• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1582-1594
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the value of form in fashion design by developing a new perspective of design appreciation. By examining and modifying the theories of Wolfflin and Belong, this paper tries to of for a new perspective for analyzing the characteristics of form in fashion designers' works. The three new perspective, Flat & Rounded, Closed & Opened and Part & Whole, can be used to analyze the formative aesthetic character of Vionnet's and Dior's works. Ten of Vionnet's and eleven of Dior's representative works selected and applied Delong's visual priority diagram to analyze their character. Vionnet and Dior, emphasized form and construction in their design and applied geometric shapes in their works. The main differences between Vionnet and Dior is that Vionnet's work transforms from geometric shapes in 2-dimentional space to drapery shapes in 3-dimensional space, Dior's work displays geometric shapes in 3-dimensional space. Vionnet created new formative art through the relationship between the clothes and human body. Vionnet's work has distinctively different qualities depending on whether the space is 2-dimensional or 3-dimensional showing transposition of form. In 2-dimensional space, Vionnet's works consist of triangles, rectangles and circles which are 'flat' and 'closed' in quality. These transform to solid forms by draping bias fabrics, which have a 'rounded' and 'open' quality. Dior tended to show artificial form rather than the natural lines of the body which is very different with Vionnet. Dior created clothes by using solid geometric form such as spheres, prisms, cylinders, pyramids and cubes in 3-dimensional space, which were visualized through constructive technique such as dart manipulation, boning, gathering, tucking, pleating, shirring and layering. Dior's works have their own form which does not relate with body shape. So his Works have a 'rounded' and 'closed' quality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1727-1738
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• 2002

세계화, 국제화, 개방화 시대에 살고 있는 우리가 통과의례나 전통 명절과 같은 특별한 행사에 의례복으로 한복을 애용하는 것은 한복이 한국의 문화적 이미지를 강하게 간직하고 있는 한국적 조형물 중의 하나이기 때문이다. 더우기 의례복은 특별한 행사 자체를 위해 착용되었던 만큼 당시대의 내 적 가치를 가장 현저하게 표출하고 있는 복식으로 인정 할 수 있기 때문이다. 본 연구의 목적은 시대 적으로 현대 전통 한복의 기본 형 식을 제공한 조선시대와 그 이후의 복식 중에서 특히 분명한 착용동기와 목적, 복식을 통해 나타내고자 하는 상징성 등을 함축하고 있는 아동용 의례복을 대상으로 복식의 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재 등의 조형 요소를 고찰하는 것이다. 또한 양식적 특성을 살펴보고, 그러한 조형적 특성을 형성시킨 당시대의 사상적 가치를 추론해 보는 것이다. 구체 적인 연구 방법은 먼저 관련된 문헌 고찰을 통한 이론적 배경을 토대로 하여 아동용 의례복의 범주를 설정하고 현재 보전중인 실물과 또는 사진, 풍속화에 나타난 복식 자료들을 수집하였다. 그리고 당시대의 사상적 배경에 대한 고찰을 병행하여 이들에 내재된 문화적 가치를 추출해 보았다. 연구 결과 양식적 특징으로는 남아의 두루마기나 전복 그리고 쓰개류 등에서 기능성을 고려한 변형적 양식이 나타나고 있었다. 색채 역시 음양 보색이나, 오행색을 바탕으로 한 기본색의 구성 이외 에도 소매나 섶에 응용된 색의 배열이나 맞깃 전복의 깃에 나타난 색의 조화는 다양한 색의 조형미를 표현하고 있었다. 특히 색동 등에 나타난 오행색의 배열, 안감과 겉감, 상의와 하의, 외의와 내의에 사용된 색의 조화는 미의식에 관한 문화적 가치를 추론해 볼 수 있다. 더우기 장식 표현에 주로 쓰인 자연물 문양이나 글자 문양은 당시의 지배 사상이 지향하는 덕목 이외에도 전통적으로 내재된 수명과 복록, 부귀와 영화에 대한 내적 가치들을 반영하는 조형적 상징들이라 할 수 있다. 소재는 비교적 계절을 고려하여 사용되고 있었지만 의례적 성격을 지닌 외의나 쓰개류의 경우 계절적 구분을 고려하지 않은 경우도 많이 나타나고 있었다. 장신구의 경우는 많이 사용되는 것은 아니나 역시 상징적 인 가치를 표현하는 실물들을 미적으로 재구성한 사례들이 나타나고 있었다. 이상의 연구를 통해 아동용 전통 의례복은 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재, 장신구 등에서 양식의 다양성과 변형들을 알 수 있었다. 또한 적극적인 내적 가치의 상징들을 복식을 통해 표현하고 있었음을 알 수 있었다. 현대 복식의 디자인에 있어 아동용 의례복에 나타난 창조적인 양식의 변형과 다양성 그리고 복식을 통한 내적 가치의 반영 등이 현대 사회와 조화를 이룬 실질적인 복식 디자인 제시 및 창작에 작은 영감으로 작용하길 바란다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.357-360
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• 2002

