• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.26 no.2
• /
• pp.81-95
• /
• 2014

In the present study, the statistical analysis on the storm waves in the East Sea have been carried out, and the several storm waves were reproduced by the modified WAM as a first step for the accurate and prompt forecasting and warning against the swell waves in East Sea. According to the present study, the occurrences of the storm waves from the North were the most probable, while the waves from the Northeast were most frequently observed. It was found that the significant wave heights of storm waves from the North and Northern northeast were larger than those of storm waves from the Northeast. But due to long fetch distance, the significant wave periods of storm waves from the Northesast were longer than those of North and Northern northeast. In addition to the wave analysis, the numerical experiments for the storm waves in East Sea were carried out using the modified WAM, and three periods of storm waves in 2013 were calculated. The numerical results were well agreed with wave measurements. However the numerical simulation results in shallow water region showed lower accuracies compared to deep water, which might be due to lower resolution of wind field and bottom topography caused by large grid size, 5 minute, adopted in the present study. Overall computational efficiency of the modified WAM found to be excellent compared to original WAM. It is because the modified WAM adopted the implicit scheme, thereby the present model performed 10 time faster than original WAM in computation time.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.11 no.4
• /
• pp.189-196
• /
• 1999

In order to verify a numerical model for the calculation of wave motion around an offshore barrier in shallow water, laboratory physical experiments are necessary. In this study, sample experiments are carried out on the wave and wave induced current fields due to a sloping bottom topography and on that due to an isolated structure from the coastline. The water body is divided into 4 levels, in which the current tracking floaters are deployed to measure the wave induced currents. Data measurement was continued using the limited wave gauges and current tracking floaters including a video camera from the top. The wave heights for the preselected surface and time-averaged velocity distributions at each level were measured in detail. The distribution of wave and current fields was analyzed precisely combining the whole measured laboratory data. Moreover, comprehensive analyses were carried out on non-linearity of wave transformation in terms of skewness and atiltness.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
• /
• v.26 no.6
• /
• pp.567-579
• /
• 1993

The response of sea levels to a typhoon in the north Japanese coast in the Japan Sea is investigated by using hourly ses level data($1966{\sim}1986$) and a numerical shallow water model with high resolution($5'{\times}5'$). The observed sea level analysis shows (1) progressive waves exist between Simonoseki(SS) and Maizuru(MZ) with the mean phase speed of about 4 m/s during the passage of the typhoon, (2) the phase speed between Sasebo(SB) and HK(Hakata) is slower(about 1.7 m/s), and (3) the maximum sea level at HK is achieved about 0.5 day later than that of SS. In many aspects, the numerical model results correspond well to the above observed features. In the model the progressive waves are identified as a topographic wave with the phase speed of about 4 m/s. Before the typhoon passes through the Korea Strait/ the Tsushima Strait, the wave propagations along the Japanese coast are significantly influenced by the southwestward coastal jet induced by the wind stress parallel to the coast. The waves start to propagate northeastward along the coast when the coastal jet is weakened.

• Water for future
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.67-73
• /
• 1985

Tidal propagation in the Keum River has been routinely handled by numerical integration of the long fravity wave equation by Dronkers. The dynamic equations include non-linear terms thereby reproducing the shallow water tides. The model was used to compute tidal distribution of the Kum River for aveage spring, mean, neap tidal conditions and further utilised to investigate the waterlevel response within tidal reaches by combined tide and flood discharge effects. The objective of this initial study is to investigate the tidal dynamics of the lower reaches of the Keum River under the condition of before-cross-channel barrage construction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.308-320
• /
• 2006

An analytic solution to the mild-slope equation is derived for waves propagating over an axi-symmetric pit. The water depth inside the pit varies in proportion to a power of radial distance from the pit center. The governing equation is transformed into ordinary differential equations by using separation of variables, and the coefficients of the equations are transformed into explicit forms by using Hunt's (1979) approximate solution. Finally, by using the Frobenius series, the analytic solution is derived. Due to the feature of Hunt's equation, the present analytic solution is accurate in shallow and deep waters, while it is less accurate in intermediate depth water. The validity of the analytic solution is demonstrated by comparison with numerical solutions. The analytic solution is also used to examine the effects of pit geometry and relative depth on wave transformation.

