• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.13-33
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• 2024

This study aims to analyze the potential and limitations of using traditional men's suits as upcycled materials by examining case studies of deconstructed and reassembled designs. The research explores the potential of upcycled suit design and proposes data to guide future directions in upcycling. A literature review was conducted, revealing that upcycled designs are often created through deconstruction, within the framework of Jacques Derrida's deconstructionist philosophy. The study examined 10 brands that focused on suit-based upcycled designs across two or more seasons, resulting in 202 upcycled suit products for analysis to identify key design characteristics. Upcycle suits have been shown to be disordered decentralized properties through deformation, discontinuity through deformation, and damage through reconstruction of existing suits. First, deformation was expressed in the design of a typical dressing, asymmetry, overlap, distortion, and repetition. Second, deformation mainly appeared as a method of omission, heterogeneous insertion, material conversion, and separation. Third, damage appeared as a doodle, tear, and incomplete up-cycle design method. Using these methods, three decentralized upcycle suit designs were developed, and a new direction of upcycle design was suggested. The study concludes that upcycled suit design can contribute to sustainable fashion by achieving zero waste, developing refined sewing techniques, pursuing diverse design methods, and promoting transparency in production. This research offers insights into innovative and diverse product development through the reinterpretation of discarded suits.