• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권5호
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• pp.786-798
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• 2018

This study is based on anthropometric data from the 7th Size Korea, we selected five subjects with measurements similar to average women in their twenties. The subjects participated in adaptability assessments and appearance assessments of skinny jeans produced by 8 selected brands, to identify the pattern and measurements characteristics of jeans assessed to be superior in appearance and movement adaptability. The results of this study were as follows. First, according to the results of appearance assessment made by the specialist group, B brand earned the highest assessment in response to questions regarding if 'there is an appropriate amount of ease in the crotch area' on the front side and 'an appropriate amount of ease in the hip circumference area' on the back side. Based on the above results, Synthesizing the survey results and the appearance assessment and movement adaptability assessment results, we suggest that when drafting the pattern for the standard size of waist measurement 27 inches (67cm), the hip circumference should be given an appropriate amount of ease, of around -6.6cm (-7.2%). The thigh circumference should be set with an appropriate amount of ease, which is -5.3cm (-9.4%).

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.223-237
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• 2015

This study is to compare the pattern making methods of men's jeans and to analyze sizes of parts while also evaluating the appearance and fit according to a 3D virtual garment simulation. Five types of patterns are selected for the analysis. For the appearance evaluation, the study conducted a virtual clothing simulation, created a perspective drawing, and applied Clothing pressure to each test outfit. First, according to the pattern comparisons, A and D had the shortest crotch length, while B had the longest; B had the narrowest crotch width, while C had the widest; C had the greatest waist circumference, and B had the smallest; C had the greatest knee and hem circumference, while E had the smallest. Second, according to the appearance evaluation, E pants had the highest rating overall for the waist, crotch, knee, and hem comfort; A pants had the highest rating for the yoke line end and placement; and C pants had the highest rating for the side seam line. According to the correlation analysis, ease of the waist, hips, hem and thighs were important factors (in that order) in determining the overall appearance of the jean pants.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.675-689
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• 2014

This study developed an ideal jeggings pattern with an improved body fit for 20-24 year old females. The results of the study are as follows. First, samples for wearing test were made using jegging patterns from three manufacturers; subsequently, one pattern with a relatively outstanding body fit was selected from the first test. The selected pattern suggested a tight knee, belly, and crotch, high front waist line, and low back waist line. The side lines were also lean to the front; consequently, the front hip width was extended for 0.5cm for more space around the belly and the extended front knee part for 0.2cm to increase moving suitability to fix the leaning side lines. A 1cm front waist line was extended for 0.5cm to fix it lower; in addition, the back waist line 3.0cm was extended for 0.5cm to heighten it. The crotch width was also extended for 0.5cm to add more space. The second wearing test for the fixed forms were evaluated for their outstanding features in appearance as well as moving functions that were proposed as final jeggings forms. The results of the study suggested a jeggings pattern with a better body fit using manufacturer patterns that can be used as basic data for pant patterns with better fitting using various stretch fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.227-236
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• 2015

This study analyzed the lower body type of 30's Korean men to develop a slim-fit pants pattern. As the analysis data, direct measurement data of anthropometric measured value in the 6th Size Korea(KATS, 2010) was used as basic data with 481 men in 30's as analysis objects. The result are as follows. First, the result of analyzing factors for the lower body type classification indicated five factors. Second, the result of executing group analysis (with the independent variable of 5 clusters extracted from the factor analysis)classified the following three types. Type 1(36.8%) displayed a medium height of lower body type, small waist and hip, slim and fit body type with a slim shape between the knee and ankle. The shape between the waist and hip had characteristics of a slight curve and short length. Type 2(35.6%) displayed lowest height of a lower body type that was large and thick between the waist and the hip. The drop value of the waist and the hip was small; therefore, the body type was flat with a minimal curve. The underpart type (below the knee) was the thickest and the length was short. Type 3(27.7%) displayed the highest lower body type, a medium level waist size, flat and narrow waist and belly. This body type had a curve with big drop value of the waist and the hip, lower part from the hip to the ankle (including the knee) and a thick calf with along leg.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.873-886
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• 2014

