• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.120-127
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• 2012

Exploratory data analysis was carried out by using the long-term wave climate data in Sokcho coastal zone. The main features found in this study are as follows. The coefficient of variations on the wave height and period are about 0.11 and 0.02, respectively. It also shows that the annual components of the wave height and period are dominant and their amplitudes are 0.24 m and 0.56 seconds, respectively. The amount of intra-annual variation range is about two times greater than that of the inter-annual variation range. The distribution shapes of the wave data are very similar to the log-normal and GEV(generalized extreme value) functions. However, the goodness-of-fit tests based on the KS test show as "rejected" for all suggested density functions. Then, the structure of the timeseries wave height data is roughly estimated as AR(3) model. Based on the wave duration results, it is clearly shown that the continuous and maximum duration is decreased as a power function shape and the total duration is exponentially decreased. Meanwhile, the environment of the Sokcho coastal zone is classified as a wave-dominated environment.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1992.08a
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• pp.121-125
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• 1992

입사파와 반사파의 분리는 수리모형실험에 있어서 기본적이면서도 대단히 중요한 문제이다. 최근까지 개발된 분리기법으로는 Goda and Suzuki (1976)의 2점법과 Mansard and Funke (1980)의 3점범을 들 수 있다. 2점법은 두 지점에서의 파고를 관측하여 분리하는 기법으로 두 지점사이의 거리에 따라 해가 존재하지 않는 파랑조건이 존재하며 수조에서 발생되는 횡파, 비선형 파랑상호 간섭, signal noise, 측정오차 등에 민감한 단점이 있다.(중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1991.07a
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• pp.40-45
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• 1991

항만 건설, 매립, 임해 발전소의 걸선, 호안 축조 및 신공간 개발 등 연안역 개발시 설계 환경요소인 파랑을 정확히 예측함으로써 이러한 사업을 경제적으로 수행 할 수 있다. 특히 이들 구조물은 대부분 쇄파대내에 위치하므로 쇄파후의 파랑변형 및 Runup 등을 파악하여야 한다. 본 연구에서는 조파수조를 이용하여 쇄파후의 파고 및 Runup 등을 관측하여 경험식 및 해석해와 비교하였다.(중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.42-44
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• 1993

최근, 불규칙파를 조파시킴으로서 발생하는 실험실 스케일의 해빈변형에 대해서 그 정선변화 뿐만아니라 수심변화까지 포함한 수치 simulation모델이 개발되었다. 그러나 현지파랑은 파고, 주기가 불규칙하고, 또한 입사파향도 일정하지 않기때문에, 앞서 논한 예측법에 의해 현지연안에서 발생하는 지형변동을 예측하기 위해서는, 현지파랑중 어떠한 방법으로 대표파고를 선정할 것인가가 큰 문제가 된다. (중략)

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.173-183
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• 1993

Four wave gauges of pressure type were installed for about one month(1992. 2~3) for the analysis of wave agitations induced by the intrusion of long-period incident waves inside and outside of Donghae Harbor. Helmholtz natural period and second peak period of seiche in Donghae Harbor are found to be approximately 17.1 and 5.5 minutes from the spectral analysis of measured long-period wave data. Amplification ratio at Helmholtz natural period reaches about 10 which is five times as lagre as that of Youngil Bay, but wave amplitudes ill harbor were about 10 em during the measurement period which are relatively small.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.1
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• pp.175-180
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• 2006

This study is carried out the investigation of nonlinear characteristics of the ocean based on the field wave observation data acquired the western sea area in Jeju island during one year. It is aimed to offer the fundamental data for Freak wave forecasting in real sea. For this, the nonlinearity parameters of ocean waves, which are Skewness, Atiltness, Kurtosis and Spectrum band width parameter, are introduced, and the parameters are compared and discussed with some characteristic wave components, ie, significant wave height, maximum wave height, and so on.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.135-145
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• 2020

Wave observation is widely used to direct observation method for observing the water surface elevation using wave buoy or pressure gauge and remote-sensing wave observation method. The wave buoy and pressure gauge can produce high-quality wave data but have disadvantages of the high risk of damage and loss of the instrument, and high maintenance cost in the offshore area. On the other hand, remote observation method such as radar is easy to maintain by installing the equipment on the land, but the accuracy is somewhat lower than the direct observation method. This study investigates the data quality of MIROS Wave and Current Radar (MWR) installed at Dokdo and improve the data quality of remote wave observation data using the wave buoy (CWB) observation data operated by the Korea Meteorological Administration. We applied and developed the three types of wave data quality control; 1) the combined use (Optimal Filter) of the filter designed by MIROS (Reduce Noise Frequency, Phillips Check, Energy Level Check), 2) Spike Test Algorithm (Spike Test) developed by OOI (Ocean Observatories Initiative) and 3) a new filter (H-Ts QC) using the significant wave height-period relationship. As a result, the wave observation data of MWR using three quality control have some reliability about the significant wave height. On the other hand, there are still some errors in the significant wave period, so improvements are required. Also, since the wave observation data of MWR is different somewhat from the CWB data in high waves of over 3 m, further research such as collection and analysis of long-term remote wave observation data and filter development is necessary.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2019.05a
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• pp.48-50
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• 2019

항만 및 해안구조물의 안정성이나 연안지형 변화 등에 가장 주요한 외력조건 중 하나인 파랑의 효율적인 관측을 위하여, 선박용 X-band 레이다를 이용항 파랑 모니터링 시스템을 활용할 수 있다. 과거 해외 시스템의 국내 적용시 문제점을 개선한 3S-system (한동대학교 개발)의 건설현장 실적용 사례를 통해 실시간 공간관측 가능한 파랑 시스템 운영을 소개하고, 이를 해상공사 중 작업선박에 대한 관제시스템으로 확장 사용하는 안에 대하여 제시하였다. 향후 추가적인 확장성에 대해서도 공유하고자 한다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2019.11a
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• pp.153-154
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• 2019

본 연구에서는 일본 기상청(JMA)에서 제공하는 JMA-MSM (Meso-Scale Model) 바람장을 SWAN 모델에 입력자료로 적용하여 파랑전파를 모의하였다. 영역은 심해역·중간역·연안역으로 설정하였다. 산출된 모델링의 결과는 관측자료와 비교·검증하여 모델 구축에 대한 신뢰성을 확보하였다. 그리고 연안역에서 SWAN모델의 파랑스펙트럼정보를 입력조건으로 하는 SWASH모델의 영역을 구축하여 두 모델간 파랑전파양상을 비교하였다. SWAN(phase-averaged) 모델과 SWASH(phase-resolving) 모델은 지배방정식의 차이에 따라 파랑의 위상처리 방식 등의 차이가 있다. 이로 인한 연안역에서의 파랑전파양상의 차이를 비교하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.36-45
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• 2017

In the present study, the storm waves at the Korean Straits of April, 2016 have been reproduced by the wave hindcasting, and then their characteristics were investigated. Before the wave hindcasting, the wave measurements at the Korean Straits were analyzed. The analysis showed that the waves at the Korean Straits were dominated by the Northeastern waves, same as those in the East Sea. Accordingly, the wave hindcasting was been carried out with the same condition in Ahn et al. (2016). In the numerical results, the maximum significant wave height at the Korean Straits was 5.06 m, and the corresponding significant wave period was 9.2 s. The computed significant wave heights and wave periods were overestimated by 4 cm and 0.8 s, respectively. After the wave hindcasting, the computed significant wave heights and peak periods were compared with the JONSWAP relationship. This comparison showed that the storm waves at the Korean Straits were close to wind waves, not swell.