• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.18-34
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• 2013

This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제39호
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• pp.325-355
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• 2019

1791년 6월 12일, 노총각 김희집과 노처녀 신덕빈의 딸의 혼인이 이루어 졌다. 이 혼인식은 국가가 주도해 시행한 일종의 노처녀노총각 혼인 프로젝트라 부를 만한 것이었다. 혼인은 인륜의 시작으로, 때를 놓치면 천지의 조화로운 기운[和氣]이 상한다던 당대 통념을 염두에 둔 정조가 진두지휘한 국가 정책이었다. 정조는 이 사건을 이덕무에게 기록하게 했는데, 그것이 <김신부부전>이다. 민간에서도 이 혼인에 주목했는데, 이옥(李鈺)은 희곡의 틀을 빌어 <동상기>를 창작했다. <동상기>는 가난한 백성에게 덕화를 베푼 임금을 찬양한다는 주지 아래, 오락적 요소를 가미한 텍스트다. 희곡을 모방했지만, 공연은 염두에 두지 않았다. <동상기>를 두고 수준 낮은 작품이란 평가는 이를 고려하지 않고 완정한 극적 구성물로 이해했던 결과다. <동상기>는 극 형식만 차용했을 뿐, 주된 목적은 임금의 덕화를 찬양하되 다양한 오락적 요소를 틈입시킴으로써 축제의 장을 담아내려 했다. <동상기> 4개의 절(折)마다 각각 다른 문체가 사용된 것도 그러하다. 1절과 2절에는 설화와 속담, 3절에는 판소리, 4절에는 연극을 배치시켰다. <동상기>를 통해 공연하겠다는 의도 대신 무료함을 달래기 위해 여러 문체를 적용한 것이다. 이후 1918년 한남서림 주인 백두용은 이옥의 <동상기>에 기존 야담 <동상기찬>을 더한 동상기찬을 출판한다. 기존 연구에서는 <동상기>와 <찬>을 별개의 텍스트로 인지했지만, 기실 둘은 긴밀하게 연계되어 있다. 애초 김신 부부가 임금이 살펴줌으로써 인륜의 도리를 할 수 있었던 것처럼, 백두용은 근대로 전환하는 도정에서 누군가가 자신을 알아봐 줄 것을 고대했다. 나를 알아주는 누군가를 만나는 것. 백두용은 그 단서를 임금이 가난한 백성에게까지 눈길을 미쳤던 <동상기>에서 찾았던 것이다. 그에 따라 백두용은 이옥이 쓴 정일(正目)을 각각 '재현(才賢)', '덕혜(德慧)', '권택(眷澤)', '복연(福緣)', '보유(補遺)'로 분류하고, 기존 야담에서 해당 범주에 맞는 작품을 선취하여 <찬>을 만들었다. 그러니 <동상기>와 <찬>은 '지기(知己)'라는 연결 고리로 이어진다. 실제 백두용은 1절에서 4절까지를 '누군가가 나를 알아줌 → 내가 누군가를 알아줌 → 적선→ 여경(餘慶)'으로 각각 구성함으로써 자신의 욕망을 구체화했다. 우리가<동상기>와 <찬>을 분리시켜 다룰 수 없는 까닭이다.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.43-52
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• 2017

While going into troops for writing in the vignette style(小品文) in opposition to the Classical Chinese(古文), Yi Ok stopped by Songgwangsa Temple in Wanju. The things he felt during this stop were recorded in the Temple Chapter("寺觀") written in 1795. Therefore, the present dissertation evaluates the Songgwangsa Temple of the time based on this Temple Chapter. Data in the Temple Chapter draws attention to the fact that it records the layout of the temple in detail. Thus the study was able to confirm the change in layout by reviewing relevant records about repair. This reveals that the form of layout in general has been maintained although there were changes involving the relocation of the buildings and their names. Furthermore, the original Buddhist building was changed to a quarter for the monks. Also, in terms of layout after the 18th century, there are frequent name changes of the Myeongbujeon(冥府殿) and Nahanjeon(羅漢殿). After two repairs, in order to find the appearance of a Daeungjeon(Main Buddhist hall) with a two-storied structure of five bays at the front, the study evaluated the Geugnakjeon at Muryangsa Temple and the Daeungbojeon at Magoksa Temple. The evaluation revealed that the 'Jeol' used in the Temple Chapter were small pillars erected on a ridgepole just like the Geugnakjeon at Muryangsa Temple, and that the angle rafters were installed to corner bays in rectangular form. The intellectual Yi Ok left behind invaluable architectural data that reveals the Songgwangsa Temple of the 18th century.

• 복식
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• 제64권8호
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• pp.164-178
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• 2014

Historically, white clothes have been passed down through the generations as the symbol of the Korean people. This study was motivated after coming across a text written by Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815), a writer during the Joseon dynasty. Lee wrote that "Koreans mostly wear blue clothes." This raised questions regarding the wearing practice of the white clothes at the time of King Jeongjo's reign(1776~1800), and led to further studies on the matter. The results show that discussions were held about changing the color of the government official's changui(氅衣) from white to blue. An order was also given replacing white boots with black boots. Therefore, it is supposed that blue clothes phenomenon was influenced from the blue changui policy. However, this change was temporary as later generations wore preferred white with the exception being women's skirts. Women preferred blue skirts to white skirts for a long period. Detailed analysis of the white changui showed that people were burdened by high dyeing costs, and this was a big factor as studies indicated a large gap in wealth disparity. In a society that put funeral and ancestral rites as one of its priorities, the white clothes could have been favored due to its multi-functional use. Also, the noblemen who set importance on Gija(箕子) Joseon connected white clothes custom to Gija. This connotes that the reason for wearing white clothes differed depending on the class. And as white clothes were widely worn, people developed different ways of wearing the clothes for aesthetic purposes.