• Archives of design research
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.25-33
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• 1998

A Study on the Plasticity of the Gather Represented in Haute Couture The Gather is the plastic technique to represent a sense of voluminosity by pleating the plane of costume and manifests the emotional effects , such as both functional aspects and the construction of form, optical illusion effect, textural feelings from materials, tactile transformations, etc. So it is used as the tool to represent the plastistic beauty of costume. The plasticity of the ancient gather was the drape arising according to the curve of the body, but the type of gather recently found on the haute couture does not only retain the activity and functionalism on which the technical element and the ornamental aspect are mixed with other techiques.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.100-114
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of supermodern fashion designer's work, which is shown by responding to supermodern environment where non-spaces such as road, railroad and airport are surplus in modern city environment. For the study, the researcher used existing study and specialized book basically and analyzed photograph materials by selecting them in specialized fashion book, internet site and designer's homepage. The results of this study showed that supermodern fashion design is the functional fashion responding to the change of time and space concept of supermodern society directly. As the common points of supermodern designer's works, first, they try to create private space enabling wearer to cope with risk caused by the environmental change and transitional space by adding architectural factor to fashion. Second, they display the design with protective function and metaphorical expression of concealment and deception in the supermodern environment where nonspace is increasing. Third, designers search the functional design from the aspect of fabric and detail while intending the technology in order to cope with supermodern environment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.93-116
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• 2013

This paper explored and compared the textile pattern and motive design of fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections. In particular, this study put it focus on textile pattern design of seven fashion design brands such as Roverto Cavalli and Versace, etc., which were collaborated with H&M. The color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern drawing technique were collected from fashion internet sites over the five year period, and then were cross-sectionally examined and compared based on their color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern drawing technique of products between fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections. The analyses showed the following results: First, the similar color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern were found between fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections, in order to show the perspective texture of products to consumers. Second, H&M collaboration brands demonstrated unique textile design of H&M rather than the trendy design patterns. Finally, the textile design pattern used in H&M collection was more restricted in terms of motive expression technique and chromaticity than that used in fashion designers' brands.

• 한국HCI학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2006.02b
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• pp.524-529
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• 2006

짧은 기간에 비약적으로 기술이 발전하는 시대에는 사용자의 미래환경과 그에 따른 사용자의 행태를 미리 분석할 수 있는 방법이 절실히 요구된다. 본 연구에서는 블루투스 핸즈프리 헤드셋의 UI 디자인 개발을 위해 사용된 사용자의 제품 사용행태 예측 과정을 통해 그 방법론을 제시하고자 한다. 1 차로 블루투스 핸즈프리 헤드셋 사용자가 그것을 사용하는 사용행태를 조사 분석하였으며, 조사의 결과를 인터랙티브 스토리텔링의 방법으로 구성하여 아이디어개발을 위한 보조도구로 개발하였다. 조사의 대상은 블루투스 헤드셋의 주요 사용자 층인 10 대 후반에서 20 대 중반에 속하는 사용자 그룹이며 블루투스 헤드셋으로 변용 가능한 패션 액세서리를 선정하고 선정한 액세서리를 블루투스 핸즈프리 헤드셋으로 가정하여 사용시의 그들의 사용 포즈를 분석하는 방법을 통해 주사용자 층의 사용행태를 예측하고자 하였다. 이 연구의 결과는 블루투스 헤드셋 개발팀내의 기획자, 기술자, 디자이너들이 제품의 개발 방향에 대한 아이디어 공유를 위하여 Macromedia Flash 를 사용하여 인터랙티브 스토리텔링으로 제작하여 디자인을 위한 보조 툴로 제안하였다. 본 연구는 블루투스 핸즈프리 헤드셋과 같이 사용자의 새로운 요구와 사용성이 기대되는 제품 UI 디자인을 위해서는 사용자의 미래 요구사항을 예측 할 수 있는 방법이 필요하다는 배경에서 시작되었으며, 블루투스 핸즈프리 헤드셋의 사용자의 요구 파악 및 예측을 위한 방법으로 제품과 사용자의 사용 포즈를 연계하여 분석하는 방법을 제안하였다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• Journal of Information Technology Services
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.119-139
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• 2023

