• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.430-439
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• 2020

This study focused on analyzing solid brown cosmetic residues that were excavated from the tomb of the Hwahyeop princess. The cosmetics had been buried in 1752 in Cheonghwa Baekja (small porcelain jars) within a Huigwakham (a stone box sealed with lime). A literature search and chemical analyses of the relics were conducted at the National Palace Museum of Korea. Based on the results of these analyses, raw materials and manufacturing methods for reproduction of the cosmetic were selected and then cream-form cosmetics were prepared. Aging tests using heat, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and CO₂ were carried out to emulate the deterioration of the excavated cosmetics. Further chemical analyses and functionality tests were performed to evaluate changes from the tests and the effect as a cosmetic. As heat aging progressed, among the reproduced cosmetics, the one which has a high proposition of oil showed a color difference value of 32; the oxidation of oils involved chemical changes in O-H and C=C groups. As the cosmetic cream deteriorated under UV aging, the pH value became acidic. The result of the functional coverage test of the reproduced cosmetic cream was lower than the standard coverage ratio of modern cosmetics.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.187-196
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• 2020

In this study, we tried to reproduce some of the cosmetics from the Joseon period based on the previous analysis of the cosmetics excavated from the tomb of Princess Hwahyup. The two cosmetic powders, the white powder consisting of lead(II) carbonate and talc and the cinnabar-based red powder, were reproduced according to the records from the 6th to the 19th centuries. We also studied the degradation profiles of these reproduced samples by comparison of XRD patterns. Basic lead carbonate of the reproduced white powder turned into lead(II) carbonate, while the reproduced red powder showed different crystalline structure from the excavated cosmetics even after the degradation. Results of the evaluation tests showed that these reproduced cosmetics fell short of the standards set for the modern-day cosmetics, but based on their mixing ratio, the spreadability and oil absorption capacity of some samples of the reproduced white powder were found to be similar to those of the modern cosmetics.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.197-206
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• 2009

Natural preservative agents are generally made of antibiotic substances that are extracted from plants. They are used mainly to keep in an original good state food, natural cosmetic goods and medicines which are likely to get rotten. The purpose of this study is to investigate whether natural preservative agents can be applied to fabrics for the preservation of textile cultural properties. For the purpose, this researcher experimented with a certain natural preservative agent which was developed to preserve natural cosmetic goods. The study found that when treated with the foresaid natural preservative agent whose ratio to water was 1%, fabrics showed little changes in color and tensile strength, almost neutral pH, high antibiosis and anti-fungus and high resistance to Bacillus cereus that is much detrimental to silk fabrics. As a part of the study, a preliminary test on the possibility of using natural preservative agents to preserve textile cultural properties, found that when kept covered up with the 1% natural preservative agent-treated fabrics for 72 hours, excavated textile relics showed a dramatic decrease in microbial growth.