• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.127-142
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• 2006

In this study, I have analyzed Indian traditional clothing in fashion design of 21st century by comparing 1,286 fashion items designed by Indian designers and 722 Western fashion items, which were presented from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W Formal analysis were made for change in how to wear clothes, and change in items and ornaments. Change of traditional clothing was found in two ways; Western elements added to Indian tradition and Indian traditional image adopted in Western clothing. First, Indian traditional elements added to Western clothing in the formal aspect was found in 83% of Western collections and 27.2% of the Indian designers' collections. In Indian designers' collections, traditional clothing form takes 72.8%, which shows the regional characteristics of India where the traditional clothing is still adhered to in daily life especially by women. Second, from the fashion design of the Indian designers, we can find modernization of sari, change of traditional items into more active and modern way by adding Western clothing; change of form, color and material of traditional items in various ways; and decorative aspects highlighted by adding Indian traditional color, pattern or decoration into Western clothing. In most cases, Western collections are seasoned with Indian traditional image, rather than utilizing the form of Indian clothing. Although adopting the farm of Indian traditional clothing, it can be considered as a translation from the viewpoint of the West. Third, Indian look is expressed in various ways by reproducing Indian traditional ornaments such as earings, bracelets and henna, or by adopting Indian traditional fabric design and decoration in mufflers, bags and etc.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2004.04a
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• pp.40-43
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• 2004

연극은 인류와 함께 시작되어 인류의 생활과 밀접한 관계를 맺어왔으며 인류의 생활을 재현하거나 인류의 바람을 표현하는 과정에서 시간과 공간을 아우르는 종합예술로 성장하였다. 세계 희극 예술의 근간이 된 3대 주류로는 그리스의 비극과 희극, 인도의 범극, 중국의 희곡을 들 수 있는데 이는 세계 연극 형성에 큰 영향을 끼쳤다. ‘희곡(戱曲)’은 중국의 전통 연극을 일컫는 독특한 용어이다. (중략)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.941-955
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• 2003

In this study, the researcher investigated how tailored garment were accepted and developed in India where the traditional costumes, such as Sari and Dhothi, excluding the tailored process, were mainly worn. It is suspected that pants and coats were first introduced during the Kushan Dynasty but they scarcely influenced on the costumes of India. In the 7th Century when Islam made its entrance in India, pants and coats were not accepted in India due to the exclusive attitudes of Indians, Hindu. Pants and coats were worn locally as Indian costumes through the Islamic Mughul Empire in the 16th Century. During that period, the cultural exchange between Islam and Hindu made the change of the clothes of India reflected the mixing of Islamic and Hindu elements. The colonization of India by Great Britain that was the turning point for diverse kinds of tailored garment in the costume history of India inasmuch as western elements were introduced. The western style tailored method and design changed the appearance of Indian pants into slimmer style. The style spread and influenced on the design of indian clothes greatly; hence, western style shirts and coats were accepted in India.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.392-402
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• 2012

The norm for everyday costume in India and Indonesia had consisted of either draped garments or loincloths. However, as the Islamic values spread in these countries various tailored clothes began to be worn. In order to study this spread of tailored clothes, the researcher first looked at the historical background which was the origin of Islamic costumes and its unique traits through the works of literature. Based on these findings, the researcher tried to identify the Islamic elements in the costumes of India and Indonesia. The researcher put forward the following conclusion: In India, people began to wear Islamic costumes after the establishment of Mughul Empire (1526~1857) in the 16th century, despite the Islamic invasion in the early 8th century. The pants that the ruling class of Islam wore such as shalwar, churidar and coats in the style of kaftan as well as turban spread quickly throughout the nation and now they are important part of Indian traditional costumes. Also in Indonesia, people began to wear tailored clothes as they accepted Islamic faith. The Indonesian costumes which exposed the upper body part may have been suitable for the climate but it was inappropriate according to the Islamic precepts. The religious beliefs led to the creation of the unique Indonesian sarong, wraps such as kain panjang and a new type of traditional costumes that combined the elements of pants or tunic from the Islamic culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.129-141
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• 2007

In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.133-147
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• 2006

This paper deals with utilization of traditional Indian textile design found in 21st century fashion. It examines the decoration of the traditional Indian textile design which inspires and widely adopted in the modern fashion design, and the immanent meaning of the traditional pattern. This paper also analyzes the trend of its utilization in the modern fashion design. In order to examine variety of Indian textile design and its modernization, the Indian ethnic dresses found in 21st century western designer collections were compared with the Indian traditional textile design adopted by Indian fashion designers. The result of the study shows followings : Firstly, the typical traditional decoration in Indian textile design contains plangi, chintz, ikat, roghan and embroidery (mirror-work), and the traditional Indian patterns are roughly divided into natural pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern and geometric pattern. Secondly, comparison of 203 fashion items of world top 4 collections with 422 fashion items of Indian designer's collections shows that the paisley pattern obtains the majority in western design collections, while the geometric pattern in Indian designer collections. Thirdly, the comparison and analysis of the 21st century western fashion design shows that the traditional Indian textile design is mostly used in the seasonal trend color or is mixed & matched with other patterns. You can also find the feeling of the traditional Indian patterns in some western collections. In Indian designer collections, on the other hand, the traditional Indian patterns are widely used in the manner that they maintain the traditional feeling, while they are reconstructed in modern style.