This study conducted a survey on jean pants that targeted males in the 20s in order to select preferred brands for skinny jean pants. Preliminary data for the pattern development of skinny jean pants was presented through functionality evaluation, appearance evaluation and pattern analysis. The results were as follows. 1. The result of survey targeting males in the 20s to select the design and brand name of jean pants showed that skinny jean pants were selected as the most favorite type of jean pants to wear; in addition, non-brand products and brand names such as Uniqlo and Levi's were also preferred. 2. The result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand received a high score in all items except for items regarding the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference, S brand received a high score as well as a low score, and N brand received a low score in general. The result of appearance evaluation showed that L brand for the waist height and waist circumference, N brand for the brand crotch circumference, posterior crotch length and knee circumference, and S brand and N brand for the length of pants were preferred. 3. The result of pattern measurements analysis from the result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand provided a large pattern measurement for the waist height, L brand provided less ease due to small pattern measurements for waist circumference; in addition, N brand for the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference were preferred. 4. The analysis result shows that a ease of 5cm based on the belly band which is 3.5cm below the belt width is proper for the waist circumference when designing a skinny jean pant pattern and 4cm for the hip circumference and 32.5cm for the ease of crotch circumference are proper, -0.4-0cm for the ease of mid-thigh circumference and knee circumference in consideration of human body measurements; therefore, 80.1-80.5cm for inseam as the length from the crotch height to the leg length, 25.7cm for vertical hip length and 53.0cm for crotch length are proper.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

국내 패션관련 교육기관은 대부분은 졸업작품 쇼를 행하고 있는데, 학생들이 직접 제작하는 작품 쇼의 경우는 시간적, 경제적 인 여유 부족과 정확한 모델 치수 및 이에 따른 인대와 원형패턴의 부재로 의상 제작 후, 사이즈 수정에 많은 시간을 허비하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구는 대학의 졸업작품 진행 과정의 문제점과 필요한 원형의 종류를 조사하고, 현역 A급 모델의 신체 치수를 계측하여 표준 사이즈를 조사하였다. 이를 토대로 아이템에 따른 원형을 제작, 이를 현역 모델에 착장하여 졸업 쇼를 위한 기본 패턴을 제시하고자 하였다. 졸업작품 쇼는 학교에 따라 진행하는 과정과 기간에 차이를 보이지만 대부분 모델 가봉 후 수선 정도가 많고 경우에 따라서는 의상을 새로이 제작하여야하는 경우도 발생하여 모델 사이즈의 기본원형에 대한 필요성이 많이 나타났다. 모델의 신체 계측결과 모델은 일반인에 비해 슬림하고 가는 체형이며 키가 크고 다리가 길다. 여자의 경우 어깨너비가 일반인에 비해 넓지만 가슴둘레와 허리둘레는 더 가늘게 나타났으며 어깨를 편 바른 자세여서 뒷품과 앞품의 차이가 적었다. 이는 남자 모델의 경우도 같게 나타났고 전체적으로 다리길이와 소매길이의 비율이 크게 나타났다. 여자의 경우 토르소와 스커트, 바지패턴을, 남자의 경우 재킷과 바지 패턴을 머슬린으로 제작하여 현재 활동 중인 A급 남녀 모델 각각 2명씩에게 착장하였다. 제작원형들은 그 맞음새가 모두 적절하였고 남녀 모두 상의 경우는 편차가 적은 어깨너비는 고정하고 품과 둘레항목에서 편차를 주어 패턴을 수정하는 것이 바람직하다. 하의의 경우 여자 모델은 엉덩이 부분에 여유가 없는 바지원형을 설계 제시하고, 이는 타이트 핏 팬츠나 스트레치 소재에 사용에 적절하고 여유 있는 바지의 경우는 엉덩이둘레 폭과 밑위너비 폭에 변화를 주는 것이 바람직하다. 남자모델의 경우 하의는 비교적 잘 맞아 수정이 필요한 부분이 없었으며 전체적인 둘레 편차 역시 3cm 내외로 작아 수정의 폭은 작다. 다만 키에 따른 다리길이 편차가 심해 모델에 따라 길이조정 이 필요하지만 전체적인 맞음새에 영향을 주지 않았다. 이와 같이 본 연구에서 제안한 모델 치수는 현재 우리나라에서 활동하고 있는 A급 모델을 기준으로 제안되었으므로 평균적인 모델 치수와 근접하다고 할 수 있다. 또한 연구패턴 역시 현재 모델의 신체에 적절하게 잘 맞았으며 모델 개인에 따른 신체 치수의 편차에 따라 차이를 보이겠지만 본 연구에서 제시된 패턴의 품 조절만으로도 충분히 잘 맞는 패턴으로 사료된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권1호
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• pp.43-59
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• 2017

