• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.93-109
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to examine the modern men's fashion coordination to see the image in the center of TV dramas in terms of Habitu that is formed within hierarchy and class. The subjects range is included fashion style, color, accessories, hairstyle and appearance. 950 pictures used in the analysis sheet. In research methods, content analysis and basic statistics were used. The results of this study were as follows. First, the hierarchy image formed by Habitus is significant difference. The upper layer is coordinating elite luxurious and prestigious image of the fashion styles. The middle layer is coordinating neat and capable image. The lower layer does not care about the appearance and image appearing weary life is coordinating. Second, the class image formed by Habitus, CEO often interests in fashion image coordination. Senior executive is represented clean and luxurious image. General white color dresses in a suite such as office look. Blue color does not care about the fashion coordination and is expressed an easy dress for labor. Architects of the unstructured free-spirited image is represented. Physician and resident physician dress in shirts, no pattern tie, pants, robe. And they is coordinating neat and tidy attire to represent professional and reliable image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.326-337
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• 2006

Self-immersed narcissism image that had been limited only a feminine image has being represented as a new masculinity image through various fashion magazine and TV advertisements. Besides, this makes a contribution of enlargement of concern about the beauty and fashion of the male. In the past, fashion has been created through the fetishism about the female body. But, new male image has been changed during only 30-40 years compared with the traditional various social, cultural, sexual body images had been changed for a long time. On the contrary, changed modem male image removes the interval of difference between the male and the female image. Now, representative techniques of the masculinity perform both accommodation and disobedience against social and cultural rules. Social body, which has been understood that appearance represents almost all things, makes the good use of the space of discipline and reformation. This paper is tended to grasp the characteristics of male body image expressed modem male fashion and TV advertisements based on the examination about the changed male body image.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.577-587
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• 2016

This study aims to identify the design of men's wear that has the characteristics of expressing maximalism in men's wear collection and contribute to the field of men's wear fashion which expects new, original, and experimental fashion styles to be created. When it comes to research contents, this study first identifies the concept and characteristics of expression of maximalism in such fields as literature and art and based on this, makes a case study of men's wear fashion designs shown in men's wear collection and then understands the type of characteristics of expressing maximalism and the characteristics related to its expressive method in men's wear design. The study findings are as follows: First, expansion referred to the extreme avant-garde that changed the concept of fashion design by expanding clothes or accessories or exaggerating silhouettes. Second, fanciness continued to appear as a tool to use the luxurious decorations that applied fancy handicraft techniques and express the world of original design. Third, fusion represented the expression of various charms from one work without making any classifications between the tradition and the present and between the east and the west. Fourth, fantasy indicated the expression of surrealistic images by expressing the unbounded imagination through creative ideas.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.133-149
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• 2005

Western designers have long been inspired by exotic and mysterious looks and feelings of non-western countries in their design works. The influence of Orientalism has been prevalent not only in fashion but also in overall aspects of Western cultures ad it dated back to the B.C period. Orientalism has been interpreted differently in different ages. Orientalism has been in effect since the strong emergence of Western powers beginning in the 13th century. There have been produced many studies to analyze the tradition of Western fashion under the framework of Orientalism, but most of them have focused on women's wear and the researches on men's wear have hardly been productive, particularly on men's skirts. This paper aims to analyze the restoration movement of men's skirt fashion in Western societies such as tin America and European countries from the standpoint of Orientalism and attempts to forecast its future. The paper shows how we can reveal the identity of the tradition of men's skirt in Western fashion by making a critical comparison between the pictures of western men's skirts and those found in the folk fashion tradition in non-western countries.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.327-338
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• 2001

The purpose of this thesis is to study the aspects of sex identity in the contemporary mens fashion expressed through sexual image and taste in the half of twentieth century. The aspects of sex identity expression in the contemporary mens fashion can be classified by image, that is, homosexual, heroic, bisexual, and fetish. 1. The homosexual image has shown the tendency to emphasize the masculinity since 1950.60s. It can be found in \"Cowboys costume\" which is typical of American traditional fashion, and jeans and underwear fashion expressed by muscular men has homosexual characteristics which contain narcissism. 2. Based on mens traditional gender role, the heroic image emphasizes mens physical characteristics and expresses tough and offensive masculine beauty in mens suit which is free from the authority and formality. 3. The bisexual image denied the division of gender role by costume and destroyed the traditional sex model by resolutely applying womens costume such as skirts to mens fashion. 4. The fetish image is similar to bisexual image in that they wear womens costume, but different in that it expresses sexual desire or fantasy. It is expressed through brilliant color, leather and metal ornaments, and sensual element of women which emphasizes \"body\". This shows the sex identity of contemporary men who want more sensible and free life.sible and free life.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.28-46
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• 2010

Variety and individuality are characteristic of consumer in modern society. For the necessity of new designed men's formal suit is on the rise with advance of party culture and change of wedding style. In addition to growing numbers of Korean grooms are getting more interested in make themselves well-groomed on the wedding ceremony. The purpose of this study is to develop the men's formal suit pattern for right fit and better style for Korean grooms. In order to find out how to modify their fit, comparison among the existing patterns was necessary. In this study we proposed new patterns of men's formal suit, a morning coat, a tail coat, tuxedoes, director's suit, three-peaces suit, navy blazer. Considering the results of this study, developed patterns were altered to fit better and to smarter. They were well graded in waistline position, shoulder shape, back princess line shape. Also they were best to move around sleeve and bodice. And the developed patterns were altered to make armhole narrower to make bodice length shorter, to make bodice slimmer. The researcher's pattern's were made up into garments using wool 100%, silk 100%. According to verify the improvements and grade better in both appearance and comport, it will be to take the lead men's formal dress culture and expand the base of popular consume for men's formal wear.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.125-133
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• 2006

