• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.654-659
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• 2018

In this study, continuous long-term observation is implemented with an ocean radar. Ocean radar conducts remote observation (combined) with ground-based radars, which enable a series of simultaneous observations of an extensive range of the coast with high frequency. An ocean radar for continuous long-term observation is operated at Samcheok on the east coast of Korea. Samcheok experienced tsunami damage in recent years and is the location of a nuclear power plant. In order to examine the reliability of the ocean radar, a pressure-type wave gauge, ultrasonic wave gauge, and ocean buoy are installed for the purpose of data comparison and verification. The ocean radar used in this study is an array-type HF-RADAR named WERA (WavE RAdar). The analysis of the data obtained from continuous long-term observations showed that the radar observations were in agreement with more than 90% of the wave data collected within a 25 km range from the center of two sites. Less than 1% of the entire observation data was unmeasured by the time series analysis. As a result of comparing the radar data with the direct observations made by the wave gauge, it was inferred that the RMS deviation is less than 20cm and the correlation coefficient was in the range of 0.84 ~ 0.87. Moreover, supported by such observations, a comprehensive monitoring system is being developed to provide the public with real-time reports on waves and currents via the internet.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.292-302
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• 2016

In this study, shallow-water design waves are estimated for various return periods based on statistical analysis of extreme waves observed 13 years at four stations on the Korean east coast (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, Jinha). These values are compared with the results from SWAN simulation by using the deep water design waves conventionally used in Korea (KORDI, 2005). It was found that the simulated values of the shallow-water design waves are comparatively smaller than the values from the extreme value analysis, expecially below 30 years frequency, which implies possible under-estimation of the deep-water design waves on the Korean east coast.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.326-336
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• 2018

Continuous measurement of nearshore waves around Korea over long period is very demanding to setup plans for prevention of disasters of port and coastal structures. In this respect, a new web-based system, termed as WINK, was established, which collects nearshore wave data from Korea Meteorological Agency (KMA), Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA), and Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries (MOF) and provide them after quality control of the data. This paper describes technical aspects regarding collection and selection of the wave observation data, construction of wave hindcasting data, the methodology of quality control for the selected wave data, and overall process of building the web-based data providing system.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.88-99
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• 2019

This study presents the results of analysis for the wave data that were consecutively collected from February 2013 to November 2018 at the location of 1.6 km offshore from Namhangjin beach. The water depth at the location is 30.5 m and waves were measured by AWAC (Acoustic Wave And Current meter). By using wave-by-wave analysis and spectral analysis, wave heights and periods were evaluated and then the relationships between the quantities obtained by the two methods were proposed based on linear regression analysis. In addition, monthly and yearly variations of the significant wave height and period, and the peak wave direction were analyzed. Moreover, the relationship between the significant wave height and period was newly suggested. Variability and probability distribution of the significant wave period with respect to the significant wave height were also examined.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.109-119
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• 2012

Long-term wave observation was carried out near Busan New Port and the major wave characteristics were analyzed. At Busan New Port, waves from south direction were predominant throughout the year, while waves from the west, developed at the north sea of Geoje island, appeared almost the same frequency in winter season, showing apparent seasonal variation. During the observation period, the significant wave height was mostly less than 1 m, but it reached its maximum of 8.0 m when typhoon Maemi passed on September 2003. Also, the seasonal variation was hardly observed except July. In contrast, seasonal variation was apparent for the significant wave period, whose peak ranges 4~5 s in summer whereas about 3 s in winter. The largest significant wave period was 15.56 s, observed on June 2003. Meanwhile, the annual variation was negligible for mean wave direction as well as significant wave height and period. Further analysis of the wave data acquired for 5 years at 4.5 km south, in the south sea of Daejuk island, confirmed high correlation between the two observation points in summer and vice versa in winter.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.109-115
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• 2016

The trend in appearance of storm waves on the east coast of Korea was investigated based on long-term wave data observed at six different stations. At the four wave stations of KIOST (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, and Jinha), no notable trend was found during the observation period with respect to the annual average and maximum values of the significant wave height. In addition, the annual number of the appearance of storm waves showed decreasing trend at the three stations except Jinha, where slightly increasing trend of the quantity was recognized. In contrast, at Donghea ocean data buoy of KMA, abruptly increasing trend was found for the annual average and maximum of the significant wave height and for the annual number of the appearance of storm waves as well, demonstrating lack of consistency in the observation data from Donghea buoy of KMA.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.100-108
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• 2001

Along the shoreline a special treatment is required to simulate movement of periodic waves such as tsunami and tide because of continuous movement of shoreline as waves rise and recede. A moving boundary treatment is first proposed to track the movement of shoreline in this study. The treatment is then employed to obtain a maximum inundation area to be used for mitigation of coastal flooding. The obtained maximum inundation zone for a specific location is compared to that of available observed data. A reasonable agreement is observed.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.181-193
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• 2000