• The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
• /
• v.32 no.2
• /
• pp.95-103
• /
• 2013

An underwater acoustic (UWA) communication in shallow water is strongly affected by the water surface and the seabed acoustical properties. Every reflected signal to receiver experiences a time-variant scattering in sea surface roughness and a grazing-angle-dependent reflection loss in bottom. Consequently, the performance of UWA communication systems is degraded, and high-speed digital communication is disrupted. If there is a dominant signal path such as a direct path, the received signal is modeled statistically as Rice fading but if not, it is modeled as Rayleigh fading. However, it has been known to be very difficult to reproduce the statistical estimation by real experimental evaluation in the sea. To give an insight for this scattering and grazing-angle-dependent bottom reflection loss effect in UWA communication, authors conduct experiments to quantify these effects. The image is transmitted using binary frequency shift keying (BFSK) modulation. The quality of the received image is shown to be affected by water surface scattering and grazing-angle-dependent bottom reflection loss. The analysis is based on the transmitter to receiver range and the receiver depth dependent image quality and bit error rate (BER). The results show that the received image quality is highly dependent on the transmitter-receiver range and receiver depth which characterizes the channel coherence bandwidth.

• The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.8-16
• /
• 2004

An inversion method is presented for the determination of the compressional wave speed, compressional wave attenuation, thickness of the sediment layer and density as a function of depth for a horizontally stratified ocean bottom. An experiment for estimating those properties was conducted in the shallow water of South Sea in Korea. In the experiment, a light bulb implosion and the propagating sound were measured using a VLA (vertical line array). As a method for estimating the geoacoustic properties, a coherent broadband matched field processing combined with Genetic Algorithm was employed. When a time-dependent signal is very short, the Fourier transform results are not accurate, since the frequency components are not locatable in time and the windowed Fourier transform is limited by the length of the window. However, it is possible to do this using the wavelet transform a transform that yields a time-frequency representation of a signal. In this study, this transform is used to identify and extract the acoustic components from multipath time series. The inversion is formulated as an optimization problem which maximizes the cost function defined as a normalized correlation between the measured and modeled signals in the wavelet transform coefficient vector. The experiments and procedures for deploying the light bulbs and the coherent broadband inversion method are described, and the estimated geoacoustic profile in the vicinity of the VLA site is presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.188-196
• /
• 2009

This study conducted numerical simulations to analyze the wave characteristics(distribution) depending on the directional changes of waves in the Nakdong river estuary by using SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore) model. The results from the tests are summarized as below. The wave height rates are generally highly distributed with the incident waves from the S, SSE, SSW, SE, SW in sequence. When the waves from the S, SSW, SSE directions are predominant, the bigger waves were observed in front of sandbars. According to the results of the wave steepness against the wave direction, at the east coast of Gadeok island(northwest of Nakdong estuary), where has mild seabed slopes, the wave height rates distribute in the range of 0.4~0.6; the wave height rates over the west coastal region of Dadeapo(southeast of Nakdong estuary) are 0.5~0.6. The wave height rate tends to be rapidly decreased over the east region of Nakdong river estuary rather than its west region.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.2 no.3
• /
• pp.143-151
• /
• 1990

The sediment transport in shallow water regions has been studied in various ways and, accordingly, many formulas have been proposed. However, when these formulas are applied practically in the field, they are not sufficient to fully estimate the sediment transport rate yet. The primary reason is how to take into account the effect of irregularities of field waves : wave heights, periods and directions. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate stochastic and kinematic characteristics of waves in three dimensional random seas in order to more accurately estimate it. In particular, the asymmetrical properties of directional spectrum become significant and play an important role in various phenomena in a shallow water region. In this study, their effects of incident waves the joint distribution of wave heights, periods and directions are investigated through field measurements.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.28 no.5
• /
• pp.421-428
• /
• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.