• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.10 no.11
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• pp.603-612
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• 2012

When it comes to a country's traditional ideas. that country's geographic setting and religious thought show the people's consciousness, and the characteristics of historic sites and relics show their cultural aspects. Our country has 5000-year cultural history. Especially, the Baekje cultural history created very remarkable relics in our history. With regard to Baekje's own patterns and workmanship, their ornaments were more focused on the beauty of soft and voluptuous curves than that of Goguryeo and Silla This study researched design characteristics of ornaments and symbolic aspects of the patterns by focusing on crowns, crowns' accessories, earrings, necklaces, chignon ornaments of the Baekje's ornaments, To put emphasis on Baekje's ornaments by comparing Baekje's ornaments with Goguryeo's and Silla's. This study collected data on Baekje's ornaments, and reviewed domestic references and specialty publications at the Buyeo National Museum, Gong-ju National Museum, home and abroad, and studied the images of Baekje's metal crafts and patterns through theses. Baekje had splendid and glorious artistic culture, but there are not many historical data and supportive relics left these days. Therefore, a lot of attention, researches and development on Baekje culture are needed. This study found that the ornaments of the Baekje era have not only ornament functions but also the people's creative mind. The culture contents in recent technological development and industrialization change people's recognition, and now they have interest in Baekje culture. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to widely popularize Baekje by studying the patterns of the Baekje era more and developing various and new designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.127-142
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• 2006

In this study, I have analyzed Indian traditional clothing in fashion design of 21st century by comparing 1,286 fashion items designed by Indian designers and 722 Western fashion items, which were presented from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W Formal analysis were made for change in how to wear clothes, and change in items and ornaments. Change of traditional clothing was found in two ways; Western elements added to Indian tradition and Indian traditional image adopted in Western clothing. First, Indian traditional elements added to Western clothing in the formal aspect was found in 83% of Western collections and 27.2% of the Indian designers' collections. In Indian designers' collections, traditional clothing form takes 72.8%, which shows the regional characteristics of India where the traditional clothing is still adhered to in daily life especially by women. Second, from the fashion design of the Indian designers, we can find modernization of sari, change of traditional items into more active and modern way by adding Western clothing; change of form, color and material of traditional items in various ways; and decorative aspects highlighted by adding Indian traditional color, pattern or decoration into Western clothing. In most cases, Western collections are seasoned with Indian traditional image, rather than utilizing the form of Indian clothing. Although adopting the farm of Indian traditional clothing, it can be considered as a translation from the viewpoint of the West. Third, Indian look is expressed in various ways by reproducing Indian traditional ornaments such as earings, bracelets and henna, or by adopting Indian traditional fabric design and decoration in mufflers, bags and etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1727-1738
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• 2002

세계화, 국제화, 개방화 시대에 살고 있는 우리가 통과의례나 전통 명절과 같은 특별한 행사에 의례복으로 한복을 애용하는 것은 한복이 한국의 문화적 이미지를 강하게 간직하고 있는 한국적 조형물 중의 하나이기 때문이다. 더우기 의례복은 특별한 행사 자체를 위해 착용되었던 만큼 당시대의 내 적 가치를 가장 현저하게 표출하고 있는 복식으로 인정 할 수 있기 때문이다. 본 연구의 목적은 시대 적으로 현대 전통 한복의 기본 형 식을 제공한 조선시대와 그 이후의 복식 중에서 특히 분명한 착용동기와 목적, 복식을 통해 나타내고자 하는 상징성 등을 함축하고 있는 아동용 의례복을 대상으로 복식의 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재 등의 조형 요소를 고찰하는 것이다. 또한 양식적 특성을 살펴보고, 그러한 조형적 특성을 형성시킨 당시대의 사상적 가치를 추론해 보는 것이다. 구체 적인 연구 방법은 먼저 관련된 문헌 고찰을 통한 이론적 배경을 토대로 하여 아동용 의례복의 범주를 설정하고 현재 보전중인 실물과 또는 사진, 풍속화에 나타난 복식 자료들을 수집하였다. 그리고 당시대의 사상적 배경에 대한 고찰을 병행하여 이들에 내재된 문화적 가치를 추출해 보았다. 연구 결과 양식적 특징으로는 남아의 두루마기나 전복 그리고 쓰개류 등에서 기능성을 고려한 변형적 양식이 나타나고 있었다. 색채 역시 음양 보색이나, 오행색을 바탕으로 한 기본색의 구성 이외 에도 소매나 섶에 응용된 색의 배열이나 맞깃 전복의 깃에 나타난 색의 조화는 다양한 색의 조형미를 표현하고 있었다. 특히 색동 등에 나타난 오행색의 배열, 안감과 겉감, 상의와 하의, 외의와 내의에 사용된 색의 조화는 미의식에 관한 문화적 가치를 추론해 볼 수 있다. 더우기 장식 표현에 주로 쓰인 자연물 문양이나 글자 문양은 당시의 지배 사상이 지향하는 덕목 이외에도 전통적으로 내재된 수명과 복록, 부귀와 영화에 대한 내적 가치들을 반영하는 조형적 상징들이라 할 수 있다. 소재는 비교적 계절을 고려하여 사용되고 있었지만 의례적 성격을 지닌 외의나 쓰개류의 경우 계절적 구분을 고려하지 않은 경우도 많이 나타나고 있었다. 장신구의 경우는 많이 사용되는 것은 아니나 역시 상징적 인 가치를 표현하는 실물들을 미적으로 재구성한 사례들이 나타나고 있었다. 이상의 연구를 통해 아동용 전통 의례복은 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재, 장신구 등에서 양식의 다양성과 변형들을 알 수 있었다. 또한 적극적인 내적 가치의 상징들을 복식을 통해 표현하고 있었음을 알 수 있었다. 현대 복식의 디자인에 있어 아동용 의례복에 나타난 창조적인 양식의 변형과 다양성 그리고 복식을 통한 내적 가치의 반영 등이 현대 사회와 조화를 이룬 실질적인 복식 디자인 제시 및 창작에 작은 영감으로 작용하길 바란다.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.71-92
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• 2023