This paper presents the flow and the suspended sediment movement over ripples for oscillatory flows. A new numerical model system is developed, and applied to a laboratory experimental condition of regular waves and a fictitious condition of irregular waves. The flow field is obtained from a programme proposed by Kim et. al.(1994), which is a modified version of SOLA based on SMAC scheme. The sub-model solves the continuity and Reynolds momentum equations in the x-z plane. The wave orbital velocities, shear stresses, and pressure are all reasonably reproduced by the model. The model results on the vertical velocity component show good agreement with the measurements. The suspended sediment transport sub-model is newly set up to solve the advection-diffusion equation of suspended sediment using a split method, and involving a special shear entrainment from the whole ripple surface. The calculated suspended sediment concentrations for regular waves show reasonable agreement with measurements at Deltaflume. The model results for random waves show that the suspended sediment concentration is higher than those for regular waves and that the sediment diffuses higher than for regular waves with the significant wave height and the peak wave period of the irregular waves.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.39-48
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• 2021

The experiment of rip current at successive ends of breaking wave crests was conducted in a laboratory wave basin, and its time-varying evolution according to incident wave durations was observed by using ortho-rectified images. The experiment utilized the generation of a quasi nodal line of the honeycomb-pattern waves (i.e., intersecting wave trains) formed by out-of-phase motion of two piston-type wave makers arranged in the transverse direction, instead of the original honeycomb pattern waves which are generated when two wave trains propagate with slightly different wave directions. The particle moving distance and velocity caused by the rip current were measured by using the particle tracking technique. As a result, the rip current was survived for a while even without incident waves after its generation due to several successive ends of wave crests, and it moved the particles further out to sea.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.219-219
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• 2022

지구 온난화와 함께 발생하는 해수면 상승은 한반도의 해안지역을 비롯하여 울릉도 등 도서지역 전반에 걸쳐 진행 중이다. 또한 해수면의 온도 상승으로 인한 열대저기압의 생성 시 에너지 공급이 증가하며 연안으로 내습하는 파랑 내습 에너지가 커지게 된다. 경상북도 울릉군에 위치한 남양항은 최근 2019년 태풍 다나스 및 2020년 태풍 마이삭 등에 의해 고파랑 혹은 침수 피해가 발생하여 항 내에서는 물양장과 선박이 파괴되고 방파제가 전도되는 등의 피해가 속출하였다. 동해안의 태풍 내습, 지구 온난화와 저기압 발달에 의한 수위 상승 등과 같은 다양한 해양기후를 고려한 연안 구조물의 파랑 영향을 검토하는 것이 중요할 것으로 판단되었다. 기상청 태풍센터에서 제공하는 1979년부터 2020년까지 한반도 해역에 내습한 태풍 중 울릉도에 영향을 미친 태풍은 18개로 울릉도 인근에 영향을 준 내습 태풍을 10년 단위로 분석해 보면, 1980년대 3개, 1990년대 2개, 2000년대 8개, 2010년대 3개, 2020년 2개로 2000년대에 울릉도 영향권에 들어간 태풍이 가장 많았으며, 심해파 추산 기간 이후 2020년 1년 동안 울릉도 인근으로 마이삭, 하이선과 같은 2개의 태풍이 연속적으로 영향을 주었다. 울릉도에 영향을 미친 18개 태풍을 대상으로 일본 기상청(JMA)에서 제공하는 1시간 바람장을 이용하여 파랑 후측 수치 모의를 수행하였으며, 해양수산부와 기상청 관측 부이를 이용하여 파랑에 대한 정확도를 확보하였다. 고파랑 내습 시 연안에 조우하는 수위 조건은 파랑 에너지의 증가를 결정하게 되며, 항만 구조물의 설계에 적용되고 있는 약최고고조위 이상(4대분조의 최대 조위)의 최극조위 조건에서 해안 구조물에 월파 및 침수 피해를 주는 요인으로 작용할 수 있다. 이를 바탕으로 울릉도 남양항에서 폭풍 시 내습한 최극고조위(0.65m)와 IPCC 5차 보고서에 제시한 최악의 시나리오(RCP 8.5) 조건에서 울릉도에서 확인된 0.79 cm 상승고를 반영하여 범람위험평가를 광역에서의 계산 결과를 입력자료로 하여 준 3차원 비 정수압 파랑 변형 수치 모형인 MIKE 3 Wave를 사용하여 실험하였다. 해수면 상승에 의한 수위 상승고는 연안 파랑 증가에 영향을 주었으며 연안 구조물의 침수 피해에 영향을 줄 것으로 판단되었다. 월파 차단, 파랑 차폐의 목적으로 건설되는 구조물의 규모 및 천단고 등을 설정하는데 설계 수위의 선정은 중요하다. 수치 실험 결과를 바탕으로 방파제 및 호안의 범람 위험 평가를 수행하고 구조물 설계 시 이러한 해수면 상승고가 반영된 설계가 중요하다는 것을 위험 평가를 통해 확인할 수 있다.