Metro-Sexual is one of the most representing case showing contemporary life style of men that rooted into public already. The fundamental feature of this Metro-Sexual is the conversion of men's costume style to womanness which also could be seen from the history of clothes. The former works about sexual image, expression of sexual identity, androgynous and borderless phenomenon have been referred as base of this work. To analyze Metro-Sexual in modern social/cultural factors through such existing works will be critical part of understanding entire fashion trend in this day beyond sexual limit. As research method, former works, references, various fashion magazines and fashion related sites was used to grasp conception and womanity of Metro-Sexual. In a limited time interval from $2001{\sim}2006$ for practical work, silhouette, detail, trimming, colors, items, patterns and accessories were analyzed selected from famous S/S, F/W men's fashion collection magazine and internet site of professional fashion institute. It is obvious that Metro-Sexual already spread out in men's fashion based on such social/cultural background as new century's icon that regarded as critical factor in researching contemporary men's fashion and of the future.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제12권12호
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• pp.80-92
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• 2012

현대사회에서 뉴스는 신화와 같은 역할을 한다고 한다. 신화는 사람들이 세상을 이해하고 체험하는 의미의 틀을 제공하는데, 그 신화를 구성하는 데 미디어 뉴스가 큰 역할을 하기 때문이다. 그런 의미에서 본 연구는 남녀 고위직 경제인들이 신문보도 사진에 어떻게 재현되는지를 내용분석의 양적인 방법과 기호학적인 질적방법을 통해 분석하고자 하였다. 1990년 1월 1일부터 2011년 12월 31일까지 지난 20년간 조선일보에 실린 기획 인터뷰 및 인물중심 기사 가운데 여성 경제리더 사진 전수와 무작위로 뽑은 동일 수의 남성 경제리더 사진을 분석하였다. 분석결과 남성은 대체로 업무현장과 밀접한 배경에서 역동적이고 진지하게 묘사되었고, 인물의 이미지를 강하게 표현하는 바스트샷이 대부분을 구성하였다. 반면 여성들은 업무와 분리된 장식적인 배경 속에서 인위적인 포즈를 취하고 있는 전신사진을 통해 수동적인 객체로 재현되는 남성주의적 시각이 발견되었다.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.

• 대중서사연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.161-188
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• 2020

이 논문은 현대소설사 연구에서 잊힌 작가 곽하신의 소설세계의 전체 면모를 복원, 분석함으로써 문학사의 외연을 확장하고자 한다. 이를 위해 곽하신 작품세계의 단절 내지 비연속성에 주목하여 식민지기와 전후로 시기를 크게 분절하고, 각 시기 작품세계의 특징을 로컬(식민 시기), 룸펜(전후), 경제적 인간(전후 일부 단편, 장편대중소설)이라는 세 좌표를 중심으로 분석하고자 한다. 2장 '로컬-『문장』지의 세계관'에서는 30년대 후반 『문장』지에 집중 발표된 곽하신의 소설이 사라져가는 것들에 대한 비애, 전근대적인 시간의식, 로컬-향토에 대한 지향성을 뚜렷하게 드러냈다는 점에서 일제 말기 문학의 한 흐름인 반(反)근대의 미의식을 구현하였다고 평가하였다. 3장 '룸펜-전후 남성(성)의 형성(1)'과 4장 '만인에 대한 만인의 투쟁 상태, 경제적 인물의 등장-전후 남성(성)의 형성(2)'에서는 50년대 말 전쟁이라는 비상시국을 경유해 전후 저개발 자본주의 국가에 진입한 한국사회의 현실이 한편으로는 룸펜, 루저 남성으로, 다른 한편으로는 공리주의나 승자독식의 세계관을 체현한 남성이라는 대조적인 남성-젠더의 출현으로 형상화 된다고 파악했다. 50년대 말 '룸펜' 소설들은 한국 경제의 문제점을 허약한 남성(성)을 통해 보여주었다. 남성-젠더/지식인은 삶의 토대가 마련되지 못 한 전후 현실에서 자신의 무능력과 불안을 여성/아내에게 투사하거나 도덕이나 친밀성보다 생존을 도모하는 길을 취한다. 특히 4장에서 분석한 대중소설 <여인의 노래>, <무화과(無花果) 그늘>에는 입신출세를 위해 동료를 배신하거나, 음모를 꾸미거나, 연애관계를 이용하여 여성의 성을 착취하는 성취지향적인 남성인물, 만인에 대한 만인의 투쟁 상태를 체현한 경제적 인간들이 등장한다. 자신이 살아남기 위해서 남을 밟고 일어서야 하는 약육강식의 경제적 인간이 전후 남성 젠더로 구축되는 과정을 선악의 대립이라는 대중소설의 형식을 빌려 보여주는 것이다. 지금까지 살펴본 바와 같이 곽하신은 식민 시기 한국어로 글쓰기, 문학 하기의 마지막 세대에 해당한다는 점, 저널리즘적 세태묘사, 대중소설의 양식을 빌려 전후문학의 범례를 제공했다는 점에서 문학사의 주변에서 외연을 확장한 작가로 재평가될 필요가 있다.