• Title/Summary/Keyword: 염색업자

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Dye Supply and Demand System and Type of Dyer in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대의 염료 수급 체계와 염색 수공업자 유형)

  • Kim, Soon-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.38 no.5
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    • pp.755-768
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    • 2014
  • This study explores the situation of domestic production and import of dyes as well as type of dye supplier and type of dyer in the Joseon Dynasty based on an analysis of relevant documents. The findings are as follows. Many kinds of natural dyes and natural mordant were produced in the Joseon Dynasty. Some were imported from other countries when in short supply or for diplomatic reasons. As the government organization in charge of the dyes supply and demand, the Jeyonggam was cooperated with the Gongin merchants. As private merchants, there existed Hwapijeon merchants and Cheongramgye merchants. Cheongramgye merchants were both the producer and the seller of indigo sediment. There existed two types of dyers, such as government-operated dyers and private dyers. The Yeomjang (master dyers) and Yeommo (female dyers) were subjugated to government departments in the early part of Joseon Dynasty, but gradually allowed to pursue self-profit. The Yeomga was the private dye house that existed in the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. Ladies and female servants were also allowed to dye for family use or to help in livelihoods. Jeonyeomga was a branch specialized in indigo dyeing. Lastly, the Yoemgye were the merchants of dyed paper and textiles as well as dyers.

Dyes and Dyeing in Korea, from 1876 to 1910 (개화기의 염료와 염색업에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Soon-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.9
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    • pp.77-94
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    • 2010
  • It was the era, from 1876 to 1910, that some dramatic changes, including an influx of foreign dyes and the beginning of the modern dyeing manufacture, happened in Korea. This paper explores what dyes were sold in the market in this period, who was the main seller of the goods, and how the dyers produced their products. A wide range of natural dye stuffs coexisted with the various kinds of aniline dyes, alizarin dye and synthetic indigo in the market. Coloring materials had been sold by hwapi-jeon, a group of official merchants who acquired a privilege of monopoly from the government. However, the dyes were also traded by sang-jeon and yakguk merchants in the nineteenth century. Most of the synthetic dyes sold in Korea were produced in Germany or in Japan later, and imported in large amount by Chinese, Japanese and German merchants. Yet there also existed Korean merchants and peddlers who sold the goods to the local consumers. Dyers were male and female who belonged to the middle class. They received the orders and payments from the government or merchants. Not only did they dye textiles, threads, cotton, paper and leather, but they also redyed clothes. Indigo dyers were differentiated from other dyers. Modern dyeing manufacture, which was presumably forced to keep pace with the productivity of the weaving process, appeared in the 1900s. It was a branch of the modern weaving manufacture.

A Study on Textile Design of William Morris (월리엄 모리스의 텍스타일 디자인에 관한 연구)

  • 이경희
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.163-174
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    • 2001
  • William Morris(1834-1896) was the most versatile and talented of all British nineteenth century polymaths. Since his death over one hundred years ago his achievements as an artist, designer, manufacturer, shop-keeper, poet, author, publisher, printer, collector, teacher, conservationist, political activist and environmentalist have influenced the lives and work of people throughout the world. Moris is now best known for his attractive and colorful patterns. The decorating firm of Morris, Marshall, Fault & Company(Morris & Company after 1875) was established in 1861. Over the years it produced works, ranging from stained·glass windows and furniture to tapestries, carpets and printed and woven fabrics, that had great influence on the course of British design. His earliest experiments with the craft were amateurishly worked embroideries made for his own use. Before long, Morris began to produce textiles on a more commercial basis. In order to control production properly, Morris set about learning the various textiles techniques, first dyeing and blockprinting, hand-loom jacquard and eventually, carpet and tapestry weaving. This extraordinary involvement with the practical side of manufacture separated Morris from all other designers of his time and contributed in no small way to his success. Morris's designs for textiles, embroidery, dyeing, woven, carpet and tapestry were commercially produced, that are most universally admired and frequently copied today. These have a timeless quality arising from the designers respect for and knowledge of the technique. Of equal importance was his love of nature, evidence of which can be seen in even the smallest details of each of his patterns.

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MCC의 부유부상 효율에 미치는 MCC의 표면에너지와 액상의 표면장력의 영향에 대한 기초연구

