• Title/Summary/Keyword: 19세기 의복

Search Result 6, Processing Time 0.022 seconds

역사속 과학인물-16세기 중국 기술서적 「천공개물」펴낸 송응성

  • Park, Seong-Rae
    • The Science & Technology
    • /
    • v.31 no.4 s.347
    • /
    • pp.72-74
    • /
    • 1998
  • 중국 명나라 말기인 1637년에 과학자 송응성은 중국의 전통기술서 천공개물을 펴냈다 3부로 구성된 이 책은 1부에서 곡물 .의복 등을 2부에서 기와, 용기. 화포. 제련. 석회 등 제조기술을 ,그리고 3부에서는 금 .구리 등 금속기술과 무기 제조 .보석 등을 다뤘다.1771년 일본에서 따로 간행된 이 책은 19세기부터 서양에도 소개되기 시작했으며 이번엔 국내에서 우리말로 번역되어 출간되었다.

  • PDF

A Study on the Change of Women's Sports Wear in the 19th Century (19세기 여성 Sports Wear 변천에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Yu-Kyung;Lee, Hee-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
    • /
    • v.9 no.1
    • /
    • pp.203-219
    • /
    • 2007
  • The education chance and job opportunity of women have increased in the 19th century. Also, women tried to get the right and chance equal to men in this period. Therefore, the population of women participating in the sports have increased. And comfortable and practical pantaloons which men have been wearing were suggested to women. This study investigated the characteristics and change of women's sports wear relating to social change in the 19th century. The results of this study were as follows: 1. According to the social change, women participated in the sports activities with the opportunity equal to men, and the appropriate women's sports wear was needed. 2. Pantaloons which were suggested as the clothing reform movement became popular with the development of sports wear. 3. Simple, effective, comfortable and easy style sports wear was preferred. 4. Women accepted men's sports wear positively. 5. The women's sports wear varied according to the various kinds of sports. 6. The healthful design was preferred and harmful design was excluded. 7. Underwear was improved functionally and simplified. 8. The main materials were flannel, wool, tweed, homespun and serge, and the mail colors were brown, dark blue, gray and black.

  • PDF

The Business Activities in Ui-jeon and their Effects on Commercial Power in the 18th-19th Centuries (18~19세기 의전(衣廛)의 영업 활동과 상권 변동)

  • Lee, Joo-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.59 no.8
    • /
    • pp.37-48
    • /
    • 2009
  • This paper summarized the forming, structure and management of the Ui-Jeon(衣廛) in Joseon Dynasty, considered the change of the commercial power of the Ui-Jeon in the $18{\sim}19th$ centuries. The Ui-Jeon was established the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. The Ui-Jeon merchants organized the association named Dojung(都中) and were in business with facilities like Haenrang(行廊) and Doga(都家). The Ui-Jeon was mid-sized Si-Jeon, the licensed shop(市廛). The Ui-Jeon held the monopoly of clothes. The Ui-Jeon merchants sold and bought old clothes, sold new clothes, lent the wedding dress for a bridegroom. The Ui-Jeon paid taxes and supplied clothes, goods and sewing labor for the marriage, funeral ceremonies of the royal family. The commercial power of the Ui-Jeon was threatened by free merchants(私商) named old clothes mercants(破衣商). Finally the Ui-Jeon merchants lost the exclusive right to clothes in 1791. After that, the Ui-Jeon merchanrs appealed to the government to give them the monopoly. The Ui-Jeon merchants regained the sole right to sell Ju-ui(紬衣), one item only, but it was temporary. Separately The Ui-Jeon merchants acquired the rights to collect the sub-taxes(分稅) from free merchants.

The Types and Formation of the Pieces for Fastening the Clothing in the Western and Oriental World from 18c to 19c ($18\~19$세기 동$\cdot$서양 의복에 나타난 여밈의 유형과 조형성)