Generation MZ has emerged as a significant consumer segment and trendsetter in the fashion market of South Korea. Fashion designer brands have become popular among this generation by offering a range of fashion content on social network services (SNS) based on fresh and trendy designs. Despite the growing market share of fashion designer brands in the industry, previous research has mainly focused on brand personality in line with the characteristics of traditional fashion brands. Therefore, this study aims to derive brand personality and SNS characteristics of fashion designer brands based on previous research and investigate the influence of these factors on brand preference and behavioral intention. Moreover, it examines how this influencing mechanism fluctuates based on the consumer type (i.e., innovative type vs. price-sensitive type). Based on an online survey of 256 Korean adults with experience in fashion designer brands, this study identified the influencing mechanisms on purchase intention and word-of-mouth intention. This study contributes to empirical investigations of consumer brand preference and behavior intention in fashion designer brands through the brand equity model. It also offers insight into developing a segmented brand strategy by considering the variations in the influence mechanism of behavioral intention across different consumer types.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.898-918
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• 2022

Contemporary fashion research has paid increasing attention to the sublimity in the context of postmodernism. Sublimity is considered essential in contemporary fashion design as it arouses complex emotions which verbal expression cannot describe. Therefore, contemporary fashion designs need to be interpreted in terms of the sublimity. Through a detailed review of literature, the present study discusses Kantian and Lyotardian sublimity as main theories representing conventional and cotemporary concepts of sublimity. This paper selected five Korean fashion designers who won the prize of Samsung Design Fund from 2006 to 2019 and actively introduce their works every year. Images were collected to analyze their designs introduced from 2018 S/S to 2019F/W at their website. In addition, formative and color characteristics were analyzed to identify the changing features of s sublimity. Major findings of analyses are as follows. First, all designers' collections reflected both male and female sublimity with the respect to its formative characteristics. Color characteristics of sublimity indicated that Jeong, Wook Jun's collections represented features of male sublimity and other designers works showed elements of female sublimity. Essentially, the typical contemporary concept of the sublimity was found in the designs of Seo, Hye In. Consequently, female sublimity is more inclusive than male sublimity, while being opened to otherness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.996-1011
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• 2023

This study introduces an effective marketing strategy for fashion SMEs and small designer brands utilizing Instagram as a social networking platform. The research compared the impact of two information delivery types (native advertisements vs. live streaming after native ads) and two types of promotional messages (scarcity vs. price discount) on SNS consumption value, and product attitude toward fashion designer brands. The study involved surveying 251 Korean women aged 25-55 with experience in buying designer products and using SNS. Data analysis was conducted using SPSS 26.0 and Process Macro v3.5. Results indicated that both native advertisements and live streaming enhance economic and social values in SNS consumption. Live streaming with price discount messages generates higher perceived SNS consumption values compared to scarcity messages. Consumers showed a more favorable attitude toward designer brand products when watching the live streaming of price discount messages rather than scarcity messages. The findings emphasize that the broadcast host actively induced participation to reveal viewers' social presence through comments or emphasized discount messages such as ultra-special prices during live streaming on Instagram.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.1 s.59
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• pp.167-174
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• 2005

This study is to objectively support the emotional and intuitional decision making of the designer by means of developing the supporting models and tools of color coordination. Based on the color grouping system and representative vocabularies suggested in the precedent 'Study on the Grouping System of Fabric Color,' this study suggested the manufacture of the supporting model of color coordination that could be used practically through the design of coloring group. The results of this study can be summarized as below. Firstly, 687 colors in total have been collected from the four world famous collections, the street fashion of 2002 F/W 2003 S/S Season and the representative brands in each group for five years from 1999 to 2003 in order to single out the basic colors for the purpose of composing the color groups. Secondly, 687 collected colors have been grouped into 144 colors in total through the three-step process for the extraction of coloring groups. Thirdly, the final extracted colors have been divided into , , , group by the grouping system specified in the precedent study and the said four large groups have been again subdivided into 12 small groups. Fourthly, the suggested colors in each group have established a color coordination system by introducing the concept of the crossover coordination that could be matched with other groups as well as the coordination within the group. Fifthly, we have dyed 144 colors in total that have consisted of the coloring system of four representative groups (twelve subgroups) in each methodical tone as in the above in cotton yarn, one of the representative materials in fabric fashion design industry. Besides, we have specified the symbol of the Pantone Color Book and CMYK values in each color that has consisted of the system considering the industrial characteristics of fashion as a global business and the compatibility with the related design industry. Sixthly, we have packed the completed yam made of fabrics in the designed container for the easy use of cross-coordination and have completed a color coordination system that could be easily utilized for the fashion-related working-level staffs.