• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.165-179
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• 2000

This research centers on studying the function and characteristic of fashion illustration for advertisement and publication which is, among plenty of fashion illustration's functions, the commercial one. Here are some purposes of the research. First, it presents the function of fashion illustration. Second, under the contemporary circumstance of specialization and subdivision. It givers people the better understanding of fashion illustration by providing a variety of its classification bases other than the typical, simple grouping of style drawing and fashion illustration. Third, this research helps fashion illustration establish itself as commercial art by showing how fashion illustration is utilized in the field as a part of the fashion industry. The methods and contents of the research are described that the concept of fashion illustration, characteristic, classification bases and commercial function are presented and than the data of fashion illustration which hale been used as goods since 1990 in the nation are selected in order to analyze the media for the application of fashion illustration. its expression methods, factors and images. By doing so, advertising fashion illustration are much less than those of published fashion illustration and even most cases of advertising fashion illustration are related just to poster advertisement such as magazines, fashion events or public subscription. The published fashion illustration isn't also attracting the public since it focuses on fashion information books, fashion magazines or fashion -clothing books. Another finding is that the expression style of fashion illustration is not various or distinctive. The expression remains in the trends of painting, figurative drawing, sometimes adopts post-modernism which is reflected in popular cartoon and figures exaggerates or simplifies the human body. The image of fashion illustration is simple. casual or feminine in the rough. For the development of commercial fashion illustration, it is required to produce fashion illustrators, not works but goody, with various concepts appealing to the public.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.129-139
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• 1999

This paper analyzes the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy to each other. Based on the chronological analysis, we propose a new category for the fashion and make-up trend in 1990s, which is 1) traditional ecology period(1990∼1994), 2) versatile trial or decadent period(1995∼1997), and 3) soft landing period based on the minimal neo-ecology and romanticism(1998∼2000). Between 1990 and 1994, there was no differentiation in seasons. It appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend have had no big differences. At the beginning in 1990s, it was basically based on ecology concept that emphasizes the natural image. However after 1995, seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. The trends of spring/summer in 1996 could be named as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel, and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. In 1998, pastel tone, pink, and purple color expresses the glamorous look based on the romantic feminism. S/S of 1999 is mainly represented by minimalism and avant garde. For fall/winter trends, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors in 1995 and 1996. These colors were the symbol of property and sentiment. Gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image. At that time, ethnic and romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet. In 1998, romanticism was popular again with modernism and ethnic mood. It expressed the romantic elegant image. The trend has returned to the ecology mood again in 1999. This ecology is somewhat different from the previous ecology. It adds a sofistaiced feeling and sportic fashion. To express natural and sportic image, they choose pink blush. In coming 2000 as a new millennium, the yellow color will be main the stream to express vision, dream, and happiness in both fashion and make-up as an accent color. The minimal design and minimal tools will be used for the design and make-up, respectively. In addition, the fusion concept will dominate the fashion and make-up industry in the globalized and boundariless age. Through this paper, we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people and industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.97-118
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• 2000

The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between, the ambivalence and fashion change(2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on 'Collections' from 1972 to 1988. Eight types of clothing cues were incluede: look color texture decorative motifs of clothing collar sleeve and wearer's headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1 The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequenctly expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s feminity/masculinity in 1980s and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealty/poverty sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty androgynous look in black for feminity/masculinity and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.688-701
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• 2014

This study examined the expression characteristics in pop art works of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. The study here aimed at possibility to find a design development in building up the unique art world of creativity based on popularity, artistry, and originality without confinement to the trend only. For the research method, review of literature and analysis about Castelbajac's works reflecting the pop art feature in the collections from 2000S/S to 2012F/W were performed. The results of research are as follows. The external expression form of Castelbajac's works based on pop art was grouped roughly into use of mass culture image, appropriation of pop art expression technique, and parody of art works. First, his work appeared as application of the mass culture image such as symbolic thing in the modern consumer society, object in an ordinary life, character of well-known animation, national flag and famous star. Second, such appropriated pop art techniques showed as pop color in strong primary color and silk screen, photomontage, collage, assemblage, graffiti, and lettering. Third, a variety of images featured earlier in art works were shown in parody. These works are valuable in that they are expressed aesthetically through regeneration of popular culture's various images in view of fashion, they are described in the non-traditional value with frolic resistance and deviation out of existing fashion norm, and they are given the dynamic creativity integrated with art and fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.150-161
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• 2005

The retro fashion and orientalism have been the main trend in the fashion industry tram 2000 as the turning point tram the minimalism. In particular, the far eastern oriental ism, that is, Japanese orientalism had been rapidly spread from 2001. As the trend has been moving to Chinese orientalism from 2003, the fabrics with flower pattern prints and those imbued with Chinese orientalism that were popular in 1960 are the main stream in the textile industry at present. As keeping up with the current trend, this study analyzed the common features and differences between textile patterns with Chinese orientalism that are prevailing ai present and the textile patterns that were popular in 1960s through the film "In the Mood for Love" that told the story of people who immigrated from Shanghai to Hong Kong in 1960s. According to the analysis, the popular textile patterns in 1960s were splendid flower patterns, pop art and op art patterns. Such a trend was elegantly expressed as the textile pattern of Chinese orientalism using qipao in the film "In the Mood for Love".

