• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.12
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• pp.9-17
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• 2011

This study examined non-destructive UV-Vis spectrophotometry as well as 3-D fluorescence spectrophotometry of textile that made use of red dye such as Sappan wood, madder, Safflower, Gromwell. The authors produced two textile specimen that were dyed by not only two kinds of textile (cotton and silk) but also three kinds of mordanting (no-mordanting, alumen and iron), and they investigated effects of each dye material upon investigation results. At analysis with UV-Vis spectrophotometry of dyed textile specimen, dyeing made by sappan wood, madder and gromwell had significant difference depending upon mardant regardless of kinds of textile, and safflower had no significant difference depending upon textile and mordant. At analysis with 3D-fluorescence spectrophotometry, specimen dyed with sappan wood had difference with mordants, and with madder, there were difference with textiles, and safflower had inherent fluorescence spectrum regardless of textiles and mordants, while gromwell had no fluorescence spectrum.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.1-8
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• 1994

To improve the antimicrobial activity and crease resistance of Korean traditional Hansan ramie fabrics, partially saponified polyethylene(PPS) was used as a softening water repellent agent and 3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl dimethyl octadecyl ammonium chloride(QAC) as a antimicrobial agent. The antimicrobial activity was effective by treatments of PPS, QAC and PPS/QAC for shake flask test. For the halo test, PPS/QAC showed good antimicrobial activity. It was found that the desirable composition of H$_{2}$O/PPS/QAC is 98/1/1 for improving the antimicrobial activity and crease resistance of the fabrics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.91-91
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 아랍 중동지역 이슬람교 여성들이 착용하고 있는 베일이나 망토 형태의 전통의상(히잡(Hijab), 차도르(Chador), 아바야(Abaya) 등)에 사용되는 심색 제트블랙(Jet-Black) 소재를 개발하기 위하여, 고분자 조합에 의한 심초형 복합방사(POY 85/36) 및 열연신 복합가공사(ACY 135/72)를 개발, 심미적 심색성 및 세탁견뢰도가 우수한 Jet-Black 제품(L값 7.32)을 개발하였다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.404-415
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• 2003

The main purpose of this exploratory research was to examine the characteristics of consumers who patronize natural-dyed clothes and their perceptions regarding natural-dyed clothes. Thirty three participants who have worn natural-dyed clothes were interviewed for the study. They were asked about the styles and price of natural-dyed clothes they owned, their evaluation on them, and the lifestyles of themselves. Existence of subculture among the interviewes and its characteristics were also probed. The results indicated that natural-dyed clothes are relatively high-priced, mostly of modified hanbok style, and became popular in recent years. Interviewees frequently mentioned uniqueness and comfort as the main benefits of natural-dyed clothes, and expressed dissatisfaction regarding color fastness, easy care and problem of coordination. The consumers of natural-dyed clothes appeared to have strong preferences for environment conservation and Korean traditional culture. They also seemed to form a subcultural group who have commonality in their involvement in Korean cultural activities, mainly tea ceremony.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.197-207
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• 2013

The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles caused by $NO_2$. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 100, and 1000 ppm $NO_2$ gas in the test chamber at $20^{\circ}C$, 50% RH for 1 day. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. In the case of Korean traditional textile, color difference increased at 1 ppm/day, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration, carbonyl and C-$NO_2$ functional group increased while pH decreased at 10 ppm/day and tensile strength weakened at 100 ppm/day. when it comes to undyed textile, alteration of color difference on silk and hemp cloth, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration and tensile strength on hemp cloth was remarkable. In addition, color difference on blue and yellow textile, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration increase of yellow textile and tensile strength decrease of hemp cloth & ramie cloth were significant. The results suggest that critical $NO_2$ concentration of optical, chemical, and physical damage on Korean traditional textiles are 1ppm/day, 10 ppm/day, 100 ppm/day respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1963-1970
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• 2008

Natural indigo dye in powder form was prepared by modifying traditional Niram method, using $Ca(OH)_2$ instead of baked oyster powder for precipitating indigo dye. The prepared dye was applied to dyeing Tencel fabrics to investigate the effect of experimental conditions for the optimization of dyeing process. The indigo dye powder contained 15.2%(w/w) of indigo content and 0.757%(w/w) of indirubin content on the basis of HPLC analysis. Maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 20min. Almost saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 4g/L of indigo dye and then slowly increased for further increase of sodium hydrosulfite. Whereas at higher indigo dye concentration(8g/L) more than 3g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the maximum dye uptake. At the same indigo dye and reducing agent concentration, K/S value of the sample dyed without sodium hydroxide(pH 5.75) was 15.19, much higher than one dyed in alkaline condition(K/S 5.76). There was no difference in colorfastness ratings among samples with different color strength. However, more fading was occurred for the sample with low color strength.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.11
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• pp.61-72
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• 2010

