• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.851-862
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• 2011

The purposes of this study were to identify the material manipulation techniques for paper garments and their characteristics. Reference books or articles were reviewed and catalogues from paper garments exhibition or show, brochures from Paper Museums, and internet sites of paper fashion designers were selected for analysis. Paper has much similarity with natural cellulose textiles in appearances and contents but has much distinct differences in their physical characteristics such as strength, durability, washability, and resilience, and could be treated as one category of textiles. Paper garments were developed with practicality and functionality for the poor and Buddist monks at first but progressed into more aesthetics later for the rich. Paper garments could be divided into 4 categories of garments made of paper, paper thread fabric or knit, modified paper with wanter, and beaten bark of mulburry bush. Paper can be manipulated by coloring & cutting, bonding, or quilting and bonding or quilting can reenforce the strength of paper but cannot increase flexibility. Paper manipulated by weaving or knitting has very similar physical properties as cotton or linen and ideal for summer textiles. Paper can be manipulated with water to make a paper paste and bodice can be moulded with paper paste or Joomchied. Also we can express beautiful patterns on the surface of paper by washouting. Konnyaku paste or lacquer can be used to make paper garments to be waterproof.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.91-100
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• 2000

As non-verbal communication medium, clothing has various form to express the artist's statement, for example, flattened clothing. On this thesis, three flattened clothing are analyzed, these works convey the meanings, 1) tradition/ contemporary 2) cynical attitude about body 9) new concept to wear

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.47-57
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• 2013

In terms of expression, beauty illustration has become more diverse and innovative. Because of continued unique creative activities, more novelty has been pursued. In this study, beauty illustration in new artistic and decorative images was used to investigate the basic concepts of art activities, illustration and beauty illustration and make up for beauty illustration which adheres to traditional and classical expressions. In this study, the following results were obtained: First, in terms of expression of beauty illustration, the work with art expressions are still poor compared to other fields such as fashion illustration. Therefore, it is necessary to attempt beauty illustration of a new image which expresses artistic emotions. Second, by using an artistic technique called 'paper sculpture', a semi-solid shape has been completed, and a decorative beauty illustration was created. People get new inspiration through beautiful and innocent art pieces, which in turn motivate to create new expression. New art activities which take a human body as an art support beauty activities through picture and more sensitive inspiration. It was attempted to express other emotion and beauty by observing a single piece of work. A new possibility in beauty illustration which is differentiated from other art activities is proposed and its domain is developed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.53-66
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• 2002

The spiral form, which comes from the organic form of natural phenomenon such as growth of creatures, has been used as a factor of formative shape in various fields of art until now. In conjunction herewith, this study intends to discover and express the life force and the formative beauty of natural substances with the organic spiral forms into clothing design, using various creating methods and materials such as Korean traditional paper. The natural substances with the spiral structure, such as seashells, land snails, passion flower, curled flower, growing chart of plants, Impatiens textori was used as subjects of the designs. The seven pieces of work were completed with attempts to develop aesthetic forms through the presentation techniques and methods via restructuring process of simplification, partial transformation and consolidation. Through such process the conclusion of this study is as follows: First, the nature, with unlimited possibilities, could be subject of human formative activities, leading to the creative world of formative art for designers. Second, adaptation of the spiral organic forms of nature into the contemporary clothing designs proved the motif as a source of inspiration of diverse subject, in recognition with its innate formative beauty as well as external shape. Third, design expressions via restructuring process of simplification, partial transformation and consolidation with designer's subjective point of view were adequate for the creations of contemporary fashion designs. Fourth, the Korean traditional paper, as a fine material for various shape according to the handling method, could be used appropriately in the contemporary clothing designs, expressing our aesthetic senses. Fifth and finally, expansion of the realm of formative expression of clothing through the development of possibilities of expression in contemporary clothing would enhance the creative possibilities of clothing design as formative art. In conclusion, the expression of clothing design as formative art was developed on the emphasis of re-creation of natural objects of the organic spiral form. For the future study, the applications of spiral form into everyday clothing designs, consolidating artistic senses and practical senses, are expected as opportunity of proposing developmental possibilities of the contemporary clothing designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.281-291
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• 1991

Kasugadaisha was built in the 9th century at Nara, Japan and it was the powerful Fujiwara's Shrine at that time. And also Wakamiyasai which has transmitted from generation to generation about for 1200 years at Kasugadaisha is typical sacrificial service of Nara Ages and it was built up with the historical background from Korean peninsula, especially Bekje. So it could be presumed to be important data to survey the sacrificial service in order to study on the ancient dietary culture of Korean and Japanese. 1) They used a live flower or paper flower in every sacrificial services. But in Korea, it has been used not only in the sacrificial services but also in happy events. And also it has been changed to use silk or developed rice cake instead of paper. 2) Steamed rice cake in Siru has been taken after boiled rice and unpolished rice. 3) Fried rice cake like doughnut was beginning of fried cake like Yak-kwa. 4) Four colors of red, yellow, green and white are symbolic at the high offering. There are a lot of cake, candy and some kind of biskuit four colors used in every events even now in Korea.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.41
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• pp.257-284
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• 2020

Goseong Ogwangdae started academic research in the late 1950s and was designated as a national intangible cultural asset in 1964. From the time of the academic survey to the time of designation, it was recorded as using paper masks, but when the recording image was filmed in 1965, it was already changed to wooden masks. In 1960, before being designated as an intangible cultural asset, the number of masks, which was 9 points, gradually increased to 19 points in 1964. It is necessarily included in the leper, Chorani, Malttuki, Cheongbo-Yangyang, Halmi, and Jemilju, but the character of the yangban is not yet clearly differentiated. Hwangbongsa and Sangju appeared as bare faces, and consumption, milling, Cheongbo-Yangyang are used together with Bibi and inspiration. It can be guessed that Bibi was not the appearance of a foreign object with horns as it is now, considering that Bibi and Madangsoi were used together. Since 1965, shortly after the designation, the whole of the Goseong Ogwangdae mask has been changed to a wooden mask. All the characters except for resident, courtyard, and top-of-the-line are wearing masks. Bibi, Hongbaek, and service masks have never appeared until 1964. The Yangban was changed to the closing ceremony with six people in the order of Won-Yangban, Baekje, Heukje, Cheongje, Hongbaek, and Jonggadoryong. Starting in 1969, the mask enters the stable period where the kind is the same as the present. Bibi-Yangban uses both the Won-Yangban and the Jemilju uses the Somu, but all other characters use the individual mask to use a total of 18 masks. The Yangbans are clearly differentiated, and a total of seven Yangban appear. The reason why the change in the type of mask and the expression of material is so large is that the first generation of mask makers died and the tradition of mask production was cut off, but there is also a cause of the extreme change in the environment of the drama that the performers who joined after the designation had to face. Also, it is closely related to the change of the times when the meaning and weight of masking in masking has changed. At that time, the performers were not so tied to the current concept of 'original form' that they preserved the appearance of the designated time. Originally, Goseong Ogwangdae was centered on improvisation dance, not the formalized dance as it is now, and there was a certain fluid aspect in the retelling, so it was flexible in the use of masks even before the designation of cultural assets. Strict rules did not apply in the details, as it was a self-sufficient play by the performers, not an offer event. The form and contents of this fluid play are changed to preparation for the performance while preparing for the folk art contest. As the subject of the contest in self-sufficient play, dance, costumes, and props became more and more colorful as well as dancing, costumes, and props. As a result, participation in the contest brought about changes in the overall performance and changed the mask, which was accepted within the preservation society.