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.101-111
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the features of the conversational patterns presented on the fashion in the early 2000's and analyze it from cultural view. The expression of the patterns is a result of a creative aesthetic activity, mental activity, and the reflection of the common cognition. And the fashion is a part of the life environment. So the patterns presented on the fashion provides a clue to figure out the common unconscious sense for explaining the culture. The patterns have been expressed with different methods belonging to each culture such as weaving and prints. And those of the each cultural group have been communicating each other. The silk came to the Europe in the 6th century. The textile industry which flourished since 15th century. And they shows the chinoiserie or indian prints, not only the european culture. We can observe that the exchange of the techniques and cultures between cultural groups like the east and the west, and the presentation of the patterns is a way to express their own desires. The patterns presented after 2,000 can be classified by the form and the contents. But, more specifically, the patterns classified by the contents, which is Conversational design, can be categorized as followed according to the origin; reflecting cultural identity, Popular culture, Lohas lifestyle, and art movements. Which can be summarized as that the people have more interest on the different cultural group, diversity, retrospectiveness, and exoticism, which the patterns originally belonged to than on the form itself.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.73-87
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• 2017

Monpe, Korean women's wartime attire during the Japanese colonization period, has survived for 70 years as typical baggy workpants for rural women and emerged as retro-fashion. This paper applied a theory of "meme" to explain the monpe fashion trend in Korea. Based on literature review, empirical analyses were conducted by analyzing market and media including newspaper articles and blogs. We found that the monpe meme has evolved over time through variation, penetration, and diffusion. In terms of variation, the impression of monpe transitioned from a negative image to a positive one as a result of changes in design, functionality, and popular image. In terms of penetration, the monpe meme has spread into popular culture, again through mass media, with images of active, sexy, and attractive monpe-wearers on television and at popular occasions. Finally, the monpe meme has diffused throughout a broad range of consumers of various ages and both genders as an item of clothing for various occasions through diversified distribution channels. In this way, the development of monpe as fashionable clothing in Korea during the 2000s is itself a meme reflecting its evolution from a disgraceful colonial legacy to an item of contemporary fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.125-140
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to examine the Detail&Trimming from 16C to 18C, so called 'the age of decoration' and how they had been applied to contemporary fashion through various collections. Then this study investigated decorative trends based on the frequency analysis. For the methods of study, using literature review, theoretical research was conducted to investigate the kinds of modern clothing accessories and analyze how they were applied to contemporary fashion and its trends. The period of empirical research was from 2000 to 2006 S/S with its focus on "Mode et Mode", a representative fashion magazine. As a result, for detail, decorative composition, surface decoration, and trimming, detail-applied decorative designs showed the highest percent. To get a closer look, the highest applied decorative technique was found rough collar in the detail; fringing in the decorative composition; slash in the surface decoration; and jewelry in the trimming.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.25-39
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• 2000

Raoul Dufy devoted and was involved in textile design between 1910 and 1928. It was a transitional period in fashion. especially Poiret took an important role as a fashion designer at that time. After meeting Poiret, he won the fame as a textile designer rather than a painter, in his early stages, He had been deeply involved in fashion design. For instance Dufy and Poiret shared their world of art, collaborated to mount exhibitions, the Print textile fabrics by Dufy was used for dresses by Poiret and so on. The textile design which showed Dufy's artistic abilities was used as a method of expression of an exchange and a communication between art and fashion in the same period, through collaborations with Poiret. For instance, Dufy as a fauvist created and produced textile designs using his magnificent and cheerful colors and lines. He brought about a revolution in the textile design due to his participation in fashion design, as well as encouraging fashion designers. Textile design by Dufy, which grafted onto his world of art impressed Poiret greatly. It proposed the new direction of the fashion and influenced modern costume. The positive collaborate between Dufy and Poiret provided a momentum to a costume for being a part of art. Textile design as one of the important area in modern fashion needs a design originality for creating a high value-added products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.18-31
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• 2016

In response to increasing preference for tattoos during the 2000s, the demand for Japanesestyle tattoo fashion increased. Ukiyoe, the prototype of Japanese tattoo popular in the Edo period has been preserved traditional expression techniques to the present, It is characterized by the following: first, the tattoos share literary lyricism through plays borrowed from the classics. second, it displays harmony and equivocal expression of heterogeneous elements samurai and kabuki mono. third, humorous images are expressed in picture-in-picture form. And fourth, presence of fixed characters based on the publication culture. Tattoo fashion is characterized by the following: First, eclectic fashion based on pastiche; second, characters emphasizing fun and comicality; third, the adoption of tattoo models for establishing brand images; and fourth, Cultural association for the new composition of culture consumption. Pastiche, harmony of heterogeneous elements, fun and comicality, and fixed characters were found to be common between tattoo ukiyoe and tattoo fashion. That is, it attempted to meet the sensitive consumers' needs to keep up with the trends by adopting tattoo incorporated into the subculture of neo pop. This shows clearly the characteristics of fashion, which creates new trends through interacting with the contemporary culture.