조선왕조초기(朝鮮王朝初期)부터 농업초기정책(農業初期政策)은 지역농업(地域農業)의 현실적(現實的) 조건(條件)과 결부(結付)된 농사직설(農事直說)과 같은 농서(農書) 발간(發刊)에 의해 부여(附與)되었다. 그 책(冊)들은 새롭고, 집약적(集約的)인 농업기술(農業技術)을 제공(提供)하였다. 이 농서(農書)는 그 당시(當時)에 농촌지역(農村地域)에서 경험(經驗)된 우수한 농업기술(農業技術)을 수집(蒐集)하여 만든 것이다. 농사직설(農事直說)에 따르면 벼 재배(栽培)는 무삶이(담수직파법(湛水直播法)), 건삶이(건답직파법(乾畓直播法)), 이앙법(移秧法) 그리고 산도법(山稻法)(육도법(陸稻法))으로 분화(分化)되었다. 이들 농법(農法)에 구비된 고도기술적특성(高度技術的特性)은 과학적제초기술(科學的除草技術)과 적극적인 시비법(施肥法), 축력(畜力)과 인력용(人力用)의 농기(農機)로 일관되게 체계화(體系化)시킨 농작업방법(農作業方法)에 근거(根據)를 두고 있다는 점이다. 해안(海岸)의 습지(濕地)와 황지(荒地)의 개간(開墾)은 화경(火耕)와 윤목(輪木)이라 칭하는 제초장비(除草裝備)로 인하여 가능케 되었다. 또한 벼의 묘령단계(苗令段階)에서 토양(土壤)의 간인(間引), 토기작업(土寄作業)과 동시에 섬세한 제초작업(除草作業)을 할 수 있도록 분화(分化), 발달(發達)된 호미가 있었다. 직파(直播)벼재배(栽培)는 저류지(貯溜地)와 소택(沼澤)을 만들어 평야수전(平野水田)의 직파재배(直播栽培)를 가능케 하였으며, 곡간지답(谷間地畓)은 보(洑)를 만들어 개간했다. 이들은 관수(灌水)에 의해 제초를 쉽게 하는 동시에 관수중(灌水中) 무기영양(無機營養)을 통(通)한 토양비옥도(土壞肥沃度) 유지 및 벼의 생리적(生理的) 호조건(好條件)을 부여하여 논의 생산성(生産性)을 증대시킬 수 있었다. 또한 이앙(移秧)을 하면 더욱 성력재배(省力栽培)가 가능하였을 것이지만 전국적인 물의 사용제약성(使用制約性)때문에 이앙법(移秧法)을 원칙적으로 금해 오지 않을 수 없었다. 건전재배(乾田栽培)에서 직파재배(直播栽培)가 수립되었으며, 수도(水稻)가 직파(直播)되고 유묘기까지 건토(乾土)에 재배(栽培)되었으며 농사직설(農事直說)에서처럼 비올때 관수토양(灌水土壤)에 재배(栽培)되었다. 조선중기(朝鮮中期)(AD 1495-1725)에는 벼 농사(農事)에서의 제초효율(除草效率)과 편리성(便利性) 때문에 정조식(正條式) 이앙법(移秧法)을 포함한 탁월한 성력농법(省力農法)(한정록(閑情錄))과 벼 이앙에 근거(根據)(농사직설(農事直說))하여 못자리(묘대) 기술(벼의 조기이앙(早期移秧)이 강조(强調)되었다. 비료분(肥料分)을 다량투입(多量投入)하고 우력(牛力)을 이용(利用)하여 심경(深耕)해야 한다는 일련(一連)의 기술(技術)들은 토지(土地)와 노동생산성(勞動生産性)을 향상 시키는 것이었다. 농가집성(農家集成)때보다 산림경제(山林經濟)때에 발전된 사항은 오늘날의 육묘대법(陸苗垈法)과 마찬가지인 건앙법(乾秧法)을 개발하여 이앙재배(移秧栽培)하게 만든 것이며, 답이모작(畓二毛作)을 확립(確立)시켜서 답작(畓作)의 노동(勞動) 및 토지생산성(土地生産性)을 높이게 된 것이다. 이결과 소경영생산양식(小經營生産樣式)을 경영형(經營型) 부농적(富農的) 생산양식(生産樣式)으로 변화시켜 광작농법사회(廣作農法社會)를 태동(胎動)시켰다. 우하영(禹夏永)(1741-1812) 은 천일록(千一錄)을 통하여 당시의 광작농(廣作農)이 갖는 폐단을 집약적(集約的) 농법(農法)으로 개혁하고자 하였고, 그가운데 탁월한 견해로서 농지(農地)를 토질(土質)에 따라 이앙법(移秧法)과 grooving 파종법(播種法)(전(田))으로 땅(토지(土地))의 이용을 구분한 것이다. 특히 서유가(徐有架)(산림경제(山林經濟))가 주장한바 이앙(移秧)의 유리성(有利性)은 제초노력이 절감되고 묘대(苗垈)와 본답(本畓)의 토지기력(土地氣力)을 얻기 때문에 벼의 좋은 생육(生育)을 기대할 수 있다는 것이었다. 또는 벼를 뽑았다가 다시 심기 때문에 새롭게 기력이 얻어진다는 것이었다. 물론 이앙법(移秧法)에 앞선 재평가(再評價), 이모작(二毛作)의 한계성(限界性), 반답법(反畓法)의 제약론(制約論), 광작(廣作)의 폐단에 처한 금지론(禁止論)이 있었다. 그당시 이지연(李止淵)에 의해서 벼의 수도수분생이(水稻水分生理), 토지(土地) 및 제초(除草)의 편리성(便利性)을 고려한 수도직파재배법(水稻直播栽培法)이 쓰여 졌는데 그것은 가장 안정한 농가소득을 확보하는 창조적인 작부체계(作付體系)였다.
