• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.18-34
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• 2013

This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.39
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• pp.325-355
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• 2019

On June 12, 1791, the old bachelor Kim Hee-jip and the old lady Shin Deok-bin's Daughter get married. The wedding ceremony is a state-led so-called 'virgin virgin bachelor's marriage project'. At that time, the king ordered the recorder to record the case, which is called . The private sector also made it into a work, which is the Chinese drama written by LeeOk(李鈺). was created with the purpose of praising the king, and it inserted entertainment elements into it, so it had a frame of plays, but it did not have a performance in mind from the beginning. LeeOk uses different styles in each of the four acts. He tried to soothe his boredom by setting tales and proverbs in Acts 1 and 2, Pansori in Act 3, and drama in Act 4. In 1918, BaekDooYong(白斗鏞) published DongSangGiChan[東床記纂], which is combines drama and Yadam . In previous studies, these two were perceived as different works, but the two rooms were closely linked: the link was 'someone recognize me[知 己]'. He understood the table of contents made by Lee as 'JaeHyun(才賢)', 'deokhye(德慧)', 'Kwontaek(眷澤)', 'Bokyeon(福 緣)' respectively, and recorded the version of the yadam that fits it in . From acts 1 to 4, Baek contained his desire in it by constructing 'someone recognizes me → I recognize someone → do good things[積善] → blessings[餘慶]'. This is why we can't comprehend and as completely different works.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.43-52
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• 2017

While going into troops for writing in the vignette style(小品文) in opposition to the Classical Chinese(古文), Yi Ok stopped by Songgwangsa Temple in Wanju. The things he felt during this stop were recorded in the Temple Chapter("寺觀") written in 1795. Therefore, the present dissertation evaluates the Songgwangsa Temple of the time based on this Temple Chapter. Data in the Temple Chapter draws attention to the fact that it records the layout of the temple in detail. Thus the study was able to confirm the change in layout by reviewing relevant records about repair. This reveals that the form of layout in general has been maintained although there were changes involving the relocation of the buildings and their names. Furthermore, the original Buddhist building was changed to a quarter for the monks. Also, in terms of layout after the 18th century, there are frequent name changes of the Myeongbujeon(冥府殿) and Nahanjeon(羅漢殿). After two repairs, in order to find the appearance of a Daeungjeon(Main Buddhist hall) with a two-storied structure of five bays at the front, the study evaluated the Geugnakjeon at Muryangsa Temple and the Daeungbojeon at Magoksa Temple. The evaluation revealed that the 'Jeol' used in the Temple Chapter were small pillars erected on a ridgepole just like the Geugnakjeon at Muryangsa Temple, and that the angle rafters were installed to corner bays in rectangular form. The intellectual Yi Ok left behind invaluable architectural data that reveals the Songgwangsa Temple of the 18th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.164-178
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• 2014

Historically, white clothes have been passed down through the generations as the symbol of the Korean people. This study was motivated after coming across a text written by Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815), a writer during the Joseon dynasty. Lee wrote that "Koreans mostly wear blue clothes." This raised questions regarding the wearing practice of the white clothes at the time of King Jeongjo's reign(1776~1800), and led to further studies on the matter. The results show that discussions were held about changing the color of the government official's changui(氅衣) from white to blue. An order was also given replacing white boots with black boots. Therefore, it is supposed that blue clothes phenomenon was influenced from the blue changui policy. However, this change was temporary as later generations wore preferred white with the exception being women's skirts. Women preferred blue skirts to white skirts for a long period. Detailed analysis of the white changui showed that people were burdened by high dyeing costs, and this was a big factor as studies indicated a large gap in wealth disparity. In a society that put funeral and ancestral rites as one of its priorities, the white clothes could have been favored due to its multi-functional use. Also, the noblemen who set importance on Gija(箕子) Joseon connected white clothes custom to Gija. This connotes that the reason for wearing white clothes differed depending on the class. And as white clothes were widely worn, people developed different ways of wearing the clothes for aesthetic purposes.