• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.74-85
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• 1997

폴 푸아레 (1879-1944)가 패션 역사상 혁명적이라고 할 수 있는 여성의 코르셋을 제거시켰다는 것은 익히 알려진 사실이다. 그리고 그러한 결과로 인해 발생된 새로운 직선형의 실루엣에 화려한 색채와 장식을 하여 이전 시대와는 전혀 다른 현대패션의 근원이 되었다. 본 연구는 푸아레의 새로운 직선 실루엣과 화려한 색채와 경이적 장식의 근원이 다름아닌 동양이라는데 중점을 두었다. 이미 국내의 몇편의 논문에서 이러한 논의가 지적되어 왔으나 다른 논제를 다루는 중에 언급이 되었고 당시의 작품이나 동시대의 자료를 분석한 것이 아닌 근래의 출판물에 의존한 연구가 대부분이었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 그의 동양풍 디자인의 근원을 밝히는데 있어 가능한한 1 차적 자료의 접근을 시도하였다. 1912년 작품인 이브닝 드레스, 터번, 숄, 구두 각 1점과 그의 작품 의도와 생애의 추구를 말해주는 자서전(1930년 불어본 및 1931년 영어본)과 보그(Vogue)지의 기사(1920년 2월호, 9월호) 등을 통하여 그의 동양에 대한 관심을 살펴보았다. 그 결과 푸아레의 동양 영향의 근원은 19세기 말 유럽에서 절정을 이룬 'Sino-Japonism'(중국-일본주의)의 심취, 러시아 발레단의 의상과 색채, 천일야화의 영향에 의한 중동(페르시아)에 대한 열망, 그리고 인도 토민병의 복식에서 비롯된 터번에의 매료 등이었음을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 근원에서 탄생된 디자인으로는 직선형의 튜닉, 기모노 소매(처음엔 푸아레 자신도 중국의 것으로 혼동을 하기도 했지만), 하렘팬츠, 비대칭적인 카프탄식의 코트, 원색의 사용, 극동지역의 직물과 문양, 술장식, 터번 등으로 나타내었다. 따라서 폴 푸아레의 동양적인 관심은 단지 개인적 '취향 혹은 취미(taste)'가 아니라 한 시대양식으로 자리잡은 '동양주의(Orientalism)'라 할 수 있으며 이러한 푸아레의 동양주의는 당시의 패션에 있어 신체의 선을 부정하여 코르셋을 제거 시키게한 그의 모더니즘의 근거가 된다. 본연구의 제한점으로 1차적 자료를 수집하는데에 있어 보다 폭넓지 못했던 점을 밝혀둔다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.675-689
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• 2014

This study developed an ideal jeggings pattern with an improved body fit for 20-24 year old females. The results of the study are as follows. First, samples for wearing test were made using jegging patterns from three manufacturers; subsequently, one pattern with a relatively outstanding body fit was selected from the first test. The selected pattern suggested a tight knee, belly, and crotch, high front waist line, and low back waist line. The side lines were also lean to the front; consequently, the front hip width was extended for 0.5cm for more space around the belly and the extended front knee part for 0.2cm to increase moving suitability to fix the leaning side lines. A 1cm front waist line was extended for 0.5cm to fix it lower; in addition, the back waist line 3.0cm was extended for 0.5cm to heighten it. The crotch width was also extended for 0.5cm to add more space. The second wearing test for the fixed forms were evaluated for their outstanding features in appearance as well as moving functions that were proposed as final jeggings forms. The results of the study suggested a jeggings pattern with a better body fit using manufacturer patterns that can be used as basic data for pant patterns with better fitting using various stretch fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권4호
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• pp.615-632
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• 2017

