• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.165-180
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• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.3-18
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• 1996

The aim of this study is to clarify the style of fashion design which represented three types of erotic mood. And it will have its significance in finding out some standards which call be applied to practical designing. The positive analysis on this study is composed of two parts-the analysis of fashion journals and of questionaire. Analysis of fashion design is to seize and to compare frequence of 17 style of fashion design in the delivery of erotic mood in $\ulcorner$Mot$\lrcorner$ and $\ulcorner$Vogue$\lrcorner$. The questionaire is to investigate preference and inclination of perception in erotic mood of 17 style of fashion design by sex and age. The results were as follows: 1) In $\ulcorner$Vogue$\lrcorner$ than in $\ulcorner$Mot$\lrcorner$ erotic style ate actively made use of. 2) To suggest style of fashion design expressed 3 moods of erotic can be applied to practical designing is as follows. Expression of 'romantic & mysterious' mood is desirab]e exposed body line in motion style in male, twenties and thirties. Expression of 'seductive h stimulating' mood is desirable bosom exposure, leg exposure, adhere of bosom, adhere of waist, seen-through leg, slit, exposed body line in motion style in male and twenties and seen-through bosom, adhere of hip, slash style in male. This mood is desirable exposed body line motion style in thirties and forties. Expression of 'sensuous & attractive' mood is desirable bosom exposure, leg exposure, adhere of bosom, adhere of waist, seen-through leg, slit, exposed body line in motion style in male and twenties and adhere of hip, seen-through bosom, slash style ill male. And this mood is desirable adhere of waist, arm exposure style in female and adhere of waist, exposed body line in motif style in thirties and forties.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.848-856
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• 2008

In today's world where a preference for prestigious brands prevails, it's essential to have creative design conceptions rather than try simple mimicking or following in order to be recognized for creative and objective design works. In that sense, the development of clothes design using construction lines offers a great approach towards the ideas of reinterpreting and creating new designs since it creates new forms by understanding lines as signs of conception and transforming them. That approach allows a designer to improve his or her imagination, creativity and expression in a freer and richer manner, think of many original ideas through diverse changing processes, and develop the skill to visualize the ideas by incorporating geometric forms of abstract lines into clothes. When approaching the conception of clothes design from the standpoint of construction lines, you need to adopt more specific and systematic design methods instead of vague imagination to introduce simple facts or theories to a new design process. That's one of the ways you can approach clothes design easily and enhance your conception skills. The process of clothes design according to the conception of construction lines is composed of the following stages; the preparation stage involves an understanding of the principles and the entire process of clothes design conception based on construction lines; the idea stage requires a designer to make free alterations of the given basic construction lines by moving and replacing the lines and sides in diverse ways; in the creation and expression stage, the designer uses the newly reconstructed construction lines to create clothes design; and in the evaluation stage, the designer makes a presentation of his or her subjective design works and has his or her works assessed and tested in an objective fashion. In today's modern society that demands new and original globalized design, the results of the study will help to invigorate the development of new fashion design in a more systematic and practical manner by suggesting a feasible and gradual educational program for the development of design based on the technique of construction lines.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1427-1438
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• 1997

The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.629-637
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• 2000

This paper focuses on the development of a fashion design educational program that will foster the talent and aesthetic consciousness of fashion design students. The goal of progressive educational methods with cutting edge technology is to elevate educational efficiency, and ultimately rear creative designers. To fulfill its objective, this paper presents a courseware program on fashion design education utilizing hyper media that include animation, photographs, pictures, sounds and characters. By the utilization of such comprehensive source of information media, a hypermedia courseware was developed for elementary education in fashion design with the following conclusions : 1. The program enables the students to customize their fashion design education. The students of fashion design education programs are able to choose and adjust their own programs to suit their requirements and intellectual level. 2. The program effectively motivates. Much like a constant sequence of various images on a screen that can provoke profound heart-felt emotions and inspire creativity, the program can stimulate and motivate the students. 3. The program provides a consistent education. To advance the overall quality of fashion design education, the problem of dissonance in educational content should be resolved and possible individual errors in delivery rectified. The present program will solve such problems, and establish coherent standards that will withstand the test of time regardless of time or place. 4. The program is cost effective. Since the present program frees the teacher from the time consuming drudgery of preparing various texts and lesson plans, have the materials delivered and handled, it reduces the time and cost previously required. 5. The program has the capability to be upgraded. The accumulated know-how of teachers and the total experience of the program can be linked with other programs for limitless expansion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.1003-1016
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to reorganize any rusty image including natural modeling characteristic presented from the natural phenomenon to certain patterns in order to create the fashion design that are valued in the expansion of independently expressional area and modeling art. As a method for research, the author analyzed the concept and characteristic for rust with a base of theoretical background by the documental research and realistic consideration, analyzed its modeling characteristic through domestic and overseas pictures, and e-documents as data, inspected the modeling activities of various categories that various images were adapted related to rust, looked into the concept of Digital Textile Printing and its producing procedure as an expressional method, and analyzed the examples of modern dress and its ornament making use of Digital Textile Printing. The conclusions of this study are as below. First, the rust occurred due to the natural phenomenon is the bond with different material like metal, each unique modeling characteristic occurs and harmony of various patterns has abundant aesthetic value. Second, the author could endowed sensible characteristic and speciality with works and could produce creative fashion design that painting, abstractive pattern and harmony of unique sense of colors are significant by using the image of rust, Third, to emphasize natural feeling of rust, the author could develop creative design that simple silhouette and impressive pattern look significant by reorganizing and applying rust according to repetition, increment, rhythm, contract, emphasis and harmony. Fourth, Digital Textile Printing method is used to induce visual effect by the expression of feels of rust, and the author could express the natural patterns, delicate expression for the feels of a material and unique design of emotion.

