• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• 제45권3호
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• pp.203-213
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• 2024

This study aimed to investigate the seasonal patterns of multiple bar formation in summer and flattening in winter on the macrotidal Sinduri beach in Taean, and to understand the processes their formation and subsequent flattening. Beach profiling has been conducted regularly over the last four years using a VRS-GPS system. Surface sediment samples were collected seasonally along the transectline, and grain size analyses were performed. Tidal current data were acquired using a TIDOS current observation system during both winter and summer. The Sinduri macrotidal beach consists of two geomorphic units: an upper high-gradient beach face and a lower gentler sloped intertidal zone. High berms and beach cusps did not develop on this beach face. The approximately 400-m-wide intertidal zone comprises distinct 2-5 lines of multiple bars. Mean grain sizes of sand bars range from 2.0 to 2.75 phi, corresponding to fine sands. Mean sizes show shoreward coarsening trend. Regular beach-profiling survey revealed that the summer profile has a multi-barred morphology with a maximum of five bar lines, whereas, the winter profile has a non-barred, flat morphology. The non-barred winter profiles likely result from flattening by scour-and-fill processes during winter. The growth of multiple bars in summer is interpreted to be formed by a break-point mechanism associated with moderate waves and the translation of tide levels, rather than the standing wave hypothesis, which is stationary at high tide. The break-point hypothesis for multi-bars is supported by the presence of the largest bar at mean sea-level, shorter bar spacing toward the shore, irregular bar spacing, strong asymmetry of bars, and the 10-30 m shoreward migration of multi-bars.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.397-404
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• 2014

In Korea, harbor tranquility is generally estimated by using both methods of investigating harbor calmness under abnormal wave condition and evaluating the harbor serviceability. The efficiency of the former method is questionable as the tranquility of a harbor is judged by a wave height criterion that is arbitrarily determined without rational basis. In case of the latter method, the utilization rate of a harbor is estimated by using the exceedance probability of wave height or the distribution of wave heights and periods that is obtained from longterm measured or hindcasted wave data. Use of long-term data is desirable in order to guarantee the accuracy of the exceedance probability. Meanwhile, the criterion for determining maximum allowable wave height for cargo handling works is too simple and has limitations for being used in an actual field condition. Problems of existing method for estimating harbor tranquility were verified by the wave observation data in Busan New Port. And the importance of the field observation data was emphasized. It is necessary to perform long-term wave monitoring inside and outside of major ports in Korea in order to establish more advanced standard for evaluating harbor tranquility based on such observed wave data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.131-139
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• 2014

Infra-gravity waves (IGWs) with a period of 1~3 minutes are a factor that directly influences the motion analysis of moored ships inside a harbor and longshore sediment transport analysis. If significant levels of IGWs from far seas are transferred to a harbor and amplified, they may cause downtime of large ships and induce economic loss. In this study, transfer characteristics of the IGWs intruding from outside to inside Pohang New Harbor were analyzed using statistical analysis and transfer function of wave data measured at both outside and inside the harbor for around 5 years. Transfer characteristic analysis was limited to events where IGWs had wave heights above 0.1 m. The wave height distribution of inside the harbor was similar to that of outside the harbor, while the wave period variance of the former was larger than that of the latter. The parameters of the transfer function was optimally estimated according to each event. The estimated average RMS error of the wave height inside the harbor was around 0.013 m. The estimated parameters had a strong correlation with the linear combination information of IGW wave height, period, and direction (R = 0.95). The transfer function suggested in this study can quickly and easily estimate information on IGWs inside the harbor using IGW information predicted beforehand, and is expected to reduce damage due to unexpected restrictions on harbor usage.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 한국항해항만학회 2005년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.245-251
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• 2005

