• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.51-57
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• 1993

It is often assumed that the wave velocity at the bottom given by potential wave theory il the same as the wave velocity at the top of the turbulent boundary layer. This assumption is found to be the major cause of the error detected by recent elaborate theories and numerical models for the description of velocity profile near the sea bottom. A relationship is suggested between the potential velocity and the real boundary velocity. Based on this relation, the existing theories of Jonsson (1967) and Fredsoe (1984) are refined for the estimation of wave friction factor, and the computation results of the modified theories are favourably compared with the published laboratory results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.73-78
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• 2010

Wave energy is dissipated mainly by friction on the seabed until the waves reach the surf zone. Many researchers have investigated the mechanism of wave friction and the bottom shear stress induced by wave motion at a certain point is now well estimated by introducing the wave friction factor related to the near bed velocity given by linear wave theory. The variation of wave energy or wave height over a long distance can be, however, estimated by an iteration process when the propagation of waves is strongly influenced by bed friction. In the present study simple semi-theoretical equation has been developed to compute the variation of wave height for the condition of wave propagation on a constant beach slope. The ratio of wave height is determined by the product of shoalng factor and wave height friction factor (frictional wave energy dissipation factor). The wave height estimated by the new equation is compared with the wave height estimated by the solution of numerical integration for the condition that the waves propagate on a constant slope.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.177-188
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• 2001

The paper presents the method to estimate the bottom shear stress driven by waves and current on rough turbulent flow. Parameter adjusting technique is suggested for the computation of bed shear stress driven by uni-directional flow, and the value ofpararneter is determined by comparing the computational results against Bijker's laboratory data. For the computation of combined flow bottom shear stress, two methods are presented; one is the modified Bijker approach (BYO Model) and the other is the modified Fredsoe approach (FY Model), both of which are refined by the present writers. BYO model is again refined in the computation of maximum shear stress, and the final version is tested against Bijkcr's laboratory data.