This study used data from a survey of adult Korean women in their twenties to learn their current practices for wearing and purchasing tight-fit jeans available on the market as well as perceptions regarding size measurements and satisfaction levels. We then determined product sizes and pattern measurements for the type of jeans worn. This study also analyzed discrepancies in product size measurements among brands to determine whether the measurements were generally suitable for average body shapes and measurements of women in their twenties. The study results were as follows. First, the survey asked women in their twenties about current practices in wearing jeans. Many respondents answered that their preferred fit is "a perfectly snug fit" and that the most common fit style of jeans was the skinny fit. Second, we selected a test pair of jeans with an identical fiber content from brands that women prefer to wear, according to the survey results. We researched the product measurements of the size respectively labeled 27 inches for each of the 8 brands' test jeans; consequently, the results showed that there were significant differences among the brands in the product measurements of each part of jeans. Third, we analyzed the pattern measurements of 8 selected brands for each area and identified pattern characteristics by brand.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.791-802
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• 2006

The construction of athlete's tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is an interesting subject, which directly influences the performance of the wearer. Therefore, relationships between the reduction rates of the men's pants pattern obtained using measurements of Size Korea 2004 and clothing fitting were explored to improve clothing comfort. Two pattern making methods were developed and the reduction rates were applied to those pants depending on the parts of human body. The four male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales during 4 consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were kept four various postures including waist flexion and sitting etc by requests of the researchers. Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and 7 point indicates that it gave the best fit as tight-fitting pants. As results, differences in the length and girth between two piece pants pattern(style 1) and one piece pants pattern(style 2) were 0.0$\sim$0.3cm. Between two pattern making methods, one piece pants pattern(the style 2) was superior to two piece pants pattern in terms of subjective sensation and fit. Among eight tight-fitting pants, C, D, G, H pants were superior in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip part to the others. ill case of tight-fitting pants, the reduction rate of the pattern in the course direction, the reduction rate of T2/3(66%) was better than that of T/2(50%), but the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction, that of the part of crotch, which was very sensitive part, should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert(1988).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권9호
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• pp.1478-1486
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• 2008

The human body composed of concave and convex curvatures, and the current 3D scanning technology which involves inherent measurement errors make it difficult to extract distinct curvature plot directly. In this study, a method of extracting the clear curvature plot and its application to the cycling pants design were proposed. We have developed the ergonomic pattern from the 3D human body reflecting cycling posture. For the ergonomic design line on the 3D human body, the 3D information on the lower part of four male bodies with flexed posture was analyzed. The 3D scan data of four subjects were obtained using Cyberware. As results, the iteration of the tessellated shell was executed 100 times to obtain optimized curvature plots of the muscles on the body surface, and the boundaries of the curvature plots were applied to the design lines. Maximum(Max-pattern) and mean curvature plots(Mean-pattern) were adopted in the design line of the cycling pants, and performance of those lines was compared with that of conventional princess line(Con-pattern). The average error of total area and length in the 2D pattern developed from the 3D flexed body surface in this study were very minimal($4.58cm^2$(0.19%) and 0.15mm(0.46%)), which was within the range of tolerable limits in clothing production. The pattern obtained from the flexed body reflecting cycling posture already included the contraction and extension of the cycling skin, so that the extra ease for movement and good fit was not need to be considered.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.133-146
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• 2021

It is important to conduct an anthropometric study to develop garment patterns to accommodate the changes found in the body size and type of men in their 30s, to effectively address fit dissatisfaction. Thus, this study aims to explore changes in the lower body sizes and body types of men in their 30s, and provide basic measurements for designing pants patterns. For this purpose, key anthropometric dimensions for the lower body of men in their 30s, which were acquired by the 6th (2010) and 7th (2015) survey conducted by Size Korea, were analyzed using SPSS 24.0 for Windows. Independent sample t-tests were conducted on major lower body sizes to track changes over time. Factor and cluster analyses were used to classify lower body types. From the comparison of the 6th (2010) and 7th (2015) surveys, it was found that the overall lower body size of men in their 30s were increasing in the height-related aspects, circumference, thickness, and width-as well as body weight and BMI. The five factors were derived to determine the typical lower body types of men in their 30s and the body types were classified into three categories through cluster analysis: (1) those with the largest body size, body volume, and obesity, (2) those with smallest body size, lower body volume, and obesity degree, visually the most skinny type, (3) those with BMI and weight that are the smallest, like Type 2, but the main circumference of the lower body is lower. In order to visually look at the statistical analysis, results were presented by producing a avatar based on the main lower body values.