직물의 질감을 객관화시키는 연구는 고부가가치의 의류제품을 생산하고 판매하는데 매우 중요한 요소이다. 질감은 직물의 역학적 성질과 표면상태에 따라 좌우되며, 이의 측정방법 중에서 KES-F system이 가장 객관화되어 있다. KES-F system을 이용한 표면 거칠기 측정방법은 피아노선을 굴곡 시켜 일정한 힘을 가한 상태에서 직물의 표면을 문질러 측정하므로 직물의 표면을 문질러 측정하므로 직물 표면의 잔털이 눌려진 상태여서 질감해석을 위한 정확한 측정이 어렵다. 따라서 우리는 기하학적인 직물 표면의 거칠기를 표면의 변형없이 측정 가능한 레이저 센서를 사용하였다. 한편 직물의 주로 경사ㆍ위사로 짜여져 있어 이방성 성질을 가지고 있으므로 직물을 3방향으로 측정하여 해석하였다. 측정된 신호는 FET를 이용하여 일정한 주기의 표면형태를 구하고, 표면 높낮이의 평균, 최저값과 최고값을 구하여 표면의 특성을 얻었다. 직물 표면에 존재하는 잔털은 영상처리장치를 이용하여 양을 측정하였으며 표면의 거칠기 측정결과와 비교 분석하여 레이저 센서를 이용한 비접촉식 측정방법의 오차분석 및 표면 특징을 해석하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Information Science Society Conference
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• 2002.10d
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• pp.418-420
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• 2002

980년대로부터 컴퓨터 그래픽스 분야에서 의상의 자연스러운 움직임을 생성하기 위한 연구가 계속되어 왔다. 유한요소 연속체 모델, 질량-스프링 모델과 같은 물리학적 모델이 등장하고, 수치적 적분법과 정확한 충돌 검사 및 반응처리를 접목하여 그럴듯한 옷감의 움직임을 얻을 수 있게 되었다. 그러나 이들 연구는 대개 표준적 모양 변형을 다루었기에, 두께, 질감, 빳빳한 정도 등 소재의 특성에 따른 차이를 묘사할 수 없었다. 본 논문에서는 의류학을 통해 연구되어온 직물들의 소재특성을 조사분석하고, 시뮬레이션 된 가상 옷감과 실제 옷감의 시각적 유사성 평가를 통한 직물들의 특성 파라미터 추출법을 제안하고 실험하였다. 그 결과 대표적인 옷감 종류에 따라 구별되는 애니메이션 패턴을 생성 할 수 있었다.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.117-126
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• 2011

This study investigates the physical properties and manufacturing method of shape memory fabric for emotional garment made by polypropylene. For this purpose, polypropylene(PP) POY and SDY were texturized using low temperature and constant length heat treatment texturing technologies, respectively. The shape memory fabrics made using these texturized PP yarns were woven with two kinds of PET and PTT shape memory yarns on the air-jet loom and the various physical properties of four kinds of shape memory fabrics were measured and discussed. The tenacity and breaking strain of PP texturized yarns treated by low temperature and constant length heat treatment showed high weaving efficiency and the wet thermal shrinkage of PP textured yarns was shown less than 1.5%, dry thermal shrinkage was ranged between 3% and 5%, which means thermal stability compared to the PTT textured yarn with high thermal shrinkage, 5~8%. The shape memory characteristics of PP shape memory fabrics measured by Toray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric. The heat keeping property of the PP shape memory fabric showed 56% higher value than that of PTT shape memory fabric. The water repellency of PP shape memory fabric measured by spray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric treated with water repellent agent. Especially, shape memory properties of PP shape memory fabric measured by 3-D image and camera measurement methods showed similar characteristics to the PTT shape memory fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.975-982
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• 1996