When we design coastal and harbol facilities deepwater design wave and wind speed are the important design parameters. Especially, the analysis of these informations is a vital step for the point of disaster prevention. In this study, we made and an extreme value analysis using a series of deep water significant wave data arranged in the 16 direction and supplied by KORDI real-time wave information system ,and the wind data gained from Wan-Do whether Station 1978-2003. The probability distributions considered in this characteristic analysis were the Weibull, the Gumbel, the Log-Pearson Type III, the Normal, the Lognormal, and the Gamma distribution. The parameter for each distribution was estimated by three methods, i.e. the method of moments, the maximum likelihood, and the method of probability weight moments. Furthermore, probability distributions for the extreme data had been selected by using Chi-square and Kolmogorov-Smirnov test within significant level of 5%, i,e. 95% reliance level. From this study we found that Gumbel distribution is the most proper model for the deep water design wave height off the southwest coast of Korea. However the result shows that the proper distribution made for the selected site is varied in each extreme data set.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• 제25권7호
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• pp.920-926
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• 2019

In this study, we analyzed the erosion variation of beach area at Haeundae Beach after coastal improvement project using video monitoring system operated by the Coastal Erosion Monitoring (Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries). Haeundae Beach was well maintained and stabilized following large scale nourishment through coastal improvement project despite of seasonal fluctuations. However, multiple typhoons over the last two years caused beach stabilization patterns and seasonal fluctuations to lost equilibrium, resulting in rapid erosion. In particular, the sandy beach was eroded by typhoon Solic and Kongray in 2018 and failed to recover beach area in winter by seasonal fluctuations. And due to multiple typhoons in 2019, the beach area was reduced 9.5 % (12,607 ㎡) year-on-year. According to analyze the observed wave and beach area data in Haeundae, the tendency of erosion and sedimentation was influenced by seasonal incident wave direction for each section(west, center and east part). Therefore, to identify the causes of decreasing seasonal fluctuation characteristics and continuous erosion, hereafter, more precise monitoring of different factors are needed, such as the crest heights of submerged breakwater and its loss of function, and sand leakage to the outside around submerged breakwater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.226-235
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• 2011

Field measurements of the winds and waves were carried out for one year at multiple locations inside and outside of the Pohang New Harbor in order to clarify the reason of downtimes frequently occurring at most of the harbor quays and to establish an efficient countermeasure. In addition, the downtime records of the quays and precipitation data provided by Korea Meteorological Agency were acquired for mutual comparison and comprehensive analysis of the cause of downtimes. Except the influence of precipitation, it was found that the downtimes occurred when the height of waves entering into the harbor incurred by either one of swell, wind seas, or mixture of both, exceeded a threshold. The seiche whose period ranges from 5 to 80 minutes, which was suspected as a possible cause of the downtimes, is shown to have no direct relation with the downtimes. Meanwhile, the height of far-infra-gravity waves whose period ranges between 0.5 and 3 minutes, propagating to the harbor mouth forced by short period waves, showed almost proportional relationship with the height of short period waves. Based on the result of this study, it is concluded that the downtime problems of Pohang New Harbor can be greatly improved by effectively preventing the entrance of short period waves such as swell or wind seas.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.168-178
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• 2021

Numerical simulations were implemented to look into the modified seabed topography due to the presence of breakwaters of varying reflection characteristics. The numerical model was composed of OlaFlow, an OpenFoam-based tool box, and a physics-based morphology model [Seoul Foam]. In doing so, the interaction between the seabed, which undergoes deformation due to siltation and scouring, and the incoming waves was described using Dynamic Mesh. The rubble-mound, vertical, and curved slit caisson breakwaters with varying reflection characteristics resulted in standing waves that differ from each other, shown to have a significant influence on the seabed topography. These results are in line with Nielsen's study (1993) that sands saltated under the surface nodes of standing waves, where the near-bed velocities are most substantial, convected toward the surface antinodes by boundary-layer drift. Moreover, the crest of sand waves was formed under the surface antinodes of standing waves, and the trough of sand waves was formed under the surface antinodes. In addition, sand wave amplitude reaches its peak in the curved slit caisson with a significant reflection coefficient, and the saltation of many grains of sand would cause this phenomenon due to the increased near-bed velocity under the nodes when the reflection coefficient is getting large.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2023

