• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.269-284
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• 1995

This study investgates the significance of Chosun burial clothing in 15th to 17th Centuries by examing the costumes recorded in the ryesu (ritual books). Referring to description of the mouring-rit-ual in the the Kujoohryei(국조오례의), the sangryebiyo(상례비요), they exhibit little differ-ence in the ceremonial procedure, this implies that the the Jujagarye, the oldiest Chinese Ryesu, had influence on the manner of Chosun. The Kujoohryei(국조오례의) written-in 15th Century played a paramount role in domesti-cation of burial costume(염습의) which had been performed by the Jujagarye(주자가례), and the sangryebiyo(상례비요) etc written between 16th and 17th Centries promoted to genealize the mouring-ritual to the ordinery people. In the period, ryemsupui(염습의, clothing for the dead) is costumes for 'sup(습)', sofyum(소렴), and 'daeryum(대렴)' in the mourning ceremorial procedure, and for postliminal rites in the rites of passage. The reason of using clothing which they put on the dead's own daily clothing stands for eagerness for lasting life not only in this world but also in the other world.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.

• KOMUNHWA
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• no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 1966

• The Journal of Pediatrics of Korean Medicine
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.13-13
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• 2001

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.85-108
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• 2017

This paper details the advance of the "Hui" (回) people to Korea and their socioeconomic activities in forming their own community during the late Goryeo and early Joseon period. Hui (回) or Hui Hui (回回) is generally recognized as representative of Muslim culture in Chinese and Korean sources. From the $8^{th}$ century, Korean-Muslim cultural relations accelerated as an outcome of ancient Chinese-West Asian commercial transactions along the Silk Road. These contacts between Muslims and Koreans on the Korean peninsula are borne out by references to Korea found in 23 Islamic sources written between the $9^{th}$ and $16^{th}$ centuries by 18 Muslim scholars, including Ibn Khurdadbih, Sulaiman al-Tajir, and Mas'ud1 i. Ibn Khurdadbih was the first Arab who wrote of Muslims' residence in the Unified Silla Kingdom (661-935CE). However, in the period of Silla, we could not find any reliable written documents in Korea to show encounters between Korea and the Muslim world. In the Goryeosa (GS) chronicle, Muslim merchants who came to Korea were described as "Daesik" (大食: Tashi). Daesik (Tashi) is most probably derived from "Tajir", which means "trader" in Muslim language. Muslims' mass influx and their wide ranging influence on Korean society manifested from the late $13^{th}$ century when the Goryeo Dynasty first came under Mongol control and afterward in the early $15^{th}$ century with the new dynasty of Joseon in Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.49-61
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• 2019

This study aims to examine the spatial recognition of the characters who visited Anuisamdong(安義三洞) in the past and left it in the literature. Thus, the school's relationship between people identified in the relevant literature was analyzed and the elements of landscape were extracted. The results were as follows; First, The figures who authored the literature on Anuisamdong were related to scholars living in Anuihyun(安義縣), along with the Yeongnam confucian genealogy. Starting with Jung, Yeo-Chang(鄭汝昌) in the 15th century, a relationship centered on Nammyeong School(南溟學派) in the 16th century was formed. At that time, people had toured the Anuisamdong regardless of the academic background. In the 17th century, Nammyeong School were in conflict with Toegye School(退溪學派), so Toegye School's influence had no record. In the 18th century, the proportion of Nammyeong School, Toegye School, and Kiho School(畿湖學派) appeared similar as they evolved into the Yeongnam School(嶺南學派). After the 19th century, the proportion of patriots who participated in the anti-Japanese movement was higher than that of schools. Second, The main places used in the literature related to Anuisamdongwere the order of Wonhakdong(猿鶴洞), Hwrimdong(花林洞) and Simjindong(尋眞洞). There are a total of 21 major elements used for the related literature, of which Suseungdae Rock(搜勝臺), Morijae House(某里齋), Nongwaljeong Pavilion(弄月亭), Sasundae Rock(四仙臺) and Cheoksuam Rock(滌愁巖) were the main subjects. Elements of Wonhakdong have been in the spotlight since the 16th century, focusing on Suseungdae Rock. Although the elements of Hwarimdong have been increasing gradually since the 18th century, the ratio of Simjindong to Wonhakdong and Hwarimdong was relatively small. Third, The relationship between the figures who visited the Anuisamdong and the spatial recognition of the Anuisamdong was divided into landscape awareness, emotional awareness and symbolic recognition. The Anuisamdong's scenic view is mostly identified by its description of the waterscape and topographical landscape, which people may have perceived as a scenic site centered on the valley view at the time. The mutual influence of Nammyeong School and Toegye School in the 16th and 17th centuries led to a scene in which the major figures of each school recognized pleasure as a culture of training, and a feeling of longing for the traces of past ancestors as the 18th century travel culture and the 19th century chaotic situation. In addition, the symbolic expression that usually appears is likely to have been recognized as a unworldly place, as the location of the immortal world is confirmed.