  • Lee, Hak-Rae;Lee, Jin-Hui;Park, Il;Lee, Yong-Min;Han, Sin-Ho;Jo, Jung-Yeon
    • Proceedings of the Korea Technical Association of the Pulp and Paper Industry Conference
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    • 2001.11a
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    • pp.20-20
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    • 2001
  • 우리나라 제지산업은 화학펼프의 80%를 수입에 의존하고 었으나 고지회수율 및 이용율이 세계적으로 볼 때 매우 높은 환경친화적 산업이다. 고지 재활용 공정 중에 서 가장 핵심적인 공정인 부유부상 공정은 고상계의 표면특성 차이를 이용하여 소수성 의 잉크업자를 기포에 부착시켜 부상을 통하여 제거하는 공정이다. 고지 사용의 고도화 를 위해서는 부유부상 공정의 효율 증대가 절실히 요구되고 있다. 또한 부유부상 공정 의 핵심적인 인자로 부유부상을 통하여 제거되는 고형물질의 표면 특성 특히 소수화도 가 중요하다는 것은 보고된 바 있으나 부유부상에 필요한 표면 특성의 존재 여부와 표 면 에너지와 부유부상 효율의 관계 등에 관한 기본적인 연구가 더욱 필요한 실정이다. 이에 본 연구에서는 부유부상 공정을 기초과학적 측면에서 규명하기 위해 마 이 크로 크리 스탈린 셀룰로오스(Microcrystalline cellulose: MCC)를 모델 물질로 사용하 고 이들의 표면특성을 접촉각 측정을 통하여 평가하였다. 친수성의 표면 특성을 지닌 M MCC의 표면 특성을 소수성으로 바꾸기 위하여 AKD(alkyl ketene dimer)의 함량별로 사이징 처리하여 소수성을 지닌 잉크를 모벨링 하고 친수성 MCC를 염색시약을 이용 하여 흑색으로 염색함으로써 소수화 된 MCC와의 색차를 두어 섬유를 모델링 하였다. 이렇게 제조된 MCC의 소수화 정도를 평가하기 위하여 분말상태인 MCC를 pellet으로 제조하여 각기 다른 표면장력과 표변특성을 지난 용액을 이용하여 Advancing Contact A Angle을 측정하고 다양한 방법으로 이를 분석하여 시료의 표면에너지를 평가하였다 그 리고 부유부상 셀내의 액상의 이온강도와 표면장력 등 화학적인 인자에 의한 부유부상 분리효과를 평가하였다.있었다 (그림 2). 칼렌다는 종이를 높은 전단력과 압축력으로 변형시키는데 비해 도침은 단순히 압축 압력만을 종이에 가하는 것이 다르다고 볼 수 있는데, 라 이너지와 백상지가 같은 조건하에서 왜 이러한 큰 차이를 보이는 이유를 아직 알수 없다.해 동일한 공정 데이터들올 이용하여 보편적으로 사용하는 통계기법 중의 하나인 주성분회귀분석을 실시하였다. 주성분 분석은 여러 개의 반응변수에 대하여 얻어진 다변량 자료의 다차원적인 변 수들을 축소, 요약하는 차원의 단순화와 더불어 서로 상관되어있는 반응변수들 상호간 의 복잡한 구조를 분석하는 기법이다. 본 발표에서는 공정 자료를 활용하여 인공신경망 과 주성분분석을 통해 공정 트러블의 발생에 영향 하는 인자들을 보다 현실적으로 추 정하고, 그 대책을 모색함으로써 이를 최소화할 수 있는 방안을 소개하고자 한다.금 빛 용사 둥과 같은 표면처리를 할 경우임의 소재 표면에 도금 및 용 사에 용이한 재료를 오버레이용접시킨 후 표면처리를 함으로써 보다 고품질의 표면층을 얻기위한 시도가 이루어지고 있다. 따라서 국내, 외의 오버레이 용접기술의 적용현황 및 대표적인 적용사례, 오버레이 용접기술 및 용접재료의 개발현황 둥을 중심으로 살펴봄으로서 아직 국내에서는 널리 알려지지 않은 본 기 술의 활용을 넓이고자 한다. within minimum time from beginning of the shutdown.및 12.36%, $101{\sim}200$일의 경우 12.78% 및 12.44%, 201일 이상의 경우 13.17% 및 11.30%로 201일 이상의 유기의 경우에만 대조구와 삭제 구간에 유의적인(p<0.05) 차이를 나타내었다.는 담수(淡水)에서 10%o의 해수(海水)로 이주된지 14일(日) 이후에 신장(腎臟)에서 수축된

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Chromosome Aberration in Peripheral Lymphocyte of Radiation Workers in Hospital (병원내 방사선작업종사자들의 염색체이상빈도)

  • Yi, Chun-Ja;Ha, Sung-Whan;Jung, Hae-Won
    • Journal of Radiation Protection and Research
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    • v.22 no.4
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    • pp.227-235
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    • 1997
  • Cytogenetic studies were performed in peripheral blood lymphocytes from hospital workers occupationally exposed to low doses of radiation (0.30 - 40.07mSv). The workers were divided into three groups according to their job area : 18 diagnostic radiology, 17 therapeutic radiology, and 16 nuclear medicine. The control group consisted of 49 non-radiation workers with no history of exposure to radiation. A higher percentage of cells with aberration(1.275%) was observed in the workers compared to the controls(0.677%) and the difference was statistically significant(p<0.001). The frequency of chromosomal aberration was $0.706{\times}10^{-2}$/cell in the exposed and $0.344{\times}10^{-2}$/cell in the control(p<0.05). Chromosomal exchange frequency was $0.083{\times}10^{-2}$/cell in the control vs $0.245{\times}10^{-2}$/cell in the workers. There was no evidence of significant increase of chromosome aberration related to age or to the duration of employment. The frequency of chromosomal exchange in workers of nuclear medicine was $0.313{\times}10^{-2}$/cell, which was significantly higher than in the control($0.083{\times}10^{-2}$/cell) or other working groups: therapeutic radiology($0.265{\times}10^{-2}$/cell), and diagnostic radiology($0.167{\times}10^{-2}$/cell). No dose-effect relation was found between chromosome aberration and total cumulative doses, recent 5 yr, recent 2 yr cumulative dose. But in case of last 1 yr cumulative dose, dose-dependant increase was observed when controls were considered(p<0.05). The radiation dose which workers have received was much lower than the maximum permissible dose, but there was a significant difference in the frequency of chromosome aberration between occupationally exposed workers and control. So, it is clear that chromosome aberration is a quite sensitive indicator of radiation exposure and it can be detected at very low dose level of occupational exposure.

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