portraying various living conditions of common people at that time. 748 Photographs of Hanbok worm today were obtained by taking pictures of various occasions like wedding ceremonies in 5 big cities during 1997. The process of analysis consists of 3 stages: setting standards, sorting, and grouping by positioning. The results showed that traditional Hanbok room in the early 20th century has maintained its basic silhouette and design during the century, but the methods of color coordination, ornamentation, construction have underdone many changes in detail. Consequently, traditional frame exits, but actually there are many variations of tradition produced by individual tastes and fashion trend. These changes show that continuing influx of the western culture which has made enormous social changes in Korea had an influence even on Hanbok.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.535-550
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate changes in the cooking process of $Bibimbab$(cooked rice mixed with various ingredients) appeared in cook books published after Korean modern era, approximately from late 19th century to the present. 7 cook books were chosen to be analyzed. It is found that the ingredients were mixed with the rice before being served in the cook books written in late 19th century until mid 20th century, while the ingredients were separately decorated on top of the rice in the cook books written from mid 20th century until late 20th century. $Gochujang$(Korean chilly paste), which is common spicy seasoning for $Bibimbab$ in the present time, appeared only in $Hangukeumak$(1987) which is written in late 20th century. Prior to $Hangukeumak$(1987), chilly powder or chilly was used for chilly-based spicy seasoning. Cook books written in late 19th century until mid 20th century, ingredients used for $Bibimbab$ had complicated cooking methods such as $Jeonyueo$(assorted pan-fried delicacies), $Nurumi$(fried beef skewer with various vegetables) and $Sanjeok$(grilled beef skewer). From mid 20th century until late 20th century, among the cook books analyzed in this research, only $Hankukyoribaekguasajeon$(1976) suggested $Jeonyueo$ as an ingredient, and in general, the cooking method for preparing beef became simpler. For further studies, firstly, the cooking procedures used for $Bibimbab$ in the prior period to the Korean modern era need to be examined for more information about the changes of cooking style of $Bibimbab$. Secondly, new $Bibimbab$ recipes for modern restaurants could be created by using the recipes used in the historical cook books. Finally, the definitions of culinary terms used in historical cook books need to be clarified.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.41-57
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the 20th century＇s makeup according to aesthetic categories. On the basis of aesthetic theories, four category pairs were determined as inter-confronting aesthetic categories: beauty of utility vs. beauty of social aptness : beauty of decoration vs. beauty of construction : sublime vs. grace : classical beauty vs. romantic beauty. 20th century＇s makeup was analyzed at the interval of 10 years referring to the images of actresses in the films produced in Hollywood and European countries. It was identified that 20th century＇s makeup had changed from decorative and dramatic makeup to natural makeup as the century proceeded. Consequently, beauty of social aptness, beauty of decoration. sublime, and romantic beauty were emphasized in the early 1900s while beauty of utility. beauty of construction, grace, classical beauty were emphasized in the later 1900s. In the whole 20th century, grace is the most dominant beauty among eight aesthetic categories due to it connote femininity. As the variety of fashion increases. the makeup patterns has become more diversified in recent years.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.925-940
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the major influence of postmodernism on 20th century fashion. Due to its characteristic traits like pluralism, indeterminacy, and immanence, it can be said that postmodernism in fashion manifests itself in an overlapped and duplicated style. The conceptual side has to do with such various 20th century thoughts as decanonization, deconstruction, populism, and in fashion it is presented as subcultural style, syncretic style, and post-feminist style. The stylistic side of postmodernism in fashion also has to do with fragmentation, hybridity, stress on performance and participation, carnivalization, deconstructive turn, and it is presented as hybrid expression, deconstructive technique, performance, and so on. In the latter part of the 20th century in which postmodernism blossoms in various fields, fashion also participates in the current of the times, together with the rapid stylistic turn, the co-existence of various trends, and the experimental or avant-garde new trials. However, it should be said that all of these tendencies mean not so much blurring of the boundaries between styles as developmental mixture of styles coming from juxtaposition after fully realizing the boundaries of contrast and combination.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.110-126
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• 1997

This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.12
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• pp.39-54
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• 1988

