• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2004년도 정기총회 및 춘계학술대회
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• pp.81-83
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• 2004

본 연구의 목적은 19세기 이후 이성 중심의 인간주의적 운동의 전개로 갖게 되었던 신체에 대한 고정 관념이 20세기 중반 이후 사이버 사회가 도래하면서 어떠한 변화를 겪었으며, 이러한 변화가 남성 패션에 어떠한 형식으로 표출되었는가를 고찰하는 것이다. 이를 위해 다음과 같은 연구 문제를 설정하였다. 첫째, ‘사이버’라는 용어의 개념은 무엇인가? 둘째, 사이버 사회 도래 이후 남성의 신체에 대한 관념이 어떠한 변화를 겪게 되었는가? 셋째, 이러한 변화의 사회 심리적 배경은 무엇인가? (중략)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권6호
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• pp.1017-1034
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• 2021

The "Escape the corset" movement raises the question of gender norms in dressing by rejecting the socially established ideal women's clothing. The context is similar to Rational dress of the 19th century, which claimed that women could also wear pants. Cartoons and webtoons reflect the characteristics of each era, including images and stories, and express social problems of the time implicitly and satirically. Thus, this study examined women's clothes expressed in cartoons and webtoons and analyzed their characteristics. The results are as follows. As an expression to the recipient of both clothes, women tried to form their identity through a rational attitude and break away from their embellishment, which was regarded as oppression from society. On the other hand, as an expression of the attitude of others towards the recipient of both clothes, people argued the changed appearance of women as a non-ideal form which should be corrected. This study is significant for proving that the dressing contains gender norms of the time beyond the trends.

• 복식
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.271-280
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• 2000

복식은 조형적 구성의 측면에서 그시대의 예술양식을 수용, 표출한다. 최근에 이르러서는 복식과 예술분야가 통합적 조형양식으로 존재하면서 동시대적 사상이나 이슈를 반영할 뿐 아니라 여타 문화현상들과 상호의존적 또는 상호수정보완적 관계를 유지하고 있다. 따라서 일련의 전위적인 디자이너들에 의해 시도되고 있는 아방가르드적 현상으로서 해체주의적 현상을 밝힘은 그동안 논의되왔던 조형양식적 측면과 미학적 측면에서의 복식을 재조명하는 그 의의가 있다. 해체주의 패션은 모더니즘적 양식을 반박하여 형식이나 구성에 있어 전위가 몰형식과 비구조화의 형태를 띄고 있으며 그것은 외형적 구조로서만이 아니라 인식론이나 내재론적 측면에서도 이성적 주체관, 현전의 형이상학, 이분법적 사고의 붕괴 둥을 의미하는 것으로 현대패션이라는 커다란 흐름을 고유함으로써 상호보완적인 역할을 수행하고 있다. 즉 양식의 이종교배, 과거양식의 인식, 복합성과 모호성, 다양한 매체의 이용 등과 같은 패션 트랜드 속에서 재해석되고 변경, 수용되어 존재하고 있다고 할 수 있다.