• Journal of National Security and Military Science
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• s.7
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• pp.25-54
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• 2009

This article is focusing on the importance, concepts, and theses of Military Thoughts. This article also tried to find the research trend on the Korean Military Thoughts History. In addition, this article makes a general overview of Yang Seong-ji in the mid 15th Century. The fundamental objects of Military Thoughts are Tactics of a person for Military Affairs and Military Tactical Manuals. The circumstances at that time, the Military System, and Weapon system are based on the preceding two essential elements on Military Thoughts. From now on, this article insist on the necessity of the Study on the History of Korean Military Thoughts focused on a military figure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.26-37
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• 2009

This study has begun as to identify various forms of personified Hindu deitiesand its goal is to understand the symbols of Hindu which are the backgrounds of the modern Hindu culture and present the hairstyle images of ancient Indians through the Hindu deities of the era. Scope of the research has been determined to six major deitiesamong those from Hindu culture that affect the Indian society and the images of Hindu deitiesappeared in the Indian miniatures and sculptures were studied as times changed. The deities could be identified by symbols maintained in common by each divinity as the Hindu deities were diversified through the long history. Examining the transitions in hairstyles and headstyles of Hindu deities, hair shapes of spiraling curls were expressed in the ancient Hindu sculptures from $2^{nd}$ century to $6^{th}$ century due to the influence of early Indian Buddhism. In Hindu paintings from $15^{th}$ century to $19^{th}$ century, beards and sideburns were expressed in male deities due to the influence from Mugul arts, while feminine characters were emphasized in goddesses with long loose hair. Works are each presented encapsulating the results of the researches on Vishnu and Lakshmi from these Hindu deities. It is attempted to find Hindu image and present directions for developments of modern beauty by supplying motives to modern hair design by researching the hairstyles of Hindu deities.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.246-263
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• 2019

The stone Buddha statue of Sangunsa Temple at Bukhansan in Goyang, Gyeonggi Province, is an excellent example of stone Buddha statues created in the late 15th century. On the base of the figure, there is an inscription, which informs that it was produced in 1497. In recognition of this significance, it was recently designated as a tangible cultural asset in Gyeonggi-do. Thus, this paper tried to evaluate the value of the statue by analyzing iconography and style. The characteristics of a typical 15th-century style that the Buddha statue of Sangunsa Temple shows are the form of ushnisha, the way clothes are worn, the form of a w-shaped chest muscle, and the simple lotus pedestal. On the other hand, the elongation of the waist and the disappearance of the waistband on undergarments are new forms of Buddha statues in the 16th century. Besides, parting the hair in the middle of the head and leaf-shaped short ribbon draped on undergarments are unique features that only appear on the statue of Sangunsa Temple. Sangunsa has been known to be built in the early 18th century based on Bukanji compiled by Seongneung in 1745, and Bongeunbonmalsaji composed in 1943. However, the statue was created in the late 15th century, before the establishment of the temple in the early 18th century. Therefore, this paper briefly reviewed the history of Sangunsa Temple, focusing on the initial period, referring to the historical sites and the relics that were passed on to the temple, as well as the literature records. The data newly referred to in the study are as follows: Sangunsa Stone Pagoda, presumed to be from the Goryeo Dynasty; the Stone Buddha Statue of Sangunsa; Wooden Amita Triad Buddha Statue of Sangunsa. According to the data and contrary to previously-held beliefs, Sangunsa Temple is believed to have been operating since the Goryeo Dynasty. It can be inferred through analysis of the stone Buddha statue of Sangunsa Temple that the size of the Temple before the 18th century was not very large.