• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.886-896
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• 2009

Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• no.11
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• pp.23-29
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• 1970

This experiment is to improve the wrinkle recovery (W.R.) of silk fabrics. The silk fabrics is creased very well, and the crease is the serious defection of it. This experiment is to improve the nature by use of formaldehyde on fabrics. The reagents used were HCl, CH$_3$COOH, CaC$_2$, HCHO, Na$_2$CO$_3$, NH$_4$OH, NaOH and NaHCO$_3$. The silk fabrics was treated, to compare 1 he influence of conditions, by varying the quantities of reagents and the temperature of solution, and the reaction time. The cotton fabrics and the viscose rayon were sunk with the silk at the same condition to be compared the influence. 1) Those of the most suitable temperature to improve for the better W.R. are 75$^{\circ}C$ for silk, 35-45$^{\circ}C$ for cotton, and no particular temperature under 75$^{\circ}C$ for viscose rayon. 2) The W.R. improvements after treated at the temperature of 1) were 11％ for silk and 33.4％ for cotton. 3) There are the best treating time for every fabrics. They were 60 to 90 min. for viscose rayon when HAC Ras used for solvent. It took, however, 60min. of the best time for silk, 120 min. for cotton, and 40 min. for viscose rayon when acetic anhydride instead of HAC was used. 4) It was possible to improve 16.6％ of W.R. for silk at the most suitable treating time, 25.0％ for cotton, and 13.3％ for viscose rayon. 5) Acetic anhydride was rather more effective to improve W.R. of both silk and viscose rayon than HAC. 6) Treating time was also shorter in case of using acetic anhydride than HAC. 7) The improvement of W.R. were 8.3％ for silk at the 10 to 14 ml. of HCHO the best volume, 21. 5％ for cotton at 18m!. of HCHO, and 70％ of for viscose rayon at 14 to 18ml. of HCHO. 8) The most effective quantity of HCI is 14 ml. for both silk and cotton. The W.R. improvement of silk was 22.2％, and that of cotton 19.5％. 9) The W.R. of 83.3％ the best for silk and 61. 6％ for cotton were gained when 4.2gr. of NaHCO$_3$ brings down the percent of W.R. for both silk and cotton. 10) The more NaOH and NH$_4$OH as neutralizing agents, the less effectivity of W.R. until the quantities of the reagents are reached to a special range which are 3. 3m!. for silk and 3.3-6.6 ml. for cotton, and then we can see the W.R. increasing as the quantities of reagents are increased. These facts were evident in case of silk and cotton. We can also see with this fact that the reminder of 〔OH$\^$-/〕 neutralizing 〔CH$\^$+/〕in solution makes it possible to treat formaldehyde on fabrics. 11) Low curing temperature was comparatively better for silk, and high temperature better for cotton. 12) The result of this experiment shows that the Improvement of W.R. for silk was possible to 94％ which means 22％ W.R. increase compared to the untreated silk. This effect also shows that the improvement to W '||'&'||' W (wash and wear) of silk will be possible.