• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.183-194
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• 2013

In recent years, intense cold spells caused by climate change have encouraged an increasing number of people to wear a variety of padded jackets. In this context, this paper aims to address the production of padded jackets in casual brands and to develop basic patterns for well-fitted padded jackets targeted toward women in their 20s. The study centered on the production of padded jackets from 13 apparel companies. In addition, three sample jackets were created with 3oz. fill in the body and 2oz. fill in the sleeves, and they were subjected to a wearing test to determine their movement functionality. The research findings were as follows. Woven jackets constituted 53.4% of the winter jackets produced by casual brands; padded jackets accounted for 25.3%, leather jackets 12.6%, and other jackets 8.7%. Thus, data showed that padded jackets accounted for a considerable proportion of overall winter jacket production. Based on the wearing test results, the basic measurements of a padded jacket for women in their 20s were as follows: bust girth of B/4+3cm front length and B/4+3.5cm back length; waist girth of W/4+3.1 cm front length and W/4+1.9cm back length; and hip girth of H/4+3.3cm front length and H/4+2.8cm back length. The jacket length was set at 62.8cm, with a 63.8cm sleeve length. This study concluded that providing padded jacket manufacturers with basic pattern designs for a well-fitted jacket is expected to boost the efficiency of pattern design processes and the production of padded jackets.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.755-764
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• 2013

This study intends to use the basic patterns in 3oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets made for women in their 20s to research the proper ease of 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets. The study also proposes a method of designing padded jacket patterns according to padding thickness. The results of this study are as follows: The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets had the following sizes. The front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+2.5cm and B/4+3cm, W/4+2.6+3.3(D)cm and W/4+1.5+2.6(D)cm, and H/4+2.8cm and H/4+3cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 62.4cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 63.4cm. For the 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets, the front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+4cm and B/4+4cm, W/4+4.1+3(D)cm and W/4+2.5+3.6(D)cm, and H/4+4.3cm and H/4+4cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 63.2cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 64.2cm. The results of this study showed that padded jackets with thicker padding need more ease. For jackets with stitches, the decreased lengths must be added in the pattern length. The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets all scored 4 points or higher in the movement functionality assessment, thus showing outstanding movement functionality.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.261-272
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• 2021

The purpose of the present study was to evaluate the thermal insulation of air-filled winter jackets according to the amount of air-filler using a thermal manikin. The insulation of these jackets' was compared to a down padded jacket with an identical design and size. The amounts of air-filler were 100% (26,219 cm³), 70% (18,645 cm³), 50% (13,110 cm³), and 0% (0 cm³). The results showed that a clothing insulation (Icl) of 0%, 50%, 70%, and 100% air, and 100% down jackets was 0.208, 0.243, 0.207, 0.176, and 0.315 clo, respectively. In addition, the down jacket with waisttaped had a clothing insulation of 0.369 clo. However, the highest value of clothing insulation per clothing weight was the 50% air-filled jacket in all conditions. In terms of regional power consumption of the thermal manikin, the down jacket consumed less power for the shoulder and chest than the air-filled jackets. In conclusion, in order to maximize the thermal insulation of air-filled jackets, an optimal amount of air-filler, that is, an amount which does not compromise (break) the layer of inner air between the surface of manikin and the lining of the jacket, should be explored. Further studies on lining materials, end-closed design, and changes in thermal insulation under the conditions of strong wind or heavy snow are recommended.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.703-713
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• 2021

This study was to investigate the thermal insulation of clothing ensembles, including padded jackets with two different filling types. Thermal insulation of the ensemble was measured using a thermal manikin in four conditions (10℃, 30% RH and 20℃, 50% RH with an air velocity of less than 0.15 m·s^-1 and 1.5 m·s^-1). Ten males participated at 10℃ and 30% RH with an air velocity of less than 0.15 m·s^-1 and 1.5 m·s^-1. The results showed that the polyester ensemble was warmer than a goose down ensemble in 0.15 m·s^-1 conditions and the goose down ensemble had greater thermal insulation than the polyester ensemble at an air velocity of 1.5 m·s^-1. Thermal insulation was reduced 5-7% when temperature decreased 10℃ and reduced 40-50% when air velocity reached 1.5 m·s^-1 for both ensembles. Thermal insulation of the ensemble in human trials decreased more than a thermal manikin at 10℃, 30% RH with an air velocity of 1.5 m·s^-1. Lower temperatures and human trials were effective in identifying the properties of the thermal insulation by filling types even though there were restrictions on the general application because of two types of a clothing ensemble.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권12호
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• pp.1939-1949
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• 2008

본 연구의 목적은 파리, 런던, 뉴욕, 서울에서의 2006년 F/W 스트릿 패션을 고찰하여 다문화권적 현 추세에서 지역별 이질성 및 유사성을 확인하는 것으로 마켓에 있는 현재의 패션 트렌드를 이해하는 것에 중점을 두었다. 사진촬영법에 의하여 4개 지역의 패션 스트릿에서 같은 기간 동안 $20{\sim}50$대 여성들로 추정되는 대상들의 착장을 디지털 카메라를 사용하여 촬영한 후 데이터로 사용할 수 있는 신뢰성 있는 사진들로부터 필요한 정보를 SPSS에 입력하고 그 결과를 분석하였다. 런던/파리, 뉴욕, 서울로 마켓 지역을 세분화하여 고찰한 결과 서울은 서구 지역과는 달리 외의의 색상에서도 블랙이 강세이기 보다는 화이트, 베이지 계열이 높은 퍼센트를 차지하였고, 하의도 진이 주류를 이루었으며 투명한 스타킹 착용자가 많아 외모지향을 그대로 표출하였다. 상의 외투의 재료에 있어서는 런던/파리, 뉴욕, 서울은 유사하게 울 또는 그와 비슷한 소재가 강세를 이루었으나 뉴욕의 경우에는 검정색 힙 길이의 패딩 재킷과 스키니 바지를 입는 착장이 다른 지역보다 좀더 두드러져 차이를 보였다. 그러나 바지의 경우 전체적으로 스키니가 강세이며 런던/파리, 뉴욕에서 매우 높은 착장률을 보였고 이와는 다르게 서울 지역은 스키니도 강세이지만 미니나 쇼트 같은 하의가 타지역보다 비율이 높아서 상이한 착장실태를 보여주었다. 이와 같이 아이템별로 서울 사람들은 일부는 유러피언과 유사하고 일부는 뉴욕과 유사한 착장형태를 하고 있으며 또한 서울의 소비자들이 DIY 스타일도 보여 좀 더 다양하게 겨울 시즌에 옷을 연출하고 있음을 확인할 수 있었다. 이 연구는 착장실태에 관한 조사를 주로 하였으나 향후 각 패션 도시의 문화적 특성이나 소비자 행동에 관한 서베이를 동시에 병행하고 다년간 리서치를 진행한다면 좀더 학계 및 업계에 기여도가 클 것으로 사료된다.