• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.97-115
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• 2022

The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권9호
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• pp.901-915
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• 2012

This study comparatively analyzes the characteristics, changes, and differences in class-based costume typology according to a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. The methods and contents are as follow. First, the scope of common people is grasped according to the historical background and a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. Second, through considering a prior research on analyzing the data of ancient documents on the economy of clothing, it classifies common people into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute. It then examines diachronic evolution, and class-based synchronic difference in the consumption of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people's costumes in France. Third, it analyzes the appearance frequency by period according to type of common people's costumes, which were shown in pictorial materials with 283 sheets of engravings and 54 pieces of paintings; in addition, it reconstructs the succession and expansion in typology. It grasps differences and changes in morphology by class, space, and period of typology for common people's costumes. Common people's consumption of costumes was understood to have grown in qualitative aspects as well as a rise in the whole clothing demand. A class-based structure formed and indicated that a fashion cycle existed. As a result of analyzing common people's clothes (shown in pictorial materials of the $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century) 41 items were grasped by gender and according to costume kind. Typology in common people's costumes (classified into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute) showed a change by period. A change in typical costume typology was accepted more by the bourgeoisie than by urban and rural common people, and was accepted more by rural communities than by urban populations. Thus, a difference was formed through an expansion with a temporal difference that depended on class and space.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2012

'Beauty(美)' is pursued by many women. It has been expressed through fashion which has become more various as the society became wealthier. This phenomenon can also be found in the Salon Culture of the 17~18th Centuries and in the way that the free-style socialization without specific purposes began by women. Such 'salon culture' fashions have been reproduced in various methods by contemporary fashion designers as they met the trends or as they became the inspiration and source of ideas and were reinterpreted in various styles. Therefore, it is necessary to compare and analyze the studies and expression methods regarding that style's effects on contemporary fashion at a time when the women's salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries is being naturally combined with or restructured to fit in with contemporary fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze, establish the concept of, and summarize the characteristics of the salon fashion style in order to provide fundamental scholarly information and a direction for the fashion design market by establishing a database on the characteristics of both eras based on the characteristics analysis results of the contemporary fashion style and salon culture era. Moreover, this study is also significant in that it will be a helpful tool for new design development to satisfy consumer needs, and in that the comparison analysis on the salon culture and contemporary fashion characteristics can be a useful tool to understand the fashions of both era. The study methods were, first, through a literature review to study the concepts and background of the salon culture. The second method was to setup a style analysis of a period of 4 years and collect visual data from internet fashion information web sites, such as collection books, to collect and analyze the data. Third, the analysis focused mainly on the results of the categorization of images with 20 fashion experts. Fourth, the details of the salon culture fashion style that are used the most in contemporary fashion were summarized and analyzed. Therefore, the results of this study are as follows The development of the socializing culture during the economically abundant era of the 17~18th Centuries became the stepstool for women to enter a new society and at the same time became the background of the development of the salon and related literature. For the characteristics of the salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries, the changes were more significant in the details of the collars, necklines, sleeves, and robes, rather than in partial silhouette changes. It was found that the same fashion repeats in several-century intervals depending on the era changes; however, it has been reinterpreted newly based on consumer preferences and era situations instead of being reused exactly. Therefore, this study will become scholarly and fundamental data to establish the contemporary understanding of the fashion of the salon culture.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.68-89
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• 2021