The purposes of this study were to identify the periodicity of fashion in modern society and to find the correlation between each detail and bustle constitution through the bustle styles that have been recently revived. For the study of periodicity, fashion plates or pictures in Vogue or in the books related Vogue since 1930 were selected, and were analyzed into bell, tubular and bustle silhouettes that were devided by Young (1937). And for the study of the correlation of detail and bustle constitution, fashion plates and pictures that were related to the bustle in the 19th century and the 20th century were selected, and according to the epoch (19C, 20C) and the use (daytime dress or evening dress), each of them was analyzed. The results were as follows: 1. After 1930, $24{\sim}33$ year amplitude was founded at tubular and bell shape, that proved shorter cycles than Young's. 2. In each characters of clothing details, deep decolletage, undivided waistline, spaced bodice in daytime dress were partly identified the characteristics of 20th century costume. 3. The form of bustle was converted from the complex ornament of the 19th century to the simple shape of the 20th century. In other words, it is necessary that the definition of bustle be changed not the previous definition as the silhouette and instrument but that as the emphasis dimension. 4. The dimensions that showed difference at daytime dress and evening dress were 'existence of collar', 'neckline', 'length of sleeve', 'kind of sleeve' for 19th century, and 'neckline', 'length of sleeve', 'kind of sleeve,' 'length of skirt' for 20th century. 5. Correlations with the bustle constitution and details were shown at bodice and waistline with the complex bustle in the 19th century and at collar and neckline with the simple bustle in the 20th century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.239-250
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• 2019

Recently, young people wearing hanbok are highly visible in the palace and in Hanok Village. However, there is much controversy regarding whether the hanbok the young people are wearing is traditional. Young people in Korea are exposed to hanbok through a variety of ways such as school education, games, webtoons, television shows, and movies. In this study, we presented teenagers with illustrations of hanbok to see which they preferred and which if any they recognized as traditional. The study respondents most preferred the hanbok from the 18th century, but they considered the hanbok from the 20th century to be the traditional style. We next used text mining to analyze the students' freely written, open-ended responses regarding the hanbok they preferred and the one they considered traditional. The hanbok from the 18th century, the one the teenagers preferred, was a sexy, cool style related to gisaeng that emphasized the waist, whereas the hanbok they believed was traditional, the $20^{th}$-century hanbok, was simple, neat, comfortable, and plain. Among the young people's responses regarding which hanbok was traditional, the text mining extracted the following repeated words related to both the 18th- and 20th-century hanbok: "dramas," "mass media," "historical dramas," and "movies." For the 18th-century hanbok only, we extracted "webtoons" and "Hanok Village," and for only the 20th-century hanbok, we extracted "textbooks."

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.315-328
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze on the aesthetic collaboration appeared on the modernism arts and Haute Couture designers in the 20th century as the necessity of analyzing on the pure meaning of collaboration which is a talking point associated with culture of the 21st century. The study was performed by means of documentary method. The results are as follows; First, it was analyzed that the collaboration in the pure meaning of the first half of the 20th century had partial common points which was stated as Art Inspiration in the arts collaboration out of the 21st century collaboration. Secondly, the Haute Couture designers(Paul Poiret, Gabriell Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet and Elsa Schiaparelli) have common point that they involved into the artworking through active exchange with many artists from diversified fields in the 20th century. Especially, the characteristics of the collaboration in the forms, materials and color of their works were appeared visually. When the collaboration in the first half of 20th century was regarded entirely as mental matter of manifestation of pure aesthetics, in can be said that the big difference was mostly the maximization of mutual interest between collaborator and collaboratee in the 21st century collaboration.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.55-65
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• 2010

The present study purposed to compare formative expression between the fashion of the end of 19th century - early 20th century and that of the 21st century which were influenced by art nouveau and art deco. For this purpose, we analyzed contents in literature, Internet, etc.,. According to the results of this study, the formative expression of art nouveau were divided into continuous movement, optical illusion and decorative expression. Continuous movement was used to express fancy and soft images in the end of 19th century, and to express images giving the feeling of speed and tension in the 21st century. Optical illusion was expressed by the movement the thin and soft materials with the body movement and the movement of excessive frills adornment. And in movement produced using thin and soft materials and by the bias cutting method in the 21st century. Decorative expression was expressed as fantasy and decadent image in the end of 19th century and as mild passionate and modern image with color combination in the 21st century. The formative expression of art deco were divided into visual simplicity, contrastive loudness, and functional expression. Visual simplicity was expressed as a boyish image in the early of 20th century, but as a complex expression combining simplicity and femininity in the 21st century. Contrastive loudness was expressed by using colors both in the early of 20th century and 21st century. Functional expression was reinforced through the lightening of design and materials in the early of 20th century, but through using bias cutting high tech materials in the 21st century.