• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2024

The safety of cosmetic ingredients is considered paramount. In order to enhance safety, a novel preservative, PE-gal, was bio-synthesized by utilizing the Escherichia coli enzyme 𝛽-galactosidase on the conventional preservative 2-phenoxyethanold (PE). The skin absorption of the bio-synthesized product, PE-gal, intended for use in cosmetics, was evaluated for permeability using the Franz Diffusion Cell Assay system, comparing it with the conventinal preservative PE. When using samples of the same mass concentration, the Flux and Kp values of PE increased over time, indicating a gradual increase in permeability. However, PE-gal did not exhibit sufficient permeability to measure. This suggests that the skin permeability of PE is higher than that of the PE-gal saccharide. According to Marzulli et al., when confirming the degree of permeation using Kp values, the permeation rate of PE was measured as "slow" at a concentration of 1mg/mL. Thus, the transdermal permeability of the divedened form of PE-gal was significantly lower compared to PE.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.9-18
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• 2024

Smilax china is known for its excellent antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. As a foundational study for applying the functionality of Smilax china extracts to cosmetics, it is necessory to investigate the concentration-dependent skin permation characteristics of the flavonoids in the extract, namely quercetin, catechin, and naringenin. Therefore, it serves as a crucial method for conducting this basic research on the functional aspects fo Smilax china extracts for cosmetic applications. This investigation focused on examining the percutaneous permeability characteristics of flavonoids originating from Smilax china. Applying Marzulli's definition, the Kp value of quercetin was categorized as "fast" at 0.1 mg/mL and "moderate" at 0.2 and 0.4 mg/mL. Notably, the permeation rate exhibited a decline with increasing concentration. For naringenin, Flux values were 0.69, 1.07, and 1.42 ㎍/hr/cm² at concentrations of 0.1, 0.2, and 0.4 mg/mL, respectively, with corresponding Kp values of 6.95, 5.34, and 3.56. Naringenin's Kp value fell into the "moderate" category across all concentrations, and as observed with quercetin, the permeation rate decreased with higher concentrations. Likewise, for catechin, Flux values were 0.75, 1.09, and 1.66 ㎍/hr/cm², and corresponding Kp values were 7.55, 5.46, and 4.16. Catechin's Kp value was consistently classified as "moderate" across all concentrations. The efficacy of quercetin, catechin, and naringenin, active ingredients in high-performance and anti-inflammatory Smilax china extracts, was found to exhibit skin penetration properties above the average. This confirms their suitability as excellent natural materials for use in functional cosmetics, given their outstanding capabilities in preventing acne and reducing inflammation.