• 복식
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.76-97
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to review the influence of Ukiyo-e on the design of European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century and the expression of the design of Kosode design in Edo-era. We collected data from the actual study of visiting Museums and other theories and visual materials through literature review. Then, we analyzed the data. The result came out that Ukiyo-e, which is the genre painting of Edo-era, provided the new vision and the new way of expression to the European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century. In the same way, the result also indicated that Ukiyo-e similarly influenced on the design of Kosode. For example, the study showed that the patterns of Kosode, such as flower, bridge, fun, wave, Lotus flower, stripe, oval, plaid, were used in the works of European artists in the $19^{th}$ century. The Ukiyo-e styles include Kan Bun style, Dan-Gawari style, Back facing style, Two-Section Segmentation style, and Folding screen style, with the identity of Japan and Japanese unique nature and landscapes. Thus, this study proved the design of Kosode to be the frontier of both European and Japanese arts, by examining Ukioyo-e's plastic characteristics, its composition & arrangements, and its subjects & objects which were samely revealed in Kosode design and European Art in nineteenth century.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• 복식
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• 제61권8호
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• pp.18-31
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• 2011

Gianni Versace was a designer who established his unique fashion world by thinking creatively and using rich design sources. The purpose of this study is to present designers a methodology for creative and characteristic design development by searching Gianni Versace's idea source for fashion design. As a method of the study, visual and textual data were investigated for Versace's fashion and design source especially focusing on those elements that inspired him. Versace was born in the southern area of Italy in 1946. Ever since his childhood, he had a lot of experience with clothes because his mother was a dressmaker. His first collection was made in 1978, and Versace became one of the most famous fashion designers in the world within 20 years. He used a wide range of design sources such as history, culture, and art and created his design world with it. He focused on four important epochs. They were classicism, Byzantium, the eighteenth century centering on Baroque, and the 1920s and 1930s centering on Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Gres. Among cultural elements, costume design for ballet and opera and rock 'n' roll music inspired him greatly. Also, Pop art and various paintings such as Chagall's and Delaunay's had a huge effect on Versace. With these elements, he created a bold and unique coordination of style by mixing & matching history, genre, material, and style into his design. Thus he completed an extraordinary and original fashion style by emphasizing on decorative and glamorous points and changing a way of thinking.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2012

This study focuses on looking at the influence of silhouette in the 1930s on fabric pattern design by comprehending how differently flower-pattern design were found according to clothing silhouette. The period scope of research was limited to 1930s, and the research object was set as the flower patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion and the women's daily apparel as well as the clothes for sports and leisure activities. Based on the above research scope, the researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1930s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. A glance at the women's clothing in the 1930s reveals that they emphasized something inactive, elegant, feminine and that great popularity was given to feminine silhouette that closely fitted the body and long and slim, as skirts became longer and longer. Like this, silhouette refused traditional methods in the technique of expressing flower patterns that were on-trend in that period, pursued the freedom of line and form, used shadowing technique by means of free pens and brushes and the effect of watercolors. It also arranged in a semitransparent way and painted contours alone, too. Flower patterns fell into two categories: amorphous abstract patterns and standardized abstract patterns. The patterns expressed themselves, divided into small-scale irregular patterns and abstract geometric patterns that filled the entire textile.