• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.63-73
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to be of use for more successful prediction of possible Prevailing aesthetic characteristics in the future, by reviewing how decadent features have actually been unfolded in fashion and make-up since the end of 20th century, as we are now in the new 21st century. The decadent traits of modern fashion and make-up since the late'90s could be listed as follows : first, the fashion has intentionally been designed to look disgusting, where realistic and imaginary images coexist, by using a half-man, half-machine image or vividly describing detestable animal skin, There have also been disgusting features in the make-up, which are so extremely weird that we can created by adding vinyl or pieces of textiles like Patch of the 17th century. Second, the satanic character of the fashion seems to be meant to keep in harmony with evil image such as Dracula, witch, skeleton or warrior of the evil, in order to charge the unnatural, inhuman and fin-de-siecle Phenomenon and find out what It really means for the inner world of men. And the demonic expressions of the make-up chiefly use white or black color or blue color of low saturation or low lightness, and part of facial features is exaggerated or shortchanged. Third, the decadent characteristics are expressed in the fashion by attaching sensational ornament to the human bode or using sexual exposure. So they give unnatural, unsound and extremely erotic impressions. The decadent features in the make-up are generated by excessively using a gay red color or sensational, exciting colors. Fourth, the exoticism of the fashion is largely affected by China's Chipaoh, Japan's Kimono or primitive motives from Africa, as there are increasing interests in Asia. And that of the make-up leans toward the East, as Kabuki make-up from Japan, Kyongkeuk make-up from China or the primitive features from Africa are employed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.120-135
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• 2010

Since emotion, creativity, and imagination has become the source of creating added value, the purpose of this study is to grasp the concept of high concept which has appeared as a major key word of modern culture and analyze the types of emotional expression found in modern fashion. Study methods were focused on literature review and case study. The literature review was conducted by news stories at home and abroad. The examples of case study were collected in fashion collection journals and related Internet web sites with their focus on from 2000 S/S to 2009 F/W to analyze emotional expression found in high concept-reflected fashion. The concept of 'high concept' suggested by Pink, Daniel H. lays on stress on ability to creative emotional value or cultural artistic value hidden behind the functional value, to make stories, and to combine ideas which do not seem to be connected with existing things. As a result of study, The forms of emotional expression found in high concept-reflected fashion included: art collaboration and art inspiration which were expressed through cross-category of culture and art; multi-culture design which expresses a mixture between western fashion and oriental costumes; funology design which expresses efficient value by high technology and fun value through humorous elements; and emotional digital design which can be transformed in function, shape and the use of materials representing light which is effectively used for fashion to represent fantasy or illusion connected with digital technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.85-99
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• 2011

Geometrical figures have been used as artwork motifs from the ancient times to the present day. The area of fashion, being a part of modern art, is also largely influenced by geometry and geometrical shapes are being used as a motif for fashion design now more than ever before. However, studies about geometry in the fashion field are not yet done enough and further research is necessary. This research will therefore investigate the usages of round, square and triangular design in contemporary fashion. The main scope of this research is to look at the type of expression and analyze the intrinsic meanings of these shapes in modern fashion. This research will look profoundly into the general characteristics of these geometrical figures and analyze the effects and uniqueness found in the world collection introduced since 2007. As a result from this study, it was found that round and square objects were perceived in such a straightforward and positive way and these designs, when worn, really completed the final look. On the other hand, the triangular design was used mainly for spatial expansion and was interpreted in a more metaphorical, indirect and abstract way. The intrinsic meaning of round, square and triangle figures in contemporary fashion consists of the informal features that really steps out of the formative clothing structure. The topological changes that is formed from the interactive functions and the wholism that creates a new system through integration of the human body and clothing contains the intrinsic meaning of these geometrical figures. Based on the research results, the method of expression and the characteristics of modern day fashion's geometrical figures was able to be easily understood. This work provides the useful information on the development of fashion design and the extended interpretation of clothing structure.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.682-693
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• 2013