  • Jang Hyun-Joo;Jang Jeong-Ah;Lee Joo-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.55 no.4 s.94
    • /
    • pp.49-61
    • /
    • 2005
  • This study is to research the types and formation of the pieces for fastening the clothing in the western and oriental world from 18c to 19c. The pieces for fastening the clothing, depending on their formation, are classified as the ribbon type, the belt type, the button type, and the compound type. The ribbon type indicates fastening the clothing with the strips attached to the clothes. It is divided into the symmetry type and the asymmetry type by the looks of the ribbon alter it is tied. The belt type means fastening the clothing with a string or a belt, separated from the clothes. It is divided into the string type and the belt type. The button type is to fasten the clothing with buttons, button holes, and hooks. It is divided into the basic type, the wrapping type, and the knot type. The compound type is a mixture of two or three types out of the ribbon type, the belt type, and the button type. The pieces for fastening the clothing has aesthetic features as well as their functional characteristics. It has beautiful features like the harmonious beauty of Yin and Yen shown in the asymmetrical types, the beauty of spell wishing for health, long-life, wealth, wisdom, and so on, the beauty of decency showing the intention of refraining from exposing their body in public, the beauty of eroticism emphasizing the beauty of the human body, and the beauty of representing their social class, authority, affiliation, and so on.

Namnyeong-wie, Yun Eui-Seon's Everyday Clothes included in Wedding Gift List in 1837 (남녕위(南寧尉) 윤의선(尹宜善)의 1837년 「혼수발기」 속 부마 편복(便服) 고찰)

  • LEE, Eunjoo
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
    • /
    • v.54 no.3
    • /
    • pp.68-89
    • /
    • 2021
  • In August 1837, a list of wedding gifts was given by Queen Sunwon (1789-1857) to her son-in-law, Namnyeong-wie, Yun Eui-Seon (1823-1887) at the wedding of Princess Deok-on (1822-1844). This Honsubalgi is now kept at the National Hangeul Museum. This text was used in the present study to examine the everyday clothes of the royal son-in-law in the early 19th century. First, the everyday clothes were organized into about 36 types. They were classified as tops, bottoms, hats, accessories, belts, pouches, fans and shoes. Second, the most important clothes were the ordinary formal attire, composed of the namgwangsa dopo and namgwangcho changui. As for the bottoms, the pants, the Chinese hemp leggings, two pairs of socks, the green silk belt, and a pair of light blue ankle ties were identified. Third, as for the head and accessories, there were heukrip, with the gemstone string and silk string, the jeong-ja-gwan and dong-pa-gwan, as well as tang-geon and bok-geon. And there were the sangtu-gwan, three types of donggos, and the mang-geon equipped with okgwanja. On the other hand, the jeong-ja-gwan and dong-pa-gwan are peculiar hats whose status has changed over time since the mid-18th century. The fact that the jeong-ja-gwan and dong-pa-gwan were given to Namnyeong-wie showed that the status of these hats improved in the early reign of King Heonjong. The belt was given with the sejodae that is suitable for the dangsang, the coral plates, and the silk bag containing a flint pouch. Fourth, there were the red-colored sejodae, a ssamji silk pouch for flint and the fan decorated with okseonchu, and shoes, such as unhye and danghye.

Territorial Expansion the King Võ (Võ Vương, 1738-1765) in the Mekong Delta: Variation of Tám Thực Chi Kế (strategy of silkworm nibbling) and Dĩ Man Công Man (to strike barbarians by barbarians) in the Way to Build a New World Order (무왕(武王, 1738-1765) 시기 메콩 델타에서의 영토 확장 추이: 제국으로 가는 길, '잠식지계(蠶食之計)'와 '이만공만(以蠻攻蠻)'의 변주)