헌종 3년(1837) 순원왕후(純元王后, 1789~1857)는 막내딸 덕온공주(德溫公主, 1822~1844)의 8월 가례를 맞아 부마 남녕위(南寧尉) 윤의선(尹宜善, 1823~1887)에게 혼수품을 내렸다. 그 물목을 적은 「혼수발기」가 국립한글박물관에 소장되어 있는데 「혼수발기」를 통해 19세기 전기의 부마 편복에 관해 살펴본 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 「발기」 속 편복 품목을 대략 36종으로 정리하고 용도별로 ① 상의류 9종, ② 하의류 8종, ③ 관모와 수식 10종, ④ 허리띠와 주머니 4종, ⑤ 부채 3종과 신발 2종으로 분류하였다. 둘째, 남녕위의 편복 중 가장 중요한 의복은 남광사 도포와 남광초 창의(대창의)로 구성된 통상예복이었다. 그 외에 창의 2점(남광수사·청저포), 중치막 1점(남생경광주), 쟁친 상침긴옷 1점(옥색 쌍문초), 모시 홑창옷 1점(소창의), 겹저고리 2점(보라색 설사, 저포), 당포적삼에 생경광주한삼과 저포한삼이 있었고 하의류로는 겹바지와 고의(홑바지), 당포 행전과 버선 2켤레, 초록사 요대, 옥색사 대님이 있었다. 셋째, 관모와 부속품으로 밀화영과 사영을 갖춘 흑립, 정자관·동파관, 받침모 탕건과 복건이 있었으며 수발(修髮)에 필요한 상투관과 세 종류의 동곳(산호·밀화·순금), 옥관자를 갖춘 망건이 있었다. 특히 정자관과 동파관은 18세기 이후 신분별 구분이 있던 관모인데 남녕위에게는 정자관과 동파관을 함께 보냈다. 넷째, 홍색 계통의 세조대와 부싯돌을 담을 쌈지와 사낭, 그리고 옥선추를 장식한 선자, 사직물로 만든 모선, 소접(小摺) 등의 부채류, 운혜와 당혜 신발도 포함되어 있었다. 마지막으로, 『덕온공주가례등록』의 복식 기록과는 달리 「혼수발기」의 복식 기록이 당시의 실제적인 복식 명칭임을 확인하였으며 19세기 전기 부마 편복의 구체적인 구성을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제65권8호
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• pp.136-150
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• 2015

The purpose of this thesis is to elucidate the exchange between the East and the West during the 17th century through analyzing the oriental influences described in paintings in Delft school, a trade port of East India Company. The scope of this study focused on the 37 pieces of works by Johannes Vermeer and 31 pieces of the paintings by Pieter de Hooch, which are all the existing work, as analysis targets. The resources of this study were from previous papers about the history of costumes, paintings and culture, Internet sources and other qualitatively analyzed articles. The items that the study looked into were Delft porcelains and Delft tiles, Turkey carpets, costumes and accessories pearl earrings and headdresses. The study looked into oriental factors observed in each of these items, and analyzed them. In terms of oriental factors that are frequently observed in paintings, porcelains (100%), Deft tiles (100%), pearl earrings (100%) and (most) carpets (92.3%) turned out to have oriental nature, but this was not the case with head dresses (7.7%) and clothing (0.3%). These results happen to coincide with the previous investigation in that the oriental factor was reflected in the culture first, while the effects on costumes significantly lagged behind. This progress in cultural exchange can be seen through the noted use of Chinoiserie, a technique that is representative of the Chinese culture, in the 18th century. Through Japonism, the influence of Japanese culture into Europe was introduced, in detail, in 19th century. These results suggest that there are sufficient amount of sources that could be used to study the effect of orientalism to the Western culture. This study intends to look at how the oriental culture affected those of Europe by researching the Delft school of Netherlands during the 17th century.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1318-1330
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• 2010

The 21st century is the age when a sensational image has more explanatory power and can deliver a more powerful message than a message consisting of logical thinking. Powerful visual images create a big impact on many people throughout the world, overcoming linguistic barriers and even replacing language as a means of communication. In the fashion field, the concept and power of visual images within the new multimedia of the 21st century are becoming increasingly important. In recent years, other than the above methods, videos, movies and animation features have been produced directly to enhance visual effects and attempts are increasing to use these new tools as communication methods. This study focuses on animation contents that have been used in the fashion industry to overcome prejudice of luxury international brands that feature images that emphasize value, quality and heritage. The purpose of this study is to focus on the specific character of fashion animation in order to overview the concept of 21st video fashion communication and to show how the collection concept that includes color and detail places an emphasis on visual images. Analysis of previous research, theoretical research through literature and case study on Prada fashion animation led to the following conclusion. The common features of two different Prada fashion animation show that both animation have the following features in common : realism, dramatic impact and convergence for expression methods, and creativeness, hybrid and a happy ending for contents. Beginning with this study, I believe that various angles of interest and concern about communication in the fashion world, which is a social and cultural phenomenon that changes rapidly, can be will be looked at and learned from.