This study conducted a wearing evaluation of fall impact protective clothing developed in the previous study that evaluated activity, appearance, and practicality for elderly women. A total of 6 kinds of pants, which consisted of the three kinds of pads and two kinds of designs, were evaluated and the results are as follows. First, the activity of the protective clothing was tested with six women in their 60's and scored highly in most criterions that indicated satisfactory activity. The honeycomb type pad was superior in four of ten criterions for the activity evaluation results by pad types. Design B without a knee pad was evaluated as more comfortable on two motions that put pressure on the knee area. Second, the expert group considered design A to be better than design B, while the subject group preferred design B over design A in design appearance evaluation. Both the subject group and expert group evaluated that design A is better than design B in consideration of pads. Third, in the assessment of practicability, both the expert group and the subject group provided the highest score on the question of if elderly women needed protective clothing. The evaluation of washing ability indicated no noticeable change in the clothing form and size before and after washing.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.791-802
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• 2006

The construction of athlete's tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is an interesting subject, which directly influences the performance of the wearer. Therefore, relationships between the reduction rates of the men's pants pattern obtained using measurements of Size Korea 2004 and clothing fitting were explored to improve clothing comfort. Two pattern making methods were developed and the reduction rates were applied to those pants depending on the parts of human body. The four male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales during 4 consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were kept four various postures including waist flexion and sitting etc by requests of the researchers. Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and 7 point indicates that it gave the best fit as tight-fitting pants. As results, differences in the length and girth between two piece pants pattern(style 1) and one piece pants pattern(style 2) were 0.0$\sim$0.3cm. Between two pattern making methods, one piece pants pattern(the style 2) was superior to two piece pants pattern in terms of subjective sensation and fit. Among eight tight-fitting pants, C, D, G, H pants were superior in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip part to the others. ill case of tight-fitting pants, the reduction rate of the pattern in the course direction, the reduction rate of T2/3(66%) was better than that of T/2(50%), but the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction, that of the part of crotch, which was very sensitive part, should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert(1988).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.284-293
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• 2015

This study intends to analyze the fit of directly-imported American casual pants for Korean female college students in terms of appearance and comfortableness. The authors carried out a wearing test with sample pants from 3 brands (DKNY: A, Gap: B, Polo: C) that had the most market share and that were mostly preferred by Korean female college students. Results showed that pants A had insufficient ease in the crotch, as the depth of the crotch was short. The hip girth received a low assessment in terms of appearance. Moreover, the hem widths were wide while the pants length was long. Pants B were expected to be most appropriate for Korean women's bodies, as they had the longest crotch depth among the three brands. However, the pants appeared to pull downward due to the narrow thigh and the knee girth and hem width. Moreover, the crotch girth and hip girth received a poor appearance assessment. Pants C were rated as satisfactory for their thigh girth, knee girth, and hem width. However, the crotch was uncomfortable, as it had a short crotch depth. The hip girth received a low appearance assessment. This study suggests that a pattern adjustment is required for directly-imported American pants to provide a better fit for the bodies of Korean women. The crotch depths should be approximately 17.5 cm. The hem widths should be approximately 20 cm. We also suggest a leg length of 75 cm, a waist girth of 86 cm, and a hip girth of 97 cm.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.246-260
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• 2013

This research was carried out on women in their 20s and 30s who have overweight lower body. The subjects selected for this study were women a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The aim is to propose a prototype of bi-stretch pants meeting demands for both functionality and aesthetic appeal. Various clothing patterns ease amount of the waist and hip circumferences and crotch depths and were developed. They had different crotch widths, and center back line angles. The results showed that the best pants patterns were ease 1cm to the total hip circumference. The front hip circumference was H/4-0.5cm, and the back hip circumference was H/4+1cm. The front crotch width was H/20+1cm, the back crotch width was H/10+3cm. No additional ease was given to the total waistline. The front waist circumference was W/4+0.5cm. The back waist circumference was W/4-0.5cm. The knee circumference was set at 44cm, the pant hem width was set at 36cm, and the pant length was set at 100cm-5cm. The findings of this research can be used as basic data for stretch pants that fit the abdomen, hips, and thighs for women in their 20s and 30s with overweight lower body.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.55-66
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• 2015

