• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.661-673
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify the intrinsic characteristics of camouflage patterns by reviewing their origin, transitions and types from a theoretical background and analyzing their forms of expression in contemporary fashion. For a literature review and an empirical analysis of the camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion, the study referred to domestic and foreign fashion magazines published between 2000 S/S and 2010 S/S, including Gap Press, Fashion News, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and other related data available on the internet. The findings of this study show that the forms of camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion can be divided into four types: abstract patterns, plant patterns of flowers or leaves, animal patterns and dotted patterns. In terms of coloration, the camouflage patterns work to refresh the design, breaking from the image of military uniforms through the use of a wide range of color variation and combinations as well as the traditional camouflage colors based on khaki and beige. In terms of expression, most of them utilize printing. However, other techniques of expression, such as embroidery, beading, knitting, and collages are used to emphasize the beauty of handcrafted decorations along with the aesthetic value of reliefs. Through these tendencies of expression, the characteristics of contemporary fashion using camouflage are explained with an emphasis on feminine beauty, the expression of neutrality, and the use as decorative factors.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.682-693
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• 2013

Camouflage is evaluated by scientific principle in the fields of biology, military science, and art. It has a strong influence on contemporary fashion and means exposure with concealment. This study analyzed the visual characteristics of camouflage patterns in fashion design through documentaries and fashion photos. The fashion design results areas follow. The simple blending of a disruptive motif indicated an inaccurate repetition of a disruptive motif, the discontinuous or continuous connection of disruptive motif, the irregular repetition of a disruptive animal silhouette, the collage of a different disruptive motif, the craft of a disruptive motif and the intensive color match of a disruptive motif. It represented the maximization of complication, fantastic and fanciness. The overlap of a disruptive motif showed the overlap of disruptive print patterns with transparency and an overlap of different fabrics with a disruptive pattern. It represented spatial relationships of three dimensions as well as the maximization of visual illusion and the reinforcement of attractiveness. The blurring of a disruptive motif showed the pointage of disruptive motif, the pointage of image, value gradation, the whole blurring of a disruptive pattern cluster and stained appearance. It represented the obscurity of motif form, the uncertainty of object and double meaning. The trompe l'oeil of a partial background object showed the realistic and the painterly imitation of color and texture for partial objects through a close-up. It represented amazement and pleasure by illusion, scarcity and the decoration of surface and synecdochical remind. In conclusion, camouflage in fashion was weakened and modified from a classical military context by a unique expression of various motifs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.1025-1033
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• 2016

It is important to compare and analyze digital camouflage from different countries to promote the continuous development of a camouflage combat uniform. This effort should lead to developing a camouflage pattern suitable for the domestic environment and expand its performance of night camouflage. This study investigates digital camouflage by comparing camouflage fabrics sampled from Korea and eight other countries (USA, UK, Singapore, Croatia, Colombia, and Mongolia) in terms of textile, near-infrared reflectivity of colors, and color distribution. First, the fabric construction of camouflage from Korea, UK, US, Singapore, Span, and Croatia were all characterized by derivative plain weaves, while derivative twill weaves were generally used in Croatia and Mongolia. It is assumed that derivative plain weaves are adopted to improve the tearing strength of fine yarns. However, twill weaves enhance the flexibility of coarse yarn fabrics. Next, reflectivity change was analyzed based on camouflage color. The reflectivity of a combat uniform in Korea, Colombia, Croatia, and UK increased before 780nm in the visible light range, but remained consistent from 800nm which falls under the near-infrared range. In contrast, camouflage samples in Mongolia, Span, Singapore and USA showed a gradual increase of reflectivity in the near-infrared range. Finally, the color distribution analysis of digital camouflage found that camouflage of countries with desert or woodland combat settings dominantly contained brown colors. It indicates the color pattern consideration of different geographic regions is important to determine camouflage performance. This research involves basic study that will have implications for developing patterns and colors suitable for the South Korean environment and expand its use as night camouflage that helps achieve continuous improved camouflage performance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1264-1273
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze protection functionality of supermodern fashion which is shown by responding to supermodern environment, where non-spaces increases in the 21st modern city. The theoretical background is drawn for supermodern environment theory. For the study, he researcher used existing study and specialized book and analyzed photograph materials by selecting them in specialized fashion book, internet site and designer's collection. The works from 1995 S/S collection to 2008 S/S collection are analyzed. The result of this study is as follow. First, supermodern design is adopting the shape of high-functional element, electronic device, protective device to protect wearer in non-space. Second, in order to mentally protect individual anonymous leadership of interaction is granted by adopting hood, veil or mask. Third, supermodern design is creating independent and user-based space by shape transformation in change of urban environment. Fourth, in order to protect wearer through camouflage or concealment, camouflage pattern or neutral color are used.