This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properites in denim fabrics for slacks during repeated shear and tensile deformation by analysing the change in the basic dynamic properties of fabrics on the basic of experiments to obtain the basic data necessary to measure their fatigue. In addition, this study was carried out by allowing these denim fabrics at market to go through the repeated deformation under such different loads as 500 gf/cm2 and 1000 gf/cm2 by using a simulated fatigue tester, by calculating both dynamic properties and hand value (HV) of these fabrics with KES-F system and then by obtaining the THV through these calculated properties. The results are as follows: 1 The fatigue phenomenon of dynamic properties was remarkably shown by the repeated shear and tensile deformation, while the increase of hysterical plastic substances was also remarkable in these shearing and bending properties. 2. The elasticity values of tensile, bending and compression properties, such as, B and G were reduced: whereas RT and RC values increased. It was shown, then, that those fabrics lost their elasticity and became flexible and soft with the increase of fatigue. 3. The fatigue phenomenon of hand value also showed that those fabrics became soft in relation with the change of all dynamic properties, and that their performance was also change to flexible hand value. 4. TRhe degree of fatigue was also shown by the loads given to the repeated deformation. It was shown that the fatigue was higher for the tensile load of 1000 gf/cm3 than did the standard load of 500 gf/cm3 It is necessary, therefore, to consider the load in accordance with their usage when examining the fatigue phenomenon with respect to the dynamic properties of clothing materials. 5. The loads were nearly not influenced by the change in the general hand value tended to show a little of increase with the increase of fatigue, Based on those results, it seems that the fatigue phenomonon is related to the loads given to the repeated deformation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.458-467
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• 2017

There is increased interest in clothes dryers and garments made of spandex-blend woven fabrics; however, there is limited information available for the laundering and drying these clothes. This study investigates the effects of washing and drying on shrinkage, skewness, and wrinkle for woven fabrics with and without spandex. When spandex with good elastic recovery was blended, the deformed shape from washing and drying improved skewness and wrinkle by easily returning to its original shape. However, these properties had a negative effect on shrinkage in terms of length and area change. When the influence of clothes maintenance was classified, the drying process had the biggest influence of 58%, followed by spinning-rinsingwashing. Tumble drying, in which the fabric is exposed to mechanical force and heat for a long period, had more negative effects on the dimensional stability than line drying. The spandex blend had the effect of preventing skewness and wrinkle in garments, but it was also shown to accelerate shrinkage by garment maintenance cycles. It was important to control drying in order to reduce shrinkage during the maintenance process; consequently, this had the greatest influence on the dimensional stability of fabrics. Therefore, line drying was more advantageous for spandex-blend fabrics than tumble drying in terms of management for shrinkage, skewness, and wrinkle.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.114-121
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• 2010

Denim is one of the most frequently used fabrics for blue jeans. After washing denim fabric frequently changes its size and color. Salespersons recommended that after purchasing blue jeans customers should dry clean them once before washing. The aim of this study was to investigate to what degree washing with a household washing machine and dry cleaning affected the dimensions and the color of denim fabric. The denim fabric shrank greatly after the first laundering in warp direction regardless of whether it had been dry-cleaned or not. However, it shrank little from the second to the tenth laundering and after each number of dry cleanings. The thickness of the denim changed in the same way as the shrinkage occurred when the number of launderings or dry-cleanings increased. Although the indigo came out of the denim into washing liquor, both of the $L^*$ values and the $b^*$ values of the laundered and the dry-cleaned denim fabrics were lower than those of the control fabric. Darkening of the fabric after washing attributed to the shrinkage in warp; specifically the deep-blue warp yarns more spaced on the fabric face and the back. The $L^*$ and $b^*$ values of the dry-cleaned fabric decreased less than those of the laundered. The value of $a^*$ increased much less than the other values. Staining of the white cotton fabric laundered with the denim fabrics became less as the number of launderings increased. The degree of staining from the dry-cleaned denim was much lower than that of the laundered fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1168-1175
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• 2005

Clothing pressure has close relation with clothing comfort and depends on the pattern and properties of textile fabrics. Choosing a suitable clothing pressure is an essential factor for designing functional clothing such as the foundation for reshaping of a body contour or medical items for bum patient, and etc. However, it is hard to measure pressure values at the curved surface of a human body correctly. Recently, an air pack type pressure sensor, which has relatively excellent performance has been used to measure clothing pressure, however, it is still inconvenient to apply because it is a contact- type sensor. Therefore, in this paper, we suggest an indirect method that can measure clothing pressure without touching the subject by improving the equation of Kirk and Ibrahim (1966). However, confusions have been occurred when someone use the equation since the definition of parameters are somewhat vague. Furthermore, the estimated clothing pressure obtained by the previous method are quite different from the real values because this method does not consider the 3D effect of a human body and property changes of a transformed fabric. In this paper, the direction of principal stress and the radius of curvature in the principal direction were searched in the 3D image of the deformed girdle to get more accurate clothing pressure. The estimated clothing pressure was verified by comparing the result of the air pack type pressure sensor. It was found that the accuracy of the pressure estimation was improved by considering the 3D curvature of human body and the directional characteristics of textile fabrics.