Oceanic wind waves have been recognized as one of the important indicators of global warming and climate change. It is necessary to study the spatial and temporal variability of significant wave height (SWH) and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and a part of the East China Sea, which is directly affected by the East Asian monsoon and climate change. In this study, the spatial and temporal variability including seasonal and interannual variability of SWH and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were analyzed using European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Reanalysis 5 (ERA5) data. Prior to analyzing the variability of SWH and wave direction using the model reanalysis, the accuracy was verified through comparison with SWH and wave direction measurements from Ieodo Ocean Science Station (I-ORS). The mean SWH ranged from 0.3 to 1.6 m, and was higher in the south than in the north and higher in the center of the Yellow Sea than in the coast. The standard deviation of the SWH also showed a pattern similar to the mean. In the Yellow Sea, SWH and wave direction showed clear seasonal variability. SWH was generally highest in winter and lowest in late spring or early summer. Due to the influence of the monsoon, the wave direction propagated mainly to the south in winter and to the north in summer. The seasonal variability of SWH showed predominant interannual variability with strong variability of annual amplitudes due to the influence of typhoons in summer.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• 제48권3호
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• pp.192-199
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• 2024

Wave overtopping is a significant natural hazard that occurs in coastal areas, primarily driven by high waves, particularly those generated during typhoons, which can cause coastal flooding. The development of residential and commercial areas along the coast, driven by increasing social and economic demands, has led to a concentration of people and assets in these vulnerable areas. This, coupled with long-term sea level rise and an increase in typhoon frequency, has heightened the risk of coastal hazards. Traditionally, the evaluation of wave overtopping volumes has relied on directly measuring the collected volume of water that exceeds the crest height of structures through hydraulic model experiments. These experiments are averaged over a specific measurement period. However, in this study, we propose a new method for estimating individual wave overtopping volumes. We utilize the temporal variation of wave overtopping heights to develop an observation system that can quantitatively assess wave overtopping volumes in actual coastal areas. To test our method, we conducted hydraulic model experiments on rubble mound breakwaters, which are commonly installed along the Korean coast. We introduce wave overtopping discharge coefficients, assuming that the inundation velocity from the structure's crest is the long-wave velocity. We then predict overtopping volumes based on wave overtopping heights and compare and review the results with experimental data. The findings of our study confirm the feasibility of estimating wave overtopping volumes by applying the overtopping discharge coefficients derived in this study to wave overtopping heights.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.35-43
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• 1999

Goryeri archaeological site is located in the upstream valley of the Danjang River. The basement rocks of the area are composed of the Cretaceous to Palaeogene biotite granite (KbGr), acidic dyke (Kad), Milyang Andesite (Kma) and Jyunggagsan Formation. Among them Milyang Andesite and Jyunggagsan Formation are prevailed in archaeological site and they are composed of reddish brown tuffaceous shale, sandstone and conglomerate, with intercalations of acidic tuffs and lapilli tuffs. The purpose of this research is not only to compare REE pattern of the soil-sedimentary deposits with those of surrounding rocks, but also to identify vitric tephra in the soil-sedimentary deposits derived from the andesite, acidic tuff and lapilii tuff, in order to illucidate the provenance of the vitric tephra. The rare earth element(REE) of the soils and sedimentary deposits results in the same REE pattern with those analyzed from the surrounding basement rocks. This indicates that the soils and sedimentary deposits are originated from the surrounding basement rocks, most probably from the andesite and lapilli tuff. In addition, vitric tephra were identified both in the Quaternary in-situ weathered soils and sedimentary deposits (PMU-13 and PMU-17), and in the weathered surrounding lapilli tuff. These vitric tephra are considered to be different from those of Japanese AT(Aira Tanzawa) -tephra. The latter is predominant with clean, platty, bubble-walled and Y-shaped vitrics, while the former is conspicuous with those shapes of large and diverse size and devitrified, as well as having secondarily bubbled-surfaces reflecting surface weathering. The size of vitric fragments in the Goryeri site is about 300${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$ and large in size in compasion to 150${\mu}{\textrm}{m}$ of Japanese AT-Tephra. The interim results of the research are contradictary to the explanations based on a series of AT-tephra researches carried by Japanese scholar. In short, the vitric materials of the Goryeri archaeological site are most probably originated from the weathering products of the surrounding basement rocks, and are different from the AT-tephra in their size, shape and devitrification properties. Thus it is highly recommended to have a further comprehensive research which is more emphasized the magmatic genesis of these vitric tephra in addition to the external shape and morphology.