• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.356-367
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• 2019

This study evaluates the variation characteristics of irregular wave fields for two-dimensional Low-Crested Structure (LCS) by olaFlow model based on the two-phases flow by numerical analysis. The numerical results of olaFlow model are verified by comparing irregular wave profile of target wave spectrum and measured one, and their spectra. In addition, spacial variation of irregular wave spectrum, wave transmission ratio, root-mean square wave height, time-averaged velocity and time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy by two-dimensional LCS are discussed numerically. The time-averaged velocity, one of the most important numerical results is formed counterclockwise circulating cell and clockwise nearshore current on the front of LCS, and strong uni-directional flow directing onshore side around still water level.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.399-409
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• 2017

This study numerically investigates the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy acting as the main external forces of the salient formed behind the permeable submerged breakwaters. Shoreline response is also predicted by the longshore-induced flux. In this paper, a three-dimensional numerical wave tank based on the OLAFOAM, CFD open source code, is utilized to simulate the velocity field around permeable submerged breakwaters under the formation condition of salient. The characteristics of the velocity field around permeable submerged breakwaters with respect to the gap width between breakwaters and the installing position away from the shoreline under a range of regular waves for different wave height are evaluated. The numerical results revealed that as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. Furthermore, as the gap width becomes narrower, the point where flow converges moves from the center of the breakwater to the head part. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters. In addition, it was found that the longshore currents caused by the gap width between breakwaters and the installation position away from the shoreline are closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.332-349
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• 2016

OLAFOAM is the powerful CFD code and is an expanded version of $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$, for wave mechanics simulation. The $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$ does provide many solvers to correspond to each object of the numerical calculation in a variety of fields. OLAFOAM's governing equation bases on VARANS (Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes) equation, and the finite volume method is applied to numerical techniques. The program is coded in C++ and run on the Linux operating system. First of all, in this study, OLAFOAM was validated for 1) wave transformation inside porous structure under bore and regular wave conditions, 2) wave transformation by submerged breakwater under regular wave condition, and 3) regular wave transformation and resultant vertical velocity distribution under current by comparison with existing laboratory measurements. Hereafter, this study, which is almost no examination carried out until now, analyzed closely variation characteristics of water surface level, wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater in the wave and current coexisting field for the case of permeable or impermeable rear beach. It was revealed that the wave height fluctuation according to current direction(following or opposing) was closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy, and others.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.26-33
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• 1992

Physical experiments were conducted to investigate the suspension properties of silty mud in combined wave-current flow. Suspension mass when there was opposing current was much higher than that when there was following current. It is due to the fact which strong turbulent flow in the bottom is developed in the opposing current but oscillatory flow effect decreases in the following current. Critical bed shear stress for suspension of silty mud in combined wave-current flow was deduced to be $\tau$$_{c}$～0.045 N/$m^2$. Formulas expressing the relation with initial suspension rate with bed shear stress, and the relation between the former and measured significant wave height were deduced. The relationship of initial suspension rate with bed shear stress was significantly scattered, but the relationship with measured significant wave height was reasonably good. When there is wave only, vertical diffusion coefficients of sediment were calculated from the vertical concentration gradients of suspended sediment when the concentration of suspended sediment approached to nearly equilibrium state. The diffusion coefficient increased exponentially with height from the bottom in the lower half of the flow depth but were nearly constant in the upper half of the flow depth.h.

• Water for future
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-76
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• 1988

Analyzed was the circulation phenomena in the open channel with sudden expansion, by applying the Galerkin's finite element method to the depth-averaged 2-dimensional continuity and momentum equations. Wave tests were done in the simplified channel in order to review the validity of this newly developed model and the computed results were within 0.5% of $L_2$-norm error, and application of this model to the simulation of simplified dam-break gave very close results compared with the analytical solution, thus, it can be concluded that this model is valid and efficient. The main flow in the expanded channel was defined as a new initial condition with given velocity and the flow in the expanded portion was at rest in simulating the circulation, and besides the Neumann's condition the slip boundary condition for lateral wall was found to be proper condition than the no-slip condition. It can be concluded, from the numerical tests in the sudden expension, that the circulating phenomena depend mainly on the convective inertia and the effect of turbulence due to bottom shear and lateral shear is insignificant.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.355-365
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• 1994

An analytical model of return flow is presented outside the surf zone. The governing equation is derived from the Navier-Stokes equation and the continuity. Each term of the governing equation is evaluated by the ordering analysis. Then the infinitesimal terms, i.e. the turbulent normal stress, the squared vertical velocity of water particle and the streaming velocity, are neglected. The driving forces of return flow are calculated using the linear wave theory for the shallow water approximation. Especially, the space derivative of local wave heights is described considering a shoaling coefficient. The vertical distribution of eddy viscosity is discussed to the customary types which are the constant, the linear function and the exponential function. Each coefficient of the eddy viscosities which sensitively affect the precision of solutions is uniquely decided from the additional boundary condition which the velocity becomes zero at the wave trough level. Also the boundary conditions at the bottom and the continuity relation are used in the integration of the governing equation. The theoretical solutions of present model are compared with the various experimental results. The solutions show a good agreement with the experimental results in the case of constant or exponential function type eddy viscosity.