• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.733-745
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• 2009

The contra-sexual phenomenon that is recently focused is one of the new factors, which is focused when explaining the life style of progressive woman's image and it is creating cultural category. Moreover, the contra sexual people that are rising as new consuming subjects are not simple primary consumers but their shopping culture and cultural tastes are giving effects to many people. Because of the tendency, marketer of consuming industry are making efforts to predict the changes of contra-sexual people's shopping habits and tastes. Therefore, it is necessary to grasp contra-sexual phenomenon and research the fashion design aiming at that in order to predict woman's fashion image in the future. Therefore, the study considered concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon and surveyed its example in the popular culture. And, the study analyzed the formative characteristic of contra-sexual fashion shown in the public cultures such as drama and movie. On the basis of the result, design was suggested by reflecting contra-sexual fashion characteristic under the concept of 'Urban Splendor'. From the results above, it was possible to grasp the concept and characteristic of contra-sexual phenomenon, which appeared as a trend and understand new woman's image and the fashion that has changed because of it. It is considered that the establishment of the foundation of contra-sexual phenomenon, which plays as an important variable in woman's fashion, fashion accessory, cosmetic and advertisement field but it is hard to clarify, by analyzing the work aiming at contra-sexual phenomenon will be helpful for predicting the change of woman's fashion in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.670-686
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delineate and analyze the expression of the kidult and its characteristics and thereby provide data to be used for fashion design in various manners as well as to suggest creative and varied possibilities of fashion design. As a way to study, the author of this paper organized the general terms, concepts and definitions concerning the kidult in the previous papers and journals. The data was collected from the collections represent the characteristics of kidult especially from 2006 to 2015. The results are as follows: Firstly, The characters stimulating the innocence of children were used the most for infantile expression. Parody used characters in the movie or famous logos. Deformation was used to create designs by way of distortion and deformation. Exaggeration thereby showing visually strong impression and inducing surprise and unexpectedness. Depaysement was useful to let us describe concepts and enhance our infinite creativity and interests about objects using surrealistic. Secondly, Infantile characteristics used the images of toys with infantile imagination and sense of humor. Fantasy introduced objects or expressed a dream-like feeling. Unexpectedness used two-faced ideas or conflicting ideas to express conflicts, collision and an interchange with heterogeneous things, avoiding the limit of size and the simplicity of materials. Parody used jocular expressions, satire and ironic expressions to express the original image in a fun manner. Exaggeration transformed changed the structure to restructure objects in a subjective and creative manner, thereby expressing creative patterns using various subject matters by way of special modeling or distortion and transformation.

• Archives of design research
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• v.19 no.1 s.63
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• pp.59-68
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• 2006