창덕궁 후원의 부용정(芙蓉亭)은 독특한 평면형태, 공간구성, 건물의 장식 등이 뛰어난 비례와 대비를 이루고 있는 점을 인정받아 2012년 3월 2일에 보물 제1763호로 지정되었다. 그러나 지정사유가 형이하학적으로 평가되었고, 그마저도 왜 지금과 같이 독특한 형태로 조영되었는지 명확하게 규명하지 못하였다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 역사적 배경을 바탕으로 자연철학 및 사상에 관한 형이상학적 접근을 시도하였고, 조영의도와 공간구조의 특징을 규명하여 부용정의 정체성을 찾는데 주력하였다. 요약된 결과는 아래와 같다. 첫째, 부용정의 조영배경 및 특징: 정조는 즉위와 함께 창덕궁 후원에 규장각(奎章閣)을 창설하고 개혁정치의 일환으로 초계문신(抄啓文臣)을 양성하였다. 또한 각신(閣臣)들을 가인(家人)처럼 우대해주며 친정체계를 구축하였다. 정조의 적극적인 개혁정치는 신하들에게 후원을 구경시켜주기는 계기가 되었으며, 정조 16년(1792)에 각신을 중심으로 한 내각상조회(內閣賞釣會)를 공식적으로 발족하고 후원유람을 정례화하게 되었다. 후원유람은 꽃을 보고 낚시를 하는 상화조어연(賞花釣魚宴), 난정수계의 활동 등으로 이루어졌고, 이후 국가의 대신들이 참석하게 되면서 큰 행사로 발전하게 되었다. 정조는 대신, 중신, 각신들과 이러한 문화 활동을 함께하고 나아가 자신의 왕도정치를 실현할 장소로써 부용정을 조영한 것이었다. 둘째, 부용정의 입지와 공간적 특성: 정조는 즉위(1776)와 함께 택수재를 새롭게 개축하였다. 무엇보다 개유와-택수재-원도-어수문-규장각을 축선에 맞춰 연계한 점은 자신의 정치적 이상을 실현하기 위해 현재의 규장각 일원을 계획-설계한 것으로 판단할 수 있다. 정조 17년(1793)에는 기존의 사우정(四隅亭) 형태였던 택수재를 군신(君臣)이 함께할 수 있는 공간으로 조성하기 위해 위계를 두어 증축하고 부용정이라 칭하였다. 지당 위에 위치한 부용정의 북쪽공간은 임금의 공간으로 다른 곳보다 한 단 높게 조성하였고 창호도아자살로 차별화한 특징을 보인다. 서쪽과 동쪽은 신하들의 공간이다. 중앙공간은 양측의 신하들이 북쪽공간에 입어한 임금을 배알하기 위해 마련된 공간이며, 서쪽과 동쪽의 신하들은 부용정의 귀퉁이 공간을 돌아 남쪽공간에서 중앙공간으로 입실하게 되는 구조로 조영되었다. 결국 부용정은 최소한의 공간으로 편전(便殿)의 기능까지 수행할 수 있도록 설계된 정원건축물인 것이다. 셋째, 부용정의 문화적 가치: 부용정 일원은 세조, 인조, 현종, 숙종, 정조 등 왕들의 사유적인 정원문화가 복합적으로 존재하며 꾸준히 발전된 특징을 보인다. 특히 정조는 선왕들이 조성해놓은 다양한 물리적, 사회적, 상상적 환경 등을 계승하였고 더불어 자신의 왕도정치를 위해 신하들을 후원에 불러들였으며 그 중추적 장소로 부용정을 완성한 것이다. 곧 부용정은 조선왕조의 영속성이 반영된 정원건축물로 그 가치를 높게 평가할 수 있으며, 공간적으로도 유교사상이 정자에 반영되어 위계가 구분된 독특한 사례로써 왕의 정원에서만 나타나는 특수성을 잘 보여주고 있다.
A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.