• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.97-108
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• 2005

Jacqueline Kennedy was one of first lady in America and made influence on the fashion of the woman at that time. She made the first American fashion style. Jacqueline became a prominent model and style-setter in fashion world. She created peculiar fashion style which is called 'Jacky style' and her fashion power of influence appears in the present time. At that time, Haute Couture of France had led the world fashion, however since Jacqueline style came into fashion, American beauty and elegance was introduced to other countries. This study reviews the representative fashion item of Jacqueline Kennedy who was one of the fashion leader in the world. The result to appear in her style is follows. First, Jacqueline could express the young fashion that young people wanted a progressive and new thing because she was much younger than their predecessors. Second, she made her image bright and young, so she became a representative person who expressed 'changing America women'. She created a new appearance which is very simple in design, practical in function and elegant and it is turned into the typical style of American high fashion. Finally, through Jacqueline's fashion, not only she made the image of America upper classes that is very elegant and grace without dependence on the fashion of France, but also she is leading one of parts at a fashion style the present time. Since then, the fashion of America could become the center of a world fashion by Jacqueline. Important thing is that she wore suitable cloths as a first lady who was a outstanding fashion leader.