• 복식
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• 제42권
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• pp.207-222
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• 1999

This study is a thesis based on the fact that at the end of eighteenth century similar change in hair style appeared in Chosun and France which are located very far almost the opposite side of the earth. We can see that very exaggerated and big hair styles of those days in both countries became exceptionally reduced and changed to practical shapes through (an order prohibiting to make large hair style using wigs) is case of Chosun and through the France Revolution in case of France. Outwardly the abobe mentioned change may seem to be caused by such brave and outward convention as the prohibition order and the revolution. however I think that more basic cause of such change from big and splendid hair styles of those days to simple styles was because of many people's sympathy with the necessity of improving various social and economical problems caused by the luxurious and even prodigal situation of those days before the change and additionally because of such pragmatic thought as Positivism of chosun and illuminism of france. In case of france the change in hair style occurred for such a short period of time around the France Revolution(1789) that we can even that the change occurred in a day. However in case of Chosun such change became fixed at the time of king Suncho prohibiting to make large hair style using wigs (1756-1788) was announced. in case of France such change in hair style was mainly because of change of thought caused by people's self-consciousness. But in case of Chosun under the situation where common people's way of thinking about sumptuous moods and beauty was not changed unvoluntary and compulsory change was asked by the King's order so a lot of time seemed to have been necessary for the change in hair style to become fixed as a nationwide common and general custom.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.89-108
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is not only to trace the examples of 'Chesanja' from the texts and artifacts, but also to restore the terminology of the lost traditional Joseon embroidery technique. 'Chesanja' came on Mongolia and Yuan period affected embroidery techniques of the neighboring countries. Therefore, this study will focus on investigate the process of changing 'Chesanja' into Guya(Goya) through ${\ll}Barktonsa{\gg}$ the foreign language transcriptions of the Chosun dynasty, and examine the generation, fashion, and destruction of this technique with the social technical usage. Around the 16th century of the Joseon Dynasty, 'Chesanja' had been actively used as a decorative techniques to dairy products as well as a Buddhist memorial goods embroidered. Accor- dingly, in the "Beonnyeok-Baktongsa"(1515) appeared together written records with 'Chesanja' 'Gwiyeo[귀여]' the Eonhae(Korean annotation) only had emerged in the Joseon Dynasty. It was still a technique to decorate the edges of royal pillow in the mid-17th century. And we have checked from the text "Baktongsaeonhae"(1677) also. Despite this by the mid-18th century, the term in "Baktongsa-sinseok"(1765) and "Baktongsa-sinseok-eonhae"(1765) had disappeared. This phenomenon suggests the possibility that the production and utilization of 'Chesanja' required the sophisticated process for the ruling class had been declined with the custom of embroidery based on the gradation by colorful threads as the preferred technique. Therefore, 'Chesanja' and 'Gwiyeo'[귀여] disappeared from the records but they can be found in the artifacts of the royal family of 19th century. So Chesanja is calls Guya(Goya) and exists as unique technic only in the royal family.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.29-43
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costume designs that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde art. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the trend of art that Natalia Goncharova introduced in the early 20th century. The research method defined the formation and progress of the development of the Neo-Primitivism centering the works of art by Natalia Goncharova. Based on this method, Goncharova designed the set and the costume designs for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing art. The result were as follows. First of all, Goncharova's costume designs were all manufactured based on the theme of Russian folk art and genesis. In other words, Goncharova represented the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art Lubok, and Goldern cockerel or religious Icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume designs. her design displayed the Neo-Primitivism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, which defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Goncharova had one realize that Neo-Primitivism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Natalia Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the early 20th century in their costume designs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.229-244
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss the type and characteristics of primitivism in the modern fashion of the $21^{st}$ century and, as a research method, the concept of primitivism as well as the transition of the patterns of primitivism expressed in modern art have been considered and reviewed through a variety of references. In particular, an empirical analysis of the works that have been created from 2000 to 2009 has been performed using domestic and overseas fashion and collection magazines. The characteristics of primitivism in modern fashion possess the following types of expression: First, Sensuality can be cited as one of the characteristics, either by using direct or indirect exposure of the human body, a silhouette which fits tightly to the body, or creating the effect of sensual beauty using animal fur or bird feathers. Second, Incantation: Masks symbolizing primitive incantation are used to cover the human face or primitive incantation is incorporated as a theme of hair accessories or fashion trinkets, etc. In addition, such decorations as tattoos and the body colorations of ancient tribes are reproduced in modern fashion by means of body painting, printing or other accessories, emphasizing the image of occult primitiveness. Third, Naturalness can be cited as one of the characteristics. Naturalness is emphasized in modern fashion not through artificial decorations and processing, but rather through different patterns of exposure by which natural purity can be felt or through the use of non-artificial materials which recalls primitive civilization. Forth, Playfulness is expressed in the form of graffiti or abstract letters and paintings, and the character of the play is often expressed by the use of grotesque images based on various distortions and exaggerations of the human body, the utilization of symbols of primitive incantation and body and/or facial painting. Fifth, Lastly 'folkishness is emphasized. Folk-like objects, facial decorations, exposure of the body and intense color contrasts typically represent the folkish characteristics.