The objective of this study is to propose a method by which movement fitness can be evaluated using a three-dimensional virtual garment simulation program. To this end, five types of jean pants for men were evaluated on the program by setting the avatars to make particular movements to examine the level of pressure on each body part. To verify whether the clothing pressure measurement produces valid and reliable results, virtual garment simulation program was utilized. The results indicated that there were significant differences in the levels of pressure on body parts depending on the type of test garment and motion. In addition, the clothing pressure measurement results were in line with the appearance evaluation results suggested by a previous study. Based on this set of results, the nomological validity of the clothing pressure measurement program used in this study was verified. Moreover, we employed an appearance evaluation along with the clothing pressure measurement to verify the reliability of the program; there was a high correlation between clothing pressure measurements and appearance evaluation measurements, indicating that measuring clothing pressures may well compensate for the limitations of appearance evaluation. We expect the results of this study to make valuable contributions in facilitating the digitalization of the fashion industry. Furthermore, this study also is significant in that it has suggested 3D virtual fitting programs as a solution to the long-criticized problem related to the evaluation of movement fitness in existing virtual garment simulation programs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.227-236
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• 2015

This study analyzed the lower body type of 30's Korean men to develop a slim-fit pants pattern. As the analysis data, direct measurement data of anthropometric measured value in the 6th Size Korea(KATS, 2010) was used as basic data with 481 men in 30's as analysis objects. The result are as follows. First, the result of analyzing factors for the lower body type classification indicated five factors. Second, the result of executing group analysis (with the independent variable of 5 clusters extracted from the factor analysis)classified the following three types. Type 1(36.8%) displayed a medium height of lower body type, small waist and hip, slim and fit body type with a slim shape between the knee and ankle. The shape between the waist and hip had characteristics of a slight curve and short length. Type 2(35.6%) displayed lowest height of a lower body type that was large and thick between the waist and the hip. The drop value of the waist and the hip was small; therefore, the body type was flat with a minimal curve. The underpart type (below the knee) was the thickest and the length was short. Type 3(27.7%) displayed the highest lower body type, a medium level waist size, flat and narrow waist and belly. This body type had a curve with big drop value of the waist and the hip, lower part from the hip to the ankle (including the knee) and a thick calf with along leg.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.1-21
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• 2013

A study using compare and analyze about differences among three basic pants patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of comparison about total pants pattern shape, the ESMOD have two tucks of front and one dart of back and the Secoli and On&on have each dart of front and back. The results of estimation about total appearance, the On&on is the best of all pattern about total silhouette of front and back side and the ESMOD is the worst of all. In a case of the ESMOD, the thigh part has so many spaces between body and pants so it is rated low. When we examine about space between body and pants, amount of air gap of ESMOD is 0.6 at waist circumference and next is On&on(0.07). In case of hip circumference, the Secoli is 0.08 and the ESMOD is 0.14. The ESMOD's amount of air gap is 0.32 at thigh circumference and 0.62 at knee circumference. The Secoli's amount air gap is 0.26 at thigh circumference and 0.59 at knee circumference.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권9호
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• pp.1478-1486
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• 2008

The human body composed of concave and convex curvatures, and the current 3D scanning technology which involves inherent measurement errors make it difficult to extract distinct curvature plot directly. In this study, a method of extracting the clear curvature plot and its application to the cycling pants design were proposed. We have developed the ergonomic pattern from the 3D human body reflecting cycling posture. For the ergonomic design line on the 3D human body, the 3D information on the lower part of four male bodies with flexed posture was analyzed. The 3D scan data of four subjects were obtained using Cyberware. As results, the iteration of the tessellated shell was executed 100 times to obtain optimized curvature plots of the muscles on the body surface, and the boundaries of the curvature plots were applied to the design lines. Maximum(Max-pattern) and mean curvature plots(Mean-pattern) were adopted in the design line of the cycling pants, and performance of those lines was compared with that of conventional princess line(Con-pattern). The average error of total area and length in the 2D pattern developed from the 3D flexed body surface in this study were very minimal($4.58cm^2$(0.19%) and 0.15mm(0.46%)), which was within the range of tolerable limits in clothing production. The pattern obtained from the flexed body reflecting cycling posture already included the contraction and extension of the cycling skin, so that the extra ease for movement and good fit was not need to be considered.