• 복식
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• 제65권3호
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• pp.131-150
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• 2015

This article studied the procedures and items used in royal princess weddings by examining "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)" which describes Princess Hwasun(和順翁主, 1720-1758)'s wedding in 1732. This was the first wedding by a princess during King Yeongjo(英祖)'s reign. Preparation for the wedding was made based on the previous weddings of royal princesses, but it did not follow the old tradition. The wedding costs were cut down, and it was done in a simpler way than before. However, the simplification of elaborate wedding outfits were not part of this change as ceremonial robes such as No-ui(露衣), Jangsam(長衫) and Chopo(綃袍) were used without much alteration. The wedding ceremony of Princess Hwasun shows the transition process from the royal princess wedding ceremony traditions and rituals in the late 17th century to "Gukhonjeongrye", which emerged and became solidified as a new social norm in the 18th century. A legitimate royal princess and a de facto princess from King's concubine were hardly different when it came to their royal outfitting but the disparity in social status between the two was found in the materials used to make clothes for their respective husbands. Princess Hwasun's wedding procedure shown in "Garyedeungrok" is similar to that of "Gukjo-orye-ui(國朝五禮儀)": Napchae(納采), Nappye(納幣), Chinyeong(親迎), Dongroe(同牢), Hyeongugo(見舅姑), Hyeonsadang(見祠堂), and Seojohyeon(壻朝見). But "Garyedeungrok" deals with the procedures of Gantaek(揀擇), Buma-guanrye(駙馬冠禮), and Seonon(宣醞), which are not included in "Gukjo-orye-ui", and also with the process of preparation for wedding items and the information of related people. However, it is hard to learn about its specific shapes and features because it is often restricted to lists such as a list of clothing. Collecting new materials and an in-depth and succeeding study are required in the future.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.162-179
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• 2016

This study examined the 17th century wedding ceremonies of princes and princesses recorded in the "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)". The Joseon dynasty royal weddings were held outside the palace, so it could have influenced wedding ceremonies of commoners. Royal weddings for princes and princesses were considered to be on a level between that of a king and commoners. Wedding procedure of princes and princesses was carried out under the leadership of the royal family who officiated at a marriage with the king's approval. In addition, kindred of the king and high-ranking officials participated as the maid of honor in the wedding parade. This was completely different between the royal wedding and the scholar-gentry ones. A difference between the prince and the princess was that the princess paid her respect to the shrine of the house of her groom after the wedding ceremony. However, there was no process for the prince's bride. There also existed a wide disparity in the wedding goods of princes and princesses. The prince and the king's son-in-law both held a wedding ceremony to wear Chopo, but there was a difference in decoration or quantity of Danlyeong(團領) Cheollik(帖裏) Hoseul(護膝) belts. Only princes were allowed to use the ornamental knife and the embroidered pouch. While both the princess and prince's wife wore No-ui(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫) as the wedding clothes, there was discrimination of position in terms of hair decoration, Hwalhansam(闊汗衫), skirt, Hosu(胡袖) and Ni-ui(裏衣). There was also a difference of quantity of Jeogori and skirts, as well as various styles of gold decorations in order to distinguish the Gongju(daughter of the king) and the Gunju (daughter of the crown prince)'s position.