  • CHOI, Byung Wook
    • The Southeast Asian review
    • /
    • v.27 no.2
    • /
    • pp.37-76
    • /
    • 2017
  • $Nguy{\tilde{\hat{e}}}n$ Cư Trinh has two faces in the history of territorial expansion of Vietnam into the Mekong delta. One is his heroic contribution to the $Nguy{\tilde{\hat{e}}}n$ family gaining control over the large part of the Mekong delta. The other is his role to make the eyes of readers of Vietnamese history be fixed only to the present territory of Vietnam. To the readers, $Nguy{\tilde{\hat{e}}}n$ Cư Trinh's achievement of territorial expansion was the final stage of the nam $ti{\acute{\hat{e}}n$ of Vietnam. In fact, however, his achievement was partial. This study pays attention to the King $V{\tilde{o}}$ instead of $Nguy{\tilde{\hat{e}}}n$ Cư Trinh in the history of the territorial expansion in the Mekong delta. King's goal was more ambitious. And the ambition was propelled by his dream to build a new world, and its order, in which his new capital, $Ph{\acute{u}}$ $Xu{\hat{a}}n$ was to be the center with his status as an emperor. To improve my assertion, three elements were examined in this article. First is the nature of $V{\tilde{o}}$ Vương's new kingship. Second is the preparation and the background of the military operation in the Mekong Delta. The nature of the new territory is the third element of the discussion. In 1744, six years after this ascending to the throne, $V{\tilde{o}}$ Vương declared he was a king. Author points out this event as the departure of the southern kingdom from the traditional dynasties based on the Red River delta. Besides, the government system, northern custom and way of dressings were abandoned and new southern modes were adopted. $V{\tilde{o}}$ Vương had enough tributary kingdoms such as Cambodia, Champa, Thủy $X{\tilde{a}}$, Hoả $X{\tilde{a}}$, Vạn Tượng, and Nam Chưởng. Compared with the $L{\hat{e}}$ empire, the number of the tributary kingdoms was higher and the number was equivalent to that of the Đại Nam empire of the 19th century. In reality, author claims, the King $V{\tilde{o}}^{\prime}s$ real intention was to become an emperor. Though he failed in using the title of emperor, he distinguished himself by claiming himself as the Heaven King, $Thi{\hat{e}}n$ Vương. Cambodian king's attack on the thousands of Cham ethnics in Cambodian territory was an enough reason to the King $V{\tilde{o}}^{\prime}s$ military intervention. He considered these Cham men and women as his amicable subjects, and he saw them a branch of the Cham communities in his realm. He declared war against Cambodia in 1750. At the same time he sent a lengthy letter to the Siamese king claiming that the Cambodia was his exclusive tributary kingdom. Before he launched a fatal strike on the Mekong delta which had been the southern part of Cambodia, $V{\tilde{o}}$ Vương renovated his capital $Ph{\acute{u}}$ $Xu{\hat{a}}n$ to the level of the new center of power equivalent to that of empire for his sake. Inflation, famine, economic distortion were also the features of this time. But this study pays attention more to the active policy of the King $V{\tilde{o}}$ as an empire builder than to the economic situation that has been told as the main reason for King $V{\tilde{o}}^{\prime}s$ annexation of the large part of the Mekong delta. From the year of 1754, by the initiative of $Nguy{\tilde{\hat{e}}}n$ Cư Trinh, almost whole region of the Mekong delta within the current border line was incorporated into the territory of $V{\tilde{o}}$ Vương within three years, though the intention of the king was to extend his land to the right side of the Mekong Basin beyond the current border such as Kampong Cham, Prey Vieng, and Svai Rieng. The main reason was $V{\tilde{o}}$ Vương's need to expand his territory to be matched with that of his potential empire with the large number of the tributary kingdoms. King $V{\tilde{o}}^{\prime}s$ strategy was the variation of 'silkworm nibbling' and 'to strike barbarians by barbarians.' He ate the land of Lower Cambodia, the region of the Mekong delta step by step as silkworm nibbles mulberry leave(general meaning of $t{\acute{a}}m$ thực), but his final goal was to eat all(another meaning of $t{\acute{a}}m$ thực) the part of the Mekong delta including the three provinces of Cambodia mentioned above. He used Cham to strike Cambodian in the process of getting land from Long An area to $Ch{\hat{a}}u$ Đốc. This is a faithful application of the Dĩ Man $C{\hat{o}}ng$ Man (to strike barbarians by barbarians). In addition he used Chinese refugees led by the Mạc family or their quasi kingdom to gain land in the region of $H{\grave{a}}$ $Ti{\hat{e}}n$ and its environs from the hand of Cambodian king. This is another application of Dĩ Man $C{\hat{o}}ng$ Man. In sum, author claims a new way of looking at the origin of the imperial world order which emerged during the first half of the 19th century. It was not the result of the long history of Đại Việt empires based on the Red River delta, but the succession of the King $V{\tilde{o}}^{\prime}s$ new world based on $Ph{\acute{u}}$ $Xu{\hat{a}}n$. The same ways of Dĩ Man $C{\hat{o}}ng$ Man and $T{\acute{a}}m$ Thực Chi $K{\acute{\hat{e}}}$ were still used by $V{\tilde{o}}^{\prime}s$ descendents. His grandson Gia Long used man such as Thai, Khmer, Lao, Chinese, and European to win another man the '$T{\hat{a}}y$ Sơn bandits' that included many of Chinese pirates, Cham, and other mountain peoples. His great grand son Minh Mạng constructed a splendid empire. At the same time, however, Minh Mạng kept expanding the size of his empire by eating all the part of Cambodia and Cham territories.