• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.48-66
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• 2019

The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the similarities between religious costumes and Kazakh and Tajik minority women's costumes in the Chinese northwestern minority population that believes in both Islam and Shamanism. The research was conducted by investigating the forms, colors, and patterns of 240 representative costume pieces and making quantitative comparisons between religious and traditional costumes. The results showed that the Kazakh and Tajik costumes were similarly formed, both intended to cover the human body. Both the Islamic and traditional headdresses were also similarly shaped. In terms of color, black, white, green, and blue were found frequently in the Islamic religious costumes, as were red and yellow. Red, white, and brown, ascribed to the colors of shamanism, signifying incantations, were also frequent, indicating that this was engrained in their lives. A review of the traditional costumes revealed the patterns of Islam. Plants, geometry, abstraction, and letter patterns were dominant, whereas the meaning of the Islamic patterns, rebirth, sun, life, and hope, influenced the traditional costume patterns. Patterns associated with incantations, like the animal horns shown in the shamanism religious costumes, were persistently observed even after the people were converted to Islam. This study on the similarities between religious and traditional costumes in the Chinese minority might help us understand the connection between religious and traditional costumes and elucidate the cultural costume transition process.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.261-272
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• 2022

During the China's long history, many ethnic groups have developed their own traditions of local music which is an important part of their precious cultures. Meanwhile, each ethnic group developed its own worldview and music culture according to its unique living environment, special lifestyle and mode of production. The clarinet is a Western instrument, and has been influenced to some extent by Chinese minority culture while being introduced to China. Therefore, musicians tried to find ways of using Western musical instruments to express various elements of Chinese minority music. Focusing on two clarinet works 'The Song of Grazing Horses' by Wang Yan and 'The Sound of Pamir Clarinet Concerto' by Hu Bijing, this paper aims to analyze the musical characteristics of minority groups expressed by the clarinet in two aspects: the formation of the music style, the artistic characteristics conveyed through the works. Specifically, it consists of five parts: ethnic mode and tonality, rhythm, time signature, melody making, and imitation of animals. It also analyzes the cultural characteristics of Tajik and Mongolian music reflected in the two works in combination with living environment, mode of production, life style, and ethnic emotions. This study aims to provide a theoretical basis for composers and performers who want to understand and acquire the musical style of modern Chinese clarinet works. It also helps to find a better way to play traditional Chinese music with Western instruments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.105-114
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• 2001

The result of this study is on textile expressed in the costume of the Kazakh tribe, Kirgiz tribe, Tajik tribe. Basically the material of costume is fur, cotton flannel, felt, silk, cotton outwear, velvet cloth and beads, silver, earing, bracelet is used frequently. The tribes did embroider on the shoes, made of sheepskin or calfskin and collar, belt, button, pocket with the sketch of national trait. Eventually their cultures of costume seem to be very similar because of the resemblances in circumstance of nature, religion, custom of life but definitely they show conservatism in itself and independent culture. In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is no big difference. Then, in men, the trousers and the shirts of tunic type become the basic with the style which is convenient to act. And, to wear vest, or jacket, or chaban, over it makes a little difference. In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outwear, on the basis of one piece. But, in a small hat, head wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc., strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion, and life habit etc., But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So, it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unique identity of their own culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.4
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• pp.124-136
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• 2015

Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region is the area with the most Muslim populations in China and the costume of this ethnic minority group was influenced from its surrounding environment and religion. Headgear is one of the important costume elements of Muslim ethnic minority such as Kazakh, Kirghiz, Uzbek, and Tadzhik people, and each group has developed narious forms of it. Especially, we can notice characteristics of headgear in Xinjiang Uygur and four ethnic minority groups through women's headgear pursuant to motive of wear, classification of type, differences and comparability with other areas. Thus, purpose of this study is to investigate women's headgear of Muslim ethnic minority in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. Based on local data at the Xinjiang Uygur Museum, the study referred to Chinese ethnic minority costume and literature data as well as advanced researches related to Islam, and analyzed characteristics of women's headgear of four ethnic groups in connection with Muslim formation background in Xinjiang Uygur. Women's headgear of Muslim ethnic minority in Xinjiang Uygur can be largely divided into three types; cylindrical, conical and hood type. Headgear was influenced not only by natural environment and weather for protection of body, but also by Islam. Along with strong desire for decoration and expression of racial features, it was used as a means of race discrimination and representation of identity. The religion of Islam within these four ethnic groups grew in accordance with tradition of existing nomadic tribes and regional characteristics, and women's headgear developed in various ways added with religious precepts and nomadic features. Taking everything into consideration, it is found that women's headgear of Kazakh, Kirghiz, Uzbek, and Tadzhik people developed, adopting their own living style and features of minority races instead of remaining identical to the headgear type of Muslim countries in other area.