• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.294-300
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• 2006

Implicit numerical scheme using fractional step method and FCT is used to improve the computational efficiency of WAM. Square wave test and simulation of typhoon generated waves are conducted to verify the numerical scheme. The applied scheme shows much less numerical diffusion and due to the implicit character of the scheme much larger time steps can be used without numerical instability. For typhoon MAEMI, comparison between the numerical results and the measured data shows good agreement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.146-150
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• 1996

The waves are most important dynamical factors for the analyses of structural stability and topographical changes on coastal engineering field. However, wind-generated waves are very irregular in shape and transformed through refraction, diffraction and shoaling when they propagate into shallow water where bottom topography and water depth vary significantly. Recently, Vincent and Briggs (1989) reported hydraulic model experiments for the transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound. They concluded that for the case of combined refraction-diffraction of waves by a shoal, the propagation characteristics of the irregular and equivalent regular wave conditions can be vastly different. On the irregular wave transformation have been made theoretical and numerical studies for several years. Although theoretical and laboratory studies on wave transformation have progressed considerably, field measurement and comparison of numerical results with related theories are still necessary for the prediction of the phenomena in reality. In this study, field measurement of both incident and transformed waves in Youngil Bay were made using various kinds of equipments, and numerical computations were made on the transformed frequency spectra of large waves propagating over the shoal using Chae and Jeong's (1992) elliptic model. It is shown that this model results agree very well with field data, and thus the applicability of the model is now validated.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2009.10a
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• pp.129-131
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• 2009

최근 추세에 따라 수치실험은 높은 해상도와 정확도를 요구하고 있다. 일반적으로 파랑장 계산은 광역모형을 도입하고 연구영역에 대한 지형상태에 대한 분해능을 가지는 격자에 대하여 별도의 상세역의 모형을 구성하게 된다. 여기서, 세역의 입사파는 광역의 결과를 토대로 추출하게 되는데, 이 때 결과의 연속성에서 문체를 가지게 된다. 대체로 이러한 문제점을 극복하기 위하여 가변격자체계와 스펙트럼 추출 둥의 방법을 사용하게 되지만 여전히 수치적 오류는 계속되고 있는 실정이다. 따라서, 본 연구에서는 최근 가장 일반적으로 사용되고 있는 SWAN모형의 Nested 모형에 대한 적용성을 확인하고자 한다. 이를 위하여 각기 다른 조석환경하에 있는 두 개의 항에 대한 실험을 실시하고 이에 대한 결과를 비교 분석하였다. 분석결과, Nested 모형으로 구성된 광역과 세역 경계에서의 추출된 값이 거의 동일한 값을 가지며 각기 다른 조석환경하에서의 결과 또한 다르지 않다는 것을 확인하였다.

• Ecology and Resilient Infrastructure
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2014

In this study, a numerical simulation technique for coastal area where wave and current interactions are observed is proposed. Considering the spatial scale of coastal area and the coastal processes such as wave, current, shoaling, wave breaking, and inundation processes, boussinesq equation model is used. A depth-integrated transport model based on the consistent assumption with the boussinesq equation model is used for the prediction of solute transport. To solve the equations, finite volume method with an approximate riemann solver is used. The proposed model is applied to a coastal area and reasonable computational results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.135-140
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• 1999

To simulate the wave transformation by an energy dissipation region, a numerical model is suggested by discretizing the elliptic mild-slope equation. Generalized conjugate gradient method is used as solution algorithm to apply parabolic approximation to open boundary condition. To demonstrate the applicabil-ity of the numerical procedure suggested, the wave scattering by a circular damping region is examined. The feature of reflection in front of the damping region is captured clearly by the numerical solution. The effect of the size of dissipation coefficient is examined for a rectangular damping region. The recovery of wave height by diffraction occurs very slowly with distance behind the damping region.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.93-99
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• 1998

Parabolic approximation and sponge layer are applied as open boundary condition for elliptic finite difference wave model. Generalized conjugate gradient method is used as a solution procedure. Using parabolic approximation a large part of spurious reflection is removed at the spherical shoal experiment and sponge layer boundary condition needs more than 2 wave lengths of sponge layer to give similar results. Simulating the propagation of waves on a rectangular harbor, it is identified that iterative scheme can be applied easily for the non-rectangular computational region.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 1989

Theoretical studies have been made to analyze combined refraction diffraction of the wind waves propagating on a large scale current in water of varying depth. The governing equation for monochromatic waves was derived through splitting a mild slope equation into two equations. A numerical model is developed using finite difference scheme which is computationally very efficient for modelling large area. Numerical examples concerning the interactions between waves and rip currents over a gentle slope are presented, in which the current effects on the wave diffraction in the caustic region are closely examined.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.02a
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• pp.55-55
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• 2011

