• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2000

Kitsch is one of the various mass-cultural phnomena in the late 20th century, with it's own new aesthetic value, 'self-expression' through 'destruction', denying the existing established way of thinking and escaping from the stereotypes or fixed ideas. This is called 'aesthetic inadequacy'. The purposes of this study are to examine the different preferences between the western and the domestic Kitsch Fashions to investigate the formative and aesthetic characteristics of domestic Kitsch Fashion based on substantial data, and to propose the creative Kitsch design. The results of this study are as follows; 1. The formative characteristics of domestic Kitsch Fashion are marked by amusement, disharmony, epicureanism, satire, and use of imitation. 2. Then, based on theoretic research, this study applies aesthetic characteristics of Kitsch to the creative design. According to the formative characteristics for Kitsch Fashion, the Design Concepts are developed in order of Optimism, Multi Form, Decadence Chic, Neo-Naturalism, and Poor Vintage. And the Fabric direction is given in Design Story with sub theme such as Cheerful, Game, Decadence, Environment, and Grunge.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.97-111
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• 2000

The term Japonism was coined in France where the predilection for Japanese art forms was immediately apparent, influencing Impressionism, Symbolism, Post-Impressionism, and later the Art Nouveau movement, all of which reflect aspects of Japanese art adapted to Western style. The 1968 May Revolution in Paris changed traditional thinking and shifted the center of fashion of the 1970's from haute couture to pret-a porter. At about the same time, having recovered from the destruction of war, Japan started to emerge as a leading economic force. The Japanese clothing designers, who were inspired by their own traditions, began to present their collections in the West. Hanae Mori's dresses with Japanese floral motifs were the first to appear. The West was captivated by the colorfully layered clothing of Kenzo Takada inspired by peasant and working class kimonos. And Issey Miyake was acclaimed for his innovative concepts of ‘one piece of cloth'. In the 1980s Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto achieved recognition with their deconstructivist and minimalist approaches to fashion. The clothing proposed by these Japanese designers has transcended not only national and sexual boundaries, but also those of accepted materials in which to work. These designs suggest new possibilities and are unrestricted by preconceived ideas of kimono or of Western clothing. The emergence of Japanese designers as a powerful creative force in the late twentieth century has created a new dimension to the term Japonism in fashion. By integrating the clothing traditions of the West and Japan, while at the same time departing from them, a new international genre of clothing has been created.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.298-310
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• 2018

This study examines how to improve clothes according to types of disability and classify related studies. The study method used a literature review along with studies conducted after 2000. According to the results, the types of disability causing difficulty in terms of clothing habits are limb disorders and sensory defects among the types of physical disability. The results of the quantitative measurement on studies indicated that the number of studies increased almost twice as much before 2000. Particularly with the development of new technology and fashion trends, the number of studies on design increased. The topics of studies are found in design development, construction for disabled, and understanding clothing life. The design development topic is about suggesting functional designs that can protect the human body or aid in the use of rehabilitation devices. The construction topic for the disabled is to improve the inconvenience of wearing clothes, particularly for those with limb disorders. Lastly, the topic of examining clothing life is about using new technology to provide individuals with sensory defects with information about clothing life or the current status of the clothing market for the disabled.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.75-89
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• 2013

In 2000s, the interest of ROHAS has been increased and the environmental problem has begun to be discussed as the environmental and global value, not the individual perspective. And the standard of value for eco-friendly awareness has been expanded to the economic category. The trend of eco-friendly fabric can be divided into 3 periods depending on the property. The period for natural fabric with visual effects(2002~2004) can be summarized as the creation of natural shape using the natural image, the interaction of cotton and the technology from the visual perspective. In the period of functional conjunction with eco-friendliness and technology(2005~2008), the eco-friendly awareness through the conjunction of technology and nature and the re-cycling, and the responsibility to the environment had been increased. In the period of sustainable development for nature and environment(2009~2011), it showed the conjunction with nature and the integration with technology and eco-friendly issues. Therefore, the characteristic of eco-friendly trend in fabric since 2000 can be said; firstly, the high-quality fabric has been developed with technological development for the functional progress. Secondly, the ethical creativity has been displayed with the development and utilization of eco-friendly recycling materials. Thirdly, the materials reflected with eco-friendly issues have emerged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1098-1108
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• 2009

This study finds the meaning of Anti Couture in the examination of the tendency and characteristics of aesthetics sense of Anti Couture in Contemporary Fashion. Anti Couture disregards the traditional composition and takes some subcultural elements, moreover, have the Anti-decoration characteristics of disproportion, disharmony, asymmetry, inperfection, and irregularity such as Japanese fashion. This study analyzed 600 works from 2000 S/S to 2008 S/S to figure out the Anti Couture to summarize the eclectic, humorous, avant-garde, poor, and minimal tendencies. The characteristics of the aesthetics sense of Anti Couture according to the tendency are analyzed into ambiguity, deformation, eclecticism, deconstruction, and artless art.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.103-116
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• 2010

In view of our contemporary fashion, it is found that crossover between clothing and other items leads to creation of a new design and crossover of various cultural codes, ultimately creating a multicultural clothing design or any external outline of emerging costume designs by attempting mutual combination with other fields. Starting from a viewpoint that mutual combination style has significant effects on our contemporary fashion designs, this study intends to characterize external aspects of fashion design that changes through mutual combination style. This study focused upon analyzing costumes released by contemporary fashion designers after 2000, and addressed a variety of mutual combination styles. It gives various examples on mutual combination in fashion, seeking first to look into typical examples of mutual combination styling between fashion and art, between fashion and space and between fashion and technology. Based on those examples, this study classified crossover styles into 6 major categories such as attachment, suspension, modification, fusion, association and embedment. As a result, this study comes to a conclusion that external changes by mutual combination are characterized largely by overlap, simultaneity and deconstruction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.874-885
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• 2013

This study analyzes the visage in fashion illustration based on the deconstructed visage of Francis Bacon's paintings as well as analyzes fashion illustration works since 2000. The deconstructed visages in Francis Bacon's paintings are classified as blurring, elimination, distortion and division. The expressive methods and meanings in fashion illustration (according to categorization) are as follow. Blurring shows an ambiguous visage organ by the sweeping of the brush, removal of a boundary among the visage, body and clothes, gradation of organic line like visage shapes, stretching of the a plat combined to visage and fragmentation of visage. It represents an uncertainty of the fashion theme and image interpretation, impossibility of figure by ambiguity, fantastic effect and the induction of the uncanny. Elimination shows the background color's painting of a photo-montage, overlap of a cutting of visage's part and background of a plat, elimination of the visage and the elimination of eyes, nose or lips. It represents a weakened identity, the reinforcement of anonymity, creation of a violent image, and uncanny unfamiliarity. Distortion shows a distorted visage by free drawing, and unconscious drawing line, fluid digital body, combination of an unconscious curve, and an eccentric combination of the accidental. It represents the relief of specialty about realistic existence, hypothetical immateriality and fantasy. Division shows overlapped visages with different angles, the weird combination of a plural visage and different species and a plural breakaway of direction, and the position of several organs. It represents motion by power's trace, non-territory of species, ambiguity and uncertainty and the uncanny.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.100-116
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.46-48
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• 2000

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.86-86
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• 2000