• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.947-954
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.71-82
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• 2016

As times change rapidly the lifestyle, personality, and values of men have changed diversely. Not only have preferences for men's clothing changed, men's fashion market has also grown, and novel, non-preexisting styles have come into place. Also, there are many studies on sensibility of women's fashion while studies on sensibility of men's fashion are insufficient. This study categorized common styles for men in their 20s into 7 different representative samples and investigated consumers' sensibility evaluations for each representative sample. Style 1 (suit), style 2 (rider jacket + skinny pants), style 3 (blouson + straight pants), style 4 (cardigan + half pants), style 5 (military jacket + straight pants), style 6 (loose fit jacket + skinny pants), and style 7 (baseball jumper + straight pants) were prepared in the evaluation questionnaire. The study compared male and female interest and knowledge of men's fashion, evaluated the sensibility difference depending on the men's fashion, analyzed whether there is a difference between preferred men's clothing and actual wearing of the clothing, and examined the preferred style in relation with the lifestyle. The results are as follows: First, men's fashion was diversified and subdivided, and interest and knowledge about men's fashion was greater for males than females. Second, sensibility of men's fashion had significant differences depending on the style, and it did not depend on genders. Third, there was a clear difference between the most favored style by the 20s and the actual style they commonly wear; the favored style and the actual worn style were consistent 66.1% of all the cases, inconsistent 33.9% of those. Style 3 had the highest preference and the actual wearing rate, and style 5 was the least preferred and worn. Fourth, the more extroverted lifestyle rather than introverted one, the more it was likely to prefer diverse styles.