연안 및 해안공학의 발달과 더불어 부유식방파제의 기능적 효율성이 중요시 되고 있다. 흔히 사용되어오던 착저식방파제는 설치에 많은 시간과 경비가 소요되고 환경 및 생태계에 많은 변화를 줄 수 있으며, 설치 예정지의 수리학적 특성 등의 여건에 많은 제약을 받는 단점이 있다. 부유식방파제는 일본 등의 선진국을 중심으로 활용이 잦아지고 있는 방파제로서 수면 위에 설치되기 때문에 수중 생태계에 미치는 영향이 적은 친환경방파제이다. 또한 기존에 시공된 중력식방파제와는 달리 수심에 제한을 덜 받고, 공사기간이 짧기 때문에 경제적이다. 실제 시공사례로는 2007년 마산 원전항에 완공된 부유식방파제가 대표적이며, 지금까지도 부유식방파제에 대한 여러 연구자들의 관심이 증가하고 있는 추세이다. 방파제뿐만 아니라 우리나라처럼 국토의 면적이 작은 지역에서 증가하는 해상물동량을 소화하기 위해서 부유식방파제 등을 이용한 항만의 시공이 필요한 실정이다. 이러한 부유식방파제의 분석적인 측면에 있어서 수치해석은 파랑과 구조물의 상호작용을 해석하는 데 한계가 있으며, 부유식방파제 단면형상을 정확하게 재현할 수 없으므로, 수리모형실험을 통한 부유식방파제의 연구가 필요할 것으로 판단된다. 최근 기술의 발달로 인한 유동장 해명이 가능해 졌으며, PIV(Particle image velocimetry) 및 LDV시스템은 다양한 분야에서 응용되고 있다. 특히, LDV시스템은 측정하려는 한 지점에 대하여 레이저 빔을 단면(Cross-section)으로 만들고 입자의 산란광을 후방산란(Back scatter)으로 받아서 도플러 효과를 이용, 속도에 대한 주파수를 획득하며, 유속을 측정하는 장비로 매우 높은 정확도와 비접촉식 이라는 장점을 가지고 있다. 또한, PIV 시스템에 비하여 측정시간이 오래 걸리는 반면 데이터를 가공하지 않고 활용할 만큼 높은 정확성을 가지고 있다. 본 연구에서는 수리모형실험을 통하여 단독형, 2열형 및 3열형 부유식방파제의 형상, 흘수 및 거리를 변화시키며 유동장을 수집하였으며, 방파성능에 따른 와의 생성 및 소멸시점에서의 파랑변형과의 관계를 분석하였다. 방파제의 형상과 흘수를 달리하여 수리모형실험을 수행하였으며, 와류의 상관관계를 분석하였다. 또한, 연직 2차원 Navier-Stokes 방정식 모형을 이용하여 수치모형실험을 수행하였으며, 수치모형실험 결과와 수리모형실험 결과를 비교 분석하였다. 후방방파제에서 발생되는 파랑은 입사파의 주기가 길어질수록 상대적으로 커지는 현상을 보였으며, 흘수심이 깊어질수록 전방방파제 입사 면에서 자유 수면이 높게 관측되는 결과를 보였다. 또한, 비교적 장주기파랑에 해당하는 입사파랑의 경우 전달파고비 산정에 있어서 설계기준인 0.5를 대다수 초과하는 반면, 3열형 구조에서는 대부분이 0.5이하로 상당히 높은 방파성능 결과를 나타내었다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.216-225
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• 1994

By use of laboratory experiment data set for an elliptic shoal by Berkhoff et al. (1982), both accuracy and Performance tests of numerical results between PCGM (Preconditioned Conjugate Gradient Method) and PA(Parabolic Approximation) are compared. Although both results show good agreement with the experimental data the PA model gives better reproduction of the relatively high amplitudes in the section 4-5 downwave of the shoal, in comparison with the PCGM. The PA model has been proved to be a useful tool for predicting wave transformationsin large shallow water region, but it can be applied only to the case of negligible reflection. On the other hand, there is a need to improve the computational efficiency of the PCGM model which is a finite difference scheme directly derived from the mild slope equation and can handle reflection. By taking the results of th PA model as an input data of the PCGM, the CPU time can be reduced by about 40%.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.22-30
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• 1989

Wave propagation is changed by the effect of shoaling, current-depth refraction and shelter-ing etc. To solve these problems. numerous models have been developed. In the present study, a coordinate system is proposed based on the wave ray equation with the wave number equation including diffraction effects . The governing equation for the study was derived from the mild slope wave equation in non-steady state, including current effects (Kirby, 1986a) and trans-formed into an orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system on the basis of the wave ray equation. To obtain a numerical solution, an explicit finite difference scheme was used, and solved by the relaxation method. This model was tested for various cases: Firstly a submersed circular shoal and a constant unit depth. Secondly a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope, and finally a breakwater harbour with obliquely incident waves on a slope. The model was found to simulate the experimental results and other theoretical results in wave height and wave angle fairy well, and the applicability of the model around an arbitrary shaped coastal structure was also verified. To demonstrate the general usefullness of the present approach , the model is to be applied to a field situation with a complex bed topography.