Camouflage is evaluated by scientific principle in the fields of biology, military science, and art. It has a strong influence on contemporary fashion and means exposure with concealment. This study analyzed the visual characteristics of camouflage patterns in fashion design through documentaries and fashion photos. The fashion design results areas follow. The simple blending of a disruptive motif indicated an inaccurate repetition of a disruptive motif, the discontinuous or continuous connection of disruptive motif, the irregular repetition of a disruptive animal silhouette, the collage of a different disruptive motif, the craft of a disruptive motif and the intensive color match of a disruptive motif. It represented the maximization of complication, fantastic and fanciness. The overlap of a disruptive motif showed the overlap of disruptive print patterns with transparency and an overlap of different fabrics with a disruptive pattern. It represented spatial relationships of three dimensions as well as the maximization of visual illusion and the reinforcement of attractiveness. The blurring of a disruptive motif showed the pointage of disruptive motif, the pointage of image, value gradation, the whole blurring of a disruptive pattern cluster and stained appearance. It represented the obscurity of motif form, the uncertainty of object and double meaning. The trompe l'oeil of a partial background object showed the realistic and the painterly imitation of color and texture for partial objects through a close-up. It represented amazement and pleasure by illusion, scarcity and the decoration of surface and synecdochical remind. In conclusion, camouflage in fashion was weakened and modified from a classical military context by a unique expression of various motifs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.126-156
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze mechanical beauty of the art style represented on the second half of the 20th century fashion. From the early 20th century, when the mechanical civilization began to develop in full scale, various distinctive styles of art began to emerge by the denial of the traditional artistic style, which is said to be an inevitable consequence fo the 20th century's spirit. That is, the diversified styles of modern art, which has developed in line with the rapid growth of civilizations, experienced environmental pollution, non-humanization and un-individualization. Those phenomena became mental anguish for artists and designers, they have come to meet with changes, by their efforts to find new way. SO, the mechanical beauty is becoming a very important factor arts. Especially, the collage of the Cubism have used as art techniques of positive mechanical beauty. And in the transition from Dada to Surrealism, the objects provided an important harmony, suggesting that all things, even those achieved by chance or presented in new associations or radical dissociations, could be said to have meaning. Pop Art that expressed daily living of spending culture in the post industrial society, scaled up the induction of mass media which was much more realistic than Dada or Surrealism. According to the results of this study, the second half of the 20th century fashion has generated mechanical beauty was examined and plundered by modern art styles. The mechanical beauty of modern art was represented in the modern fashion as the positive and negative formativeness. Above all, the best way that the fashion design should take in the future, is in the search of ways how to restore humanity that was lost due to use of machine, how t develop its merits and how to harmonized with mechanical civilization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.21-32
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to establish the idea of sustainable slow design by analyzing literatures and preceding cases, based on the external elements of a design including forms, the methods of expression, materials and colors. This study reviewed the previous literature of books and pictures related to the research for case studies and content analysis. fashion books, magazines, and web-sites published from 2000 to 2005 were analyzed for this research. The sustainable slow design trends in fashion can be summarized as follow. The first is a timeless style which has sustain ability in design independently of the versatile fads and relies on functionality, serving the purpose of design. One of the examples is both clothes designed by Burberry and suits by Chanel. The second is a hand-touch style which the more time for outputs can be positively tolerated, in favor on eco-friendly design through the techniques of manual arts. The third is a renewable design which the combined values of design with reuse and renewal result in recreation of past ecology as shown in the technique of designs by mix & match. The forth is a transformable design which features the multi-purpose and multi-forms, eventually extending the lift cycle of products. As a result of analysis of the four designs above, it can be inferred that the representation of past styles, the mixture of old design with new design, the appropriate combination of conventional fabrics with advanced ones, the ecological trends of sports look was emerging.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.137-147
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• 2019

The purpose of this study, I investigate the new trend, 'new-tro', through the music video costumes of young generations, and analyze the meaning and characteristics of 'new-tro'. The research method is, select 30 music video with new-tro fashion style on the music sites, and the fashion styles were analyzed in 11 music videos checked and selected by 100 students. As a definition of the term, 'retro' refers to a phenomenon in which the past reappears in modern time, and 'new-tro' is a new retro trend, a social phenomenon that enjoys the old with a modern sense, and is a compound word of 'new' and 'retro'. 'new-tro' is a modern reinterpretation and rebirth of the past style, and 'fu-tro' is a style of coexistence between the past and the future. In the music video, fashion is a media language and cultural code, and it creates trend or new fashion, that communicates with the public, stimulating emotions. As a result of the research, the common trend phenomenon expressed in the music video costume of 'new-tro' trend which appeared in 2000s is as follows. 1. New-tro style starts with items that were famous in the past. 2. It is one of postmodern marketing using color, print and logo. 3. It spreads quickly by the influence of culture that is characteristic of the Internet and SNS world. 4. It is bottom up propagation phenomenon of street fashion. 5. It is a time game where modern people connect the past with the present. 6. "new-tro" continues to evolve for that time, based on 'retro'. New-tro, an evolutionary version of the 21st century retro wave. and it is a key to marketing effectiveness as a sympathetic elements of 1020 generations with the reproduction of memories.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.113-127
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• 2021

This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.252-271
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.