Scarf has played an important role not only as keeping warm of human body but also as accessory of clothes. These days with taking a growing interest of accessory, scarf had thrown off a subsidiary part and gradually had a leading place which guides the overall mode of fashion. Because scarf design of Korea does not get out of imitation step of foreign countries brands it is necessary to develop the scarf design which can show the cultural identity and originality of Korea in international society. Therefore in this study, I chose lotus flower patterns expressed on Buncheon pottery and Korean traditional patchwork cloth as the subject material of scarves design development, and my intention for this study is to develop scarves designs of Korean images by adding modern scenes. For that, first I researched lotus flower patterns expressed on Buncheon pottery and Korean traditional patchwork cloth. Among those materials, I selected to had been presented modern image. And by using computer design program of adobe illustrator 10.0 I designed the basic patterns of three types and developed the square scarves design and rectangle scarves design with those.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.14-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to come up with a perspective that can enhance the understanding about the mechanism of fashion change. The starting idea of this study is that fashion has changed according to the ideal body image of the specific society or individual. The theoretical framework about the ideal body image has been studied by the literatures on the subject and it is verified by the analysis of John Galliano & Martin Margiela's fashion works. The results are as follows. First, Galliano exposes the woman's body as a sexual symbol which is articulated by men's eyes. Margiela describes the woman's body as human being which doesn't highlight any sexual characteristics. Second, Galliano emphasizes the body conscious silhouette whereas Margiela perceives the body as a whole, rather than looks into each body part. Third, Galliano uses lots of decoration to make display luxurious. Margiela restrains himself from using decorations and tries to create images by interaction between the clothes and bodies. Forth, Galliano expresses the eroticism by accentuating eyes and lips with strong color cosmetics. Margiela's fashion is not dazzling with makeup. He even covers the face with fabrics. Aesthetics in all societies is articulated by their hidden social power groups, and then it has influence on taking shape of the ideal body image and the mainstream of fashion. But the innate characters of individuals offer challenges to the fashion majority. The tension between the social power and individual character makes and changes the fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.119-128
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the military look, which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the 1996 women's fashion. Military look is that imitates or reinterprets the Army uniform which is functionally useful. After World War 1 , military look appeared in the women's fashion which is functionable tailor suits style, ankle-length skirt, pants or boiler suits for work wear, overcoat against the cold, and there was an attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress. In the middle of World War II, there was a similiar circumstance in women's military fashion. There were functionable tailor suits, knee-length skirt, pants or siren suits for work wear. And the Utility Dress was nationally recommended. In addition, the regulations were introduced to control the materials and styles used for some clothes. In the 70s, as the resistance movement as counterculture began to wear Army look which was army-uniform or army caps with 'US ARMY' logo and badges, and became very popular among the youth. In the 90s, military look has got one of the fashionable fashion themes with revival of Neo- Hippie look. Not only street fashion but also high fashion designer selected the trend for '96A/W The characteristics of the military look are khaki colors or camouflage prints, epaulets, big outpockets with flap, golden buttons and army belt. As I examined, during the World War I and ll, women wore the military look because of shortage of goods and work or service, and it was recommended by government. Though the military look in 70s, began by the resistance movement, at least it became a popular fashion. Military look in 90s, does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents fashion trend and revival fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.577-584
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• 2005

The aims of this study are primary data offer to silver fashion enterprise. In order to deduce design from diverse needs of silver generation, this study is required expert knowledge. For this purpose, this study applied two rounded Delphi method in which 31 experts. As a result, the following findings were obtained; From the previous studies, we found the physical changes of women in silver generation; i.e. the size of their waist and abdomen gets larger, their breasts are sagging, their limbs are thinner, upper body is bending, their height and weight get shorter and lighter. Their choice criterion of design of clothing is hide their weak points in body, youthfulness, moderate, and fashion style. Youthful design but patterns should agree with their body line so that they should be easily fit and look young. They like a jacket and pants set best regardless of spring or summer and as upper garment, they like semi fit, as pants, they prefer straight line of ankle length, and as skirts, partial elastic band and pleats, and the length of the skirts just cover their knees. This pattern in choosing their clothes represents they consider functionality as well as the aesthetics. Their preferred color for spring is lt/pink, lt/violet lt/green for summer, white and blue. Their preferred materials are wool/poly/spandex and cotton/spandex for functionality for spring, and for summer, linen poly and cotton poly seersucker for cool feeling and stability. In both top and bottom item, solid pattern follows small one in their preference on patterns, which shows that they are in pursuit of an elegant style. Our research based on this survey tries to establish what the fashion design for the silver generation should take into consideration.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.101-110
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• 2014

In this study, we investigate characteristics of fall, requirements toward the impact protective clothing, design preferences, etc. to develop the fall impact protective clothing for the silver-aged women. Among the 242 women respondents aging 50s to 70s, 43% experienced the fall in recent 2 years. It is found that the fall mostly occurred in winter season and happened during the regular activities such as walking outside, going up and down stairs. Most of the respondents have no experience buying the impact protective clothing, but they expressed the fall impact protective clothing would help reducing the injury from falls. Moreover, the intention to purchase the impact protective clothing is increasing with an increasing target age. However, the respondents concerned with increasing volume and weight of clothing by the protecting pad inserted into the clothing. The respondents also claimed that the impact protecting clothing should not interfere with their regular physical activities. The survey showed that respondents preferred to embed the impact protective function in pants as a form of the protective clothing. For the design preferences on the pants, casual style and straight silhouette was preferred and stretch fabric was selected. The respondents preferred underwear made of cotton spandex blend with relaxed fit.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.515-527
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• 2014