This study investigates the symbolism and meaning of the bead design, its relationship with the Silla culture, and the conditions of glass bead manufacturing to verify the theory of Silla's production of Silla face-inlaid glass beads with excellent artistry and technology. The research method includes investigating the design analysis, ancient documents, myths, relics, glass, and metal production techniques. Moreover, Hongshan cultural relics and other cases of inlaid glass beads were collected. There are records in the literature that the people of Makhan, Buyeo and Silla of ancient Korea people considered beads as treasures and used them for accessories. It was confirmed that all the design elements of the bead-patterned hair topknot, golden crown, birds, and flower trees were closely related to the myth of Kim Al-ji of Silla, the oviparous tales and the sacred birds and divine beasts of the north. Moreover, the pattern and arrangements were found to be similar in other Silla relics. The origin of beads and face pendants was Hongsan culture, and a stone cast for beads was discovered in Bukpyo of Gojoseon, the lower-level culture of Hajiajeom. In addition, excavating inlaid glass beads from Sik-ri tombs of Korea and a face-inlaid glass bead from Toganmori tombs in Japan confirms the theory of Silla's production. The fact that the Baekje people of ancient Korea had a glass bead manufacturing office in Japan in the fifth centuries suggests that the Silla people also had a manufacturing plant in Java, Indonesia, because this place was a crossroads of Silla's Sea Silk Road and a source of raw materials and labors with a close relationship to Silla. Therefore, the face-inlaid glass bead was indeed self-made by Silla, who possessed the tradition of bead myths and hair topknot, and the high-level skills such as gold crowns and metal inlays.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.212-223
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• 2012

Pigments used paintings, ornaments, weapons and various objects have been recognised as important elements to ascertain the history, manufacturing technique and cultural migration. Since the understanding of composition of pigments by analysis began in 1963, its technique and methodology has much advanced in recent years; recent study used the portable X-ray Fluorescence as non-destructive analysis has been practiced in particular. However the study on pigments necessitates overall and systematic research because it is difficult to understand periodical and regional use of pigments. by fractional studies. Therefore this research investigates the coloring materials and painting techniques of the scroll painting depicting preaching scene of Sakyamuni Buddha in Daeungjeon Hall, a main hall of Bulguk temple, through scientific analysis and comparison of various pigments which had been applied to the buddhist paintings of Joseon Dynasty. Consequently, it is confirmed that the scroll painting used pigments of white lead[$2PbCO_3{\cdot}Pb(OH)_2$] for ground layer and used mixture of different pigments such as cinnabar (HgS) minium($Pb_3O_4$) malachite($2CuO{\cdot}CO_2{\cdot}H_2O$) hematite($Fe_2O_3$) gold(Ag) for presenting various colors on the painting layer. It has been also believed that mineral pigments were applied to the scroll painting, yet it is difficult to confirm whether it is natural or synthetic pigments because the crystal structures of pigments were not analyzed. The results of this study, however, provide useful reference data for the understanding of the components of pigments and manufacturing techniques of buddhist scroll paintings, in particular, of Joseon Dynasty.