• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.123-130
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• 2018

The present study investigated the validity of an equilibrium shoreline empirical formula for real phenomena. Among three types of equilibrium shoreline formulas, Hsu's parabolic type static formula was employed, which is well-known and the most practical for shoreline estimation after coastal or harbor structure construction. The wave data observed at Maengbang beach and the CERC formula on longshore sediment transport were used in the present investigation. A comparison study was only conducted for the case of a shoreline change after the construction of a groyne. Reasonable agreement was seen between the observed wave data and the data obtained under a wave angle spreading function S = 3.5. However, significant changes were observed when S increased. Thus, careful application is required when using Hsu's formula.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.101-114
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• 2019

In this study, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach, which is suffering from erosion problem. We obtain the basic equation (One Line Model for shoreline) for the numerical simulation by assuming that the amount of shoreline retreat or advance is balanced by the net influx of longshore and cross-shore sediment into the unit discretized shoreline segment. In doing so, the energy flux model for the longshore sediment transport rate is also evoked. For the case of cross sediment transport, the modified Bailard's model (1981) by Cho and Kim (2019) is utilized. At each time step of the numerical simulation, we adjust a closure depth according to pertinent wave conditions based on the Hallermeier's analytical model (1978) having its roots on the Shield's parameter. Numerical results show that from 2017.4.26 to 2017.10.15 during which swells are prevailing, a shoreline advances due to the sustained supply of cross-shore sediment. It is also shown that a shoreline temporarily retreats due to the erosion by the yearly highest waves sequentially occurring from mid-October to the end of October, and is followed by gradual recovery of shoreline as high waves subdue and swells prevail. It is worth mentioning that great yearly circulation of shoreline completes when a shoreline retreats due to the erosion by the higher waves occurring from mid-March to the end of March. The great yearly circulation of shoreline mentioned above can also be found in the measured locations of shoreline on 2017.4.5, 2017.9.7, 2017.11.7, 2018.3.14. However, numerically simulated amount of shoreline retreat or advance is more significant than the physically measured one, and it should be noted that these discrepancies become more substantial for the case of RUN II where a closure depth is sustained to be as in the most morphology models like the Genesis (Hanson and Kraus, 1989).