• 복식
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• 제58권7호
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• pp.31-42
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• 2008

The fashion of the 19C had been through many diverse styles, i.e. Empire style, Romantic style, Crinoline style and the Bustle style. These styles had emphasized a certain figures, such as exaggerated hourglass silhouette of crinoline style or S silhouette of bustle style. Following the trends, corsets became more than underwears. Actually they supported the fashion of the 19C. Apparently, the corsets had been evolved in many aspects. Patterns, materials and trimmings were developed and refined to make torso figures desirable. The initial purpose of the research is to find out how they developed corset patterns to make such a diverse figures, so that the techniques can be adopted in contemporary pattern design. The 16 corsets and their patterns were quoted from books related the subject. The patterns were redrawn of same scale for the comparative study concerning cutting lines and measurements. Coming to the late, more curved lines and more segmented cutting were used to make body more of glamour and natural. Gussets were another key technique to make them work. Various sized and shaped gussets were used to follow the trends of ever changing.

• 한국가정과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국가정과학회 2003년도 학술대회
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• pp.77-77
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• 2003

본 연구의 목적은 후프(hoop)의 기원 및 변천과정을 고찰해보고 시대별로 후프의 유형을 분류한 후, 포스트모더니즘 이후 더욱 다양해진 후프가 현대패션에서 어떻게 응용되고 있는지를 살펴봄으로써 후프의 역사적ㆍ미적 가치를 재인식하여 오늘날 복식디자인에 창조의 영감을 줄 수 있는 하나의 모티브를 제시하는데 있다. 후프가 발생하였던 르네상스시대에는 신 중심에서 인간중심으로 사고가 변화하면서, 복식에 있어서도 인간의 신체미를 과시하려는 의도로 인체의 실루엣을 과장ㆍ확대하고자 하였다. 따라서 속옷의 중요성과 역할에 따른 심미적인 기능이 복식에 절대적으로 필요하였고, 뿐만 아니라 기교적인 면에서 속옷에 요구되는 장식성은 어느 시대보다 절실하였다. 그 결과 겉옷이 확대되고, 이에 따라 속옷도 인체를 크게 보일 수 있는 후프가 고안되었다. 후프는 스커트를 부풀리기 위해 철사나 고래뼈 등을 세공하여 만든 테를 넣은 속치마를 말한다. 16세기 중엽 스페인에서 유행한 종형의 파딩게일(farthingale)을 시초로, 영국과 프랑스에서는 드럼형의 휠 파딩게일(wheel farthingale)과 오쓰뀌(hausse col)가 유행하였다. 17세기 초기에는 후프를 착용한 16세기 복식이 유행하였으나, 1625년 이후 슬림한 스타일의 17세기 복식이 유행하자 후프의 착용은 점차 쇠퇴하였다. 18세기에는 파니에(panier)가 유행하여 옆을 부풀린 스커트의 실루엣을 형성하였고, 19세기에는 크리놀린(crinoline), 벗슬(bustle)이 유행하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.80-88
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• 2006

This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.