This study is intended to develop the creative and high value-added products as well as the development of diversity for jump suit for the future by analyzing the trend and feature shown in jump suit in the modern fashion. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 351 work pieces on jump suit among those presented in the collection of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2006S/S to 2013F/W as well as literature review. The aesthetic features on suit jump design introduced in the modern fashion could be characterized as the following. First, both upper and lower garments are composed with a simple array of items and the stress was put on modernity feature through minimal expression technique. The feature of solid simplicity was also given with achromatic color or neutral monochrome. Second, the feminity image was emphasized with adoption of such highlighting items as detailed add-ons, tops, camisoles and blouses that stress the organically curved streamline including silhouette, material itself, crease and drape that enable the direct and indirect exposition of human body and the expression of smooth curve in human body. Third, jump suit revealed the multipurpose feature as item available for the diverse wear such as working habiliment, sports wear, uniform, office wear and evening wear, depending on the terms and conditions. Fourth, the deconstructive characteristic appeared through integration with various items, destruction of formative structure, non-structural shape, and ambiguity in wearing method.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.139-152
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• 2004

The main objective of this research is to investigate the color coordination types and their characteristics of contemporary female fashion by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i.e., cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2000 S/S to 2002/3 A/W. Through the review of various books and articles written on the subject, the color coordination types and their characteristics were categorized and defined. The data was collected by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 4,269 observations were made. These in turn were categorized into eight color coordination and three color tone categories through the content analysis. Frequency analysis was used to analyse the data. The findings are as follows; First of all, there were 8 observable color coordination categories in contemporary women's fashion. The most used color coordination was chromatic & achromatic color coordination. It was followed by chromatic identical, and then by achromatic identical color coordination. These three color coordinations were the majority, comprizing 73.4％ of the total. The rest were in the order of complementary, gradation, similarity, accent. And the most used tone type was contrasting tone and followed by similar and identical. Next, the analysis of each coordination categories shows that; The chromatic identical coordination focused on presenting its own unity or break it using the contrasting color tone. Meanwhile, the achromatic identical coordination project a clean and strong feeling through black and white combination or a subtle feeling through the different material combination. The chromatic & achromatic coordination showed strong colors and contrasting tones of clear and bright colors. Meanwhile, the characteristics of complementary coordinations are that these coordinations seem to free the colors and show the subtle changes in tones very clearly. The gradation coordination was used to create a cool and lively feeling. Next, the similarity coordination seems to create feminine and warm feeling by taking advantage of similar color feelings, often through the use of warm to warm, cool to cool color matching. Lastly, the accent coordination, through the use of contrasting tones emphasizes the differences in colors, while separation coordination mostly uses black and white on various color coordinations.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.7
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• pp.97-107
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• 2009

This study investigated the impact of long-term relationship orientation on emotional characteristic in fashion stores and relationship characteristic between middle-aged and senior women and salespeople. This study employed survey method with questionnaire. Data were collected from 579 women who were from the age of forty to seventy. The data were analyzed using statistic methods(SPSS 15.0 and Amos 5.0) such as frequency analysis, cronbach $\alpha$, exploratory factor analysis, second-order confirmatory factor analysis, confirmatory factor analysis and structural equation modelling. The findings of this study were concluded as follows; Firstly, the income significantly affected on emotional characteristics(p < 0.01), but had no significant effect on long-term relationship orientation(p < 0.05). The higher income, the more respondents exhibited positive attitude and sensitive emotional characteristics as a sense of sight, hearing, smell, tactile and feeling to salespeople in the fashion stores. The path of structural equation was implemented as income variables $\rightarrow$ emotional characteristics $\rightarrow$ (relationship with salespeople variables $\rightarrow$ )commitment $\rightarrow$ long-term relationship orientation which turned out to be statistically significant at the 95% confidence level. Secondly, senior group(55~70yrs) was more positive relationship with salespeople compared to middle-aged group(40~54yrs). The precondition of get satisfaction and feeling of being cared from the salespeople were critical for long-term relationship orientation. The path of structural equation was carried out as age variables $\rightarrow$ relationship with salespeople variables $\rightarrow$ commitment $\rightarrow$ long-term relationship orientation which turned out to be statistically significant at the 95% confidence level.