• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.97-115
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• 2022

The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제50권
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• pp.261-281
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• 2018

이 논문은 원래 선행 논문 "사드 연구 50년"의 일부분이었으나, 분리하여 수정하고 논문형식을 갖춰 제출되었다. 우리는 이 논문에서 비평가들은 밝히기를 꺼려하지만 사드를 이해하는데 반드시 고려해야할 몇 가지 특성을 고찰하려고 했다. 즉 작품 전반에 걸쳐 나타나는 다음성(polyphony), 등장인물들의 모순된 철학적 담론 그리고 후작의 작품은 상황적 텍스트라는 사실 등을 말한다. 오랫동안 사드 연구는 위의 몇 가지 특성을 도외시한 채 이루어져왔다. 특히 전문 비평가 그룹은 자신들의 이론적 정당성을 위해 사드 작품의 일부만을 취하여 이용해왔다. 그 결과 사드의 작품은 판독 불가능한 상태가 되었다. 다행히 1990년 이후의 연구자들은 사드와 그의 등장인물을 동일시하는 관행을 거부하고 정확한 자료와 역사적이고 사상사적 맥락에 기초한 연구를 진행해왔다. 학계에 많은 반향을 일으킨 이들의 연구는 앞으로 사드 연구의 중심이 될 것이라고 우리는 생각한다.