This is the analysis of material dyed with Korean yellow dyes such as tumeric, amur cork tree, goldthread, gardenia, and the flowers of sophora japonica using nondestructive ultraviolet-visible and fluorescence spectrophotometry. In order to find out whether type of fabric or mordant influences analysis results, test fabrics were made using two types of fabric(silk and cotton) and dyed using three different mordants(no mordant, alum, iron). After analysis with UV-Vis reflectance spectrum on the dyed fabric, when the fabric was dyed with tumeric, amur cork tree and goldthread, the results were similar with no mordant and alum mordant, whereas there was a difference with an iron mordant. Also when the fabric was dyed using gardenia, different fabrics brought different results but there was no difference in results with mordants. On the other hand, when the fabric was dyed using the flowers of sophora japonica, there was no difference with fabrics but with mordants. After analysis with 3D-fluorescence spectrum, fabrics dyed with tumeric, amur cork tree and goldthread showed their own fluorescent spectrum with no regard to fabric and mordant; but with gardenia, there were differences with different fabrics whereas with the flowers of sophora japonica, there were differences with mordants.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.353-364
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• 2014

Formaldehyde(HCHO) may have a damage effect on Korean traditional textiles, because concentration is high and occurrence frequency is frequent at the exhibition room and storage area. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to HCHO gas in the test chamber. The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles according to HCHO concentration(0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500ppm), to temperature-humidity condition at HCHO 500ppm, and deterioration conditions at HCHO 500ppm. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. The results, color difference, grey scale rating, formate($HCO_2{^-}$) of some textiles increased at 500ppm, while pH decreased at 500ppm. Also, color difference, grey scale rating, formate($HCO_2{^-}$) of some textiles increased double damage at high temperatures & humidity, high humidity condition. But, damages of accelerated degradation textiles were slight, because of degradation degree and degradation products. The results suggest that determined the damage to the korean traditional textile, damage level, damage-weighted condition, damage to accelerated degradation textiles. In addition, formaldehyde damaged to yellowing of red textiles, bleaching of accelerated degradation textiles, formic acid damaged to bleaching of total 20 specimens.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2023.04a
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• pp.48-48
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• 2023

지역의 역사성을 지니고 발전한 전통색은 지역 문화와 자연환경에 영향을 받는다. 전통색은 일반적으로 관용색명으로 표현하는데, 이는 세계인의 공용어가 아니므로 우리의 천연염색을 국내외 일반인과 공유하기 위해서는 표준화된 색명(KS-계열색, RGB, CMYK)을 사용하는 것이 필요하다. 우리나라에서 염료재로 활용된 염료식물은 393종으로 알려져 있다. 본 연구에서는 염료식물의 자원 활용과 그 보전적 가치를 알리고자 염료식물을 언급한 고문서 및 현대자료를 바탕으로 사용 부위, 매염제의 종류, 염색 시 발현 색상의 관용색명을 조사하였고, 이를 국가표준색상환에 대입하여 표준화에 대한 방향성을 제시하고자 한다. 연구 결과에 따르면, 염료식물 393종 중 관용색명을 가진 염료식물은 312종이었고, 관용색명의 정보가 없는 식물은 81종으로 나타났다. 염료식물의 사용 부위 정보를 가진 식물은 187종이었고, 이용부위는 식물체 전체(전초), 뿌리, 줄기(껍질), 줄기(심재), 나뭇가지, 잎, 열매(껍질), 꽃이었다. 염료식물에 활용되는 매염재는 15가지(천연 6종, 화학 9종)로 나타났다. 관용색명을 가진 염료식물 312종에서 조사된 540개 관용색명을 표준화 시키기 위하여 국가표준색상환에 대입한 결과, 표준화된 색명(KS계통색명, RGB, CMYK)을 갖는 식물은 127종, 관용색명은 있지만 표준화된 색명을 확인할 수 없는 식물은 185종인 것으로 나타났다. 향후 염료식물을 연구하는데 있어서 관용색명의 정보가 없는 염료식물에 대한 표준화된 색명을 찾아내는 연구가 이루어져야 할 것이다.