• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.55-66
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• 2016

This study was aimed to characterize the color of cotton fabric dyed with three different natural resources such as persimmon, citrus, and brown algae and to propose new trend color themes for fashion color planning for newborn and toddler wear. A variety of color shades by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon, citrus, and brown algae respectively was obtained and each color was also determined if it could be matched with one of Pantone TPX considering authorized color trends for 2016 Spring/Summer. Finally a group of new trend color theme for 2016S/S newborn and toddler wear were proposed for naturally dyed cotton fabric. As results, the three natural dyeing resources gave color gamut with hue ranging from Purple Blue to Green Yellow and with tones including pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, and dull by their single and compound dyeing. A total of 23 colors matched to Pantone TPX were considered for the fashion color planning by natural dyeing. The selected natural colors were grouped as three different color ways and thereafter the color ways were differentiated in terms of representative color sensibility by using subjective evaluation. Finally three characterized color themes were proposed as 'Serenity', 'Juicy', and 'Fancy', each of which has tried to express differentiated feeling of each natural resources for dyeing, to follow up to global color trends, and to contribute to newborn and toddler wear's own requirements and marketability. These results suggest that natural dyeing colors could be applied into fashion color planning in current fashion industries in order to produce more sensible and emotional design of fashion goods using natural dyeing.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.4-25
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• 2013

Goli-su is the innovative special kind of the embroidery technique, which combines twining and interlacing skill with metal technology and makes the loops woven to each other with a strand. The loops floating on the space of the ground look like floating veins of sculpture and give people the feeling of the openwork. This kind of characteristic has some similarities with the lacework craft of Western Europe in texture and technique style, but it has its own features different from that of Western Europe. It mainly represents the splendid gloss with metallic materials in the Embroidered cloth, such as gold foil or wire. In the 10th century, early days of Goryo, we can see the basic Goli-su structure form of its initial period in the boy motif embroidery purse unearthed from the first level of Octagonal Nine-storied Pagoda of Woljeong-sa. In the Middle period of Joseon, there are several pieces of Goli-su embroidered relic called "Battle Flag of Goryo", which was taken by the Japanese in 1592 and is now in the Japanese temple. This piece is now converted into altar-table covers. In 18~19th century, two pairs of embroidered pillows in Joseon palace were kept intact, whose time and source are very accurate. The frame of the pillows was embroidered with Goli-su veins, and some gold foil papers were inserted into the inside. The triangle motif with silk was embroidered on the pillow. The stitch in the Needle-Looped embroidery is divided into three kinds according to comprehensive classification: 1. Goli-su ; 2. Goli-Kamgi-su ; 3. Goli-Saegim-su. From the 10th century newly establishing stage to the 13th century, Goli-su has appeared variational stitches and employed 2~3 dimensional color schemes gradually. According to the research of this thesis, we can still see this stitch in the embroidery pillow, which proves that Goli-suwas still kept in Korea in the 19th century. And in terms of the research achievement of this thesis, Archetype technology of Goli-su was restored. Han Sang-soo, Important Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 80 and Master of Embroidery already recreated the Korean relics of Goli-su in Joseon Dynasty. The Needle-Looped embriodery is the overall technological result of ancestral outstanding Metal craft, Twining and Interlacing craft, and Embroidery art. We should inherit, create, and seek the new direction in modern multi-dimensional and international industry societyon the basis of these research results. We can inherit the long history of embroidering, weaving, fiber processing, and expand the applications of other craft industries, and develop new advanced additional values of new dress material, fashion technology, ornament craft and artistic design. Thus, other crafts assist each other and broaden the expressive field to pursue more diversified